who here has been surfing this week?

Discussion in 'All Discussions' started by Peajay4060, Jan 14, 2015.

  1. curl

    curl Well-Known Member

    96
    Apr 30, 2013
    Good fun for the early folks, long peeling rights in tropical water
     
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  2. beachbreak

    beachbreak Well-Known Member

    Apr 7, 2008
    There's been small surf here for over a week but the leg pain has me not going. I went once and did great for over an hour. Handful of good rides, one really good and really small on the 10' 50-50. First attempt surfing in 3 months. I cannot straighten out my leg to paddle or lie prone or sit on my board, so i just flop around like the biggest kook into position hop up last second and go, drag myself up to my feet and hope there is still some wave left by the time i am standing and surfing. This has not been easy for me to accept. I'm a shortboarder!
    Every once in a while a three times bigger actual wave pops up. Like i said it has been doing it all week but my pain is unreal. Like clenching my teeth in agony.
     
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  3. Betty

    Betty Well-Known Member

    Oct 14, 2012
    Holy Mackerel beachbreak! What the heck happened to your leg? I am taking inspiration from you. I bet you don’t look like a kook out there. I bet you look like an injured, ambitious SURFER who is not giving up on his dream to surf.
     
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  4. DosXX

    DosXX Well-Known Member

    Mar 2, 2013
    Man, what caused that? You may want to have it checked out. Wishing you a speedy recovery.
     
  5. CJsurf

    CJsurf Well-Known Member

    Apr 28, 2014
    Some fun little waves out there this morning.


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  6. Barry Cuda

    Barry Cuda Well-Known Member

    Nov 19, 2018
    If you have no recollection of an injury to cause the pain, and if you feel the pain is deep seated in your calves or thighs, I suggest you see an MD NOW!! A cause of such pain may be DVT (deep vein thrombosis) a leg clot. Get that attended to immediately as you do not want a clot to break away and end up in your lungs.
    I am worse casing it, yes. But better to be safe than sorry.
    Good luck and may good health be with you once you get that properly treated. Do NOT go to a chiro, or any non MD practitioner.....see a medical doctor.
     
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  7. antoine

    antoine Well-Known Member

    Mar 10, 2013
    Good looking out Barry,
     
    Betty likes this.
  8. beachbreak

    beachbreak Well-Known Member

    Apr 7, 2008
    I outlived my treatment on a big tumor in my leg 2013. Gallons of poison chemotherapy doxorucibin and adriamycin, then burn it to death with radiation, then surgery remove it with my entire femoris rectus quadriceps.
    Then 2017 more radiation higher up new deep upper thigh strange growing enhancement unable to biopsy or remove.

    Tried aspiration of unknown etiology hip effusion with sclerosis doxycycline one hour dwell time to no effect twice, first in april and then again in june, waiting on 3 months scan results had this week, pain management thinks it is nerve pain from all the tissue damage, which is very difficult to treat.
    Pain has increased since october, getting worse each month,
    and i try everything one step at a time, harvard, columbia, penn, md's,phd's.
    The professional biofreeze works a little.
    The new 1.8% ztlido 12-hour lidocaine patch works a little.
    The 1% ibuprofen topical gel works a little.
    Ibuprofen works but it is not good to take regularly.
    Now i am going with very low dose lyrica and building my way up it takes time to get the full effect.

    Waves were awful today but i got one great ride so at least i am surfing.

    Everyone is screaming at me to get medical marijuana, but i never saw anyone benefit from it in the '70's, and none of my manydoctors have mentioned it.
     
    Betty likes this.
  9. DosXX

    DosXX Well-Known Member

    Mar 2, 2013
    That's one hell of a tough road, Beachbreak. I appreciate you sharing that.
    Medicinal marijuana might be a consideration, but who am I to say? It's not the panacea many are promoting...much of which I think is just wishful thinking.
    One's attitude is so important. Good to hear you're still paddling out. Keep on charging!
     
  10. antoine

    antoine Well-Known Member

    Mar 10, 2013
    BB I second the words from XX Keep charging, you never know where you'll find some answers
     
  11. antoine

    antoine Well-Known Member

    Mar 10, 2013
  12. Peajay4060

    Peajay4060 Well-Known Member

    Nov 14, 2011
    What's happening? Don't usually post on a Sunday. But was amped about what I was listening to and may as well post up a couple of surfs.

    Summer mush really but spent Saturday longboarding, and sponging. Cool part was the deep tide pool on the other side of the bar. Taking off on boogies skimming over the bar into the pool was like a salt water slip and slide. The whole family was in on it.

    Checked a spot at dawn this morning. You're up high when looking at it and it looked like there is a small long period type line out there. It was pretty snotty. Too much wind to fish so I paddled out the LB and ended up surfing all by myself for a couple of hours. Nothing great but a I had fun. Although the wind swell was dominant there is definitely a smaller ground swell out there. You could feel it sucking off the bottom more. Those smaller waves had much better shape too. You could get in early, stay on the tail and fade your bottom turn. Then just up to the middle and fast trimming down a warped up line. Good tunes on the way out and an omelette with garden veggies for breakfast. My boys tying his shoes up as I type for a couple runs down the hill.

    Think we may have some death bombs coming in this week. Hope yous get yours.
    PJ
     
    Last edited: Jul 29, 2019
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  13. Betty

    Betty Well-Known Member

    Oct 14, 2012
    Today my husband brought me to the inlet and met up with my awesome crew of 9 to surf and celebrate the return and remarkable incidence of courage of one of the crew. There was a lot to plan for in terms of medical issues, transportation, and being sure the wheelchair would be available— the only feature not under my control. It all worked out perfectly!

    We had a nice sharing of muffins and talk before paddling out. I just love the socializing that goes on amongst our crew during a sesh. It really increases the vibe and stoke!

    Valhalla was also there!

    Lucky for us, the waves were clean, with some push, about knee to hip high waves And there was a super friendly vibe ion the line up as most of them were the usual locals. They know what I am up against, and I notice they clear the way for me to surf…so sweet…..Its so nice to feel so welcomed and encouraged!

    After a slow start of missed waves, and a lousy pop up, the wave got better as did I. I scored 4 really nice rides, good pop ups, was able to stand n the board the whole time, turn left, enjoy the floaty drop on one of the larger set waves. Boy I missed this!!!! IF this is my last sesh, I am satisfied!

    Science cannot understand how It is I can still surf. Who cares that it flummoxes science— it is a blessing I will take no questions asked. OF course, Science has also created an oasis of 5 hours of better function of legs, with a pill. So I am grateful to science.

    IT made me think of Barry and his fight to get back to surfing, and beachbreak (what was his other name?) at SI and his fight to surf with hideous pain.



    Surfing is the source of life.
     
  14. CJsurf

    CJsurf Well-Known Member

    Apr 28, 2014
    Was pretty good this morning:

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    67338094_10211364562988598_2969552796614918144_o.jpg

    67543840_10211364567388708_5670848769214644224_o.jpg
     
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  15. beachbreak

    beachbreak Well-Known Member

    Apr 7, 2008
     
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  16. Peajay4060

    Peajay4060 Well-Known Member

    Nov 14, 2011
    We shared the ocean today Betty. And for that I am most thankful.
     
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  17. Rob Gnarley

    Rob Gnarley Well-Known Member

    132
    Mar 27, 2012
    The waves were pretty fun this weekend. Scored some long period southern hemi swell. 19 second period sneaker sets with offshore winds and proper tide in the morning. 20190727_075605.jpg 20190728_075853.jpg
     
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  18. beachbreak

    beachbreak Well-Known Member

    Apr 7, 2008
    Took a beating and got thrashed about quite a bit but got a great wave for my efforts last night.
     
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