who here has been surfing this week?

Discussion in 'All Discussions' started by Peajay4060, Jan 14, 2015.

  1. Mitchell

    Mitchell Well-Known Member

    Jan 5, 2009
    more fun lil grom sized waves today Delmarva. Had a blast on my 5'4" Chemistry "Experimental" this board is working its way into my all time favorites list. It just lets you destroy waist high waves. Bonus - onshore flow has kicked the upwelling's ass and water is back up above 75.

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  2. CJsurf

    CJsurf Well-Known Member

    Apr 28, 2014
    Was down for the Oakley Surf Shop Challenge and the Rip Curl Grom Search the past two days in Nags Head. Coldest water I've ever seen on the Outer Banks during the summer months. At times it had to be 58. Waves were tiny for both events.....barely ridable actually.

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  3. JayD

    JayD Well-Known Member

    Feb 6, 2012
    Well, there is no doubt you’re dedicated to giving your ‘grom’ a chance and I’m sure you’re enjoying every minute of it.

    My nephew (Kitty Hawk) and one of my closest friend’s son (Wrightsville beach) are probably 2-3 years older than your son and they both rip. They have grind through all of these contest over the years and had great experiences.

    Sometimes it’s a bust. Hopefully you don’t take it too seriously and enjoy it for what it is...
     
  4. waterbaby

    waterbaby Well-Known Member

    Oct 1, 2012
    Finally caught up to me. Layed down last night and ribs, shoulders...pretty much every joint hurt. Paddled out this morning, anyway, thinking pains would diminish with exercise...wrong. Glassy, shoulder high sets, but inconsistent, overcast and kinda cold...nothing like the summer stoke of last couple days. Made myself catch a few, but felt like total shit. Fortunately, my last wave was a big one. Got a fat, bucket-spraying turn (on a soft-top) and jammed it all the way in to the shoreline. Onshores picked up soon after I went in and it was completely blown out within about 30 min.

    On another bad note, I propt my board vertically against the car (rear-view mirror to hold it), the wind caught it just right and slammed it against an ultra-gnarly asphalt curb. Caused a ding on the rail bad enough I need to repair it...on a soft-top!
     
  5. CJsurf

    CJsurf Well-Known Member

    Apr 28, 2014
    The 9 hour drive home today had me questioning my sanity. Good fun though. The Oakley Surf Shop Challenge is a top notch event. Just wish the waves had been better. Pretty much all of the top talent from Hatteras to New York was down there and I would have liked to have gotten to shoot that level of surfing in good waves.
     
    antoine likes this.
  6. Wavestrom

    Wavestrom Well-Known Member

    477
    Jul 5, 2014
    Drove up to NH for some 1-2' choppy waves*. Kids had a good time though.





    *Water Country water park wave pool. That's what it's come to.
     
  7. Mitchell

    Mitchell Well-Known Member

    Jan 5, 2009
    yesterday in Maryland:

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  8. UnfurleD

    UnfurleD Well-Known Member

    Jul 13, 2016
    long session yesterday. stomach to chest and was loving it. cruised down to 9th E as current was pushing south down to pier. lotta rides to shore, switched up from LB to smaller fish and the crowds got busier. This morning it got a lil more sideshore, same current. maybe a sess after work after hi tide. been fun
     
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  9. Peajay4060

    Peajay4060 Well-Known Member

    Nov 14, 2011
    What's happening? Tropics are heating up. That's what's happening.
    Had a couple of long surfs last two days. One was at bassmons beach. A beastly east wind swell with east winds to go with it. Surfed the whole tide doing drifts across a few sand bars. The swell was almost sideways to the beach so it had softer spots then these runaway sections so I rode the fish. Water was warm enough to trunk but the wind had a bite to it. Just a nice fall like session. Checked my primo on the way home and it was showing promise.

    I hit it up this morning. A novelty type wave was breaking at one point. The current was ripping through making it tough to stay in place. It was breaking almost on a dry sandbar so you could just run out when the wave approached turn and go. Then walk back up and repeat. It was cool. for a while. The wipe outs were plenty and in shallow water too. After a while my body was feeling it so I took a break to hydrate, then paddled the long board out down a ways. The tide drained and the swell was bending in enough to produce these peeling lines. the short boards struggled to get in and stay ahead. the long boards got in early and were able to zip through. Got a good cover up. The kind when you bottom turn, crouch and drag a hand to stall, get covered up so you just keep dragging that back hand for as long as possible. Yous know what I mean. Surfed until the wind picked up. I'm sure it was better elsewhere but I haven't been surfing my regular spots lately. it was nice to be close to home.
    I'm sunburnt and sore but of course I want more.
    Hope yous get some too,
    PJ
     
    Last edited: Aug 27, 2019
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  10. JayD

    JayD Well-Known Member

    Feb 6, 2012
    Sounds like some fun PJ. Hoping wind lays down enough this eve...been out of control and junky....
     
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  11. SCOB3YVILLE

    SCOB3YVILLE Well-Known Member

    691
    Nov 16, 2016
    You should still go. Out of control and junky is way better than flat.
     
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  12. LBCrew

    LBCrew Well-Known Member

    Aug 12, 2009
    Junk yesterday... still junk today, but a bit better with some lighter winds. Sold chest high swell, though... so there's that. A bit soft and bumpy, but a few pockets here and there... enough face to carve a few turns on the fish. I'll take it.
     
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  13. SCOB3YVILLE

    SCOB3YVILLE Well-Known Member

    691
    Nov 16, 2016
    Are you guys getting waves from Dorian?
     
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  14. waterbaby

    waterbaby Well-Known Member

    Oct 1, 2012
    Schools back in on the west coast...WHOO-HOO...so exponentially less crowds & less kooks.

    6 am this morning started out overcast, with an extremely low (negative) low tide, but zero wind. Waves were a dribbly 1/2 foot...barely even big enough to longboard. Stuck around because high tide was going to be 4.1 and I figured that amount of surge might push in something shortboard-able. Sure enough, it eventually got to waist-high and surprisingly fun (keep in mind I'm on a 6 ft soft top w/ 57 liters volume).

    Standouts I pulled were a couple of decent backhand sprays (I'm goofy) on some relatively flat rights, a sweet frontside off-the-lip (first one on the soft top) & a couple of huge frontside turns on my two steepest waves of the day.
     
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  15. LBCrew

    LBCrew Well-Known Member

    Aug 12, 2009
    Nah... TD Erin.
     
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  16. Peajay4060

    Peajay4060 Well-Known Member

    Nov 14, 2011
    What's happening? where's all you surfers at? there are waves out there.

    Had a primo session at my primo local this morning. Although it didn't start out so hot. Got there at dawn and there were already 30 guys on it. It's a tight take off. paddle paddles and all that. I got in it and caught a good one right away and got some flak for it. It was the thunder dome, nobody was playing nice. It was chest high and reeling. Caught a few long rides there but I hate a crowd so I drifted down the line a bit to catch the ones swinging wide. Not too many of those as the whole shebang was connecting. Started catching smaller waves and since I was on the fish I was catching a ton of those and making something of them. It's a drag though to see dudes tearing up the good ones from far away and go right past you. All you do is try to Jedi them to trip up.

    After a while I got tired of it and took a break to hydrate and screen up. Was about to call it a day but great sets were still rolling in and I wanted some. Switched up to the thruster, sat out the back and stayed patient. Got a bomb. A 6'0" poly short board after riding a 5' something epoxy fish for months feels like a boat. It was a long ride from up top all the way and it stayed big the whole time. Played right around the pocket for almost all of it and got some cover too. After that it was on. My confidence went up and got a little street cred too. Got a bunch more like that. Just like that a meh session became a stoke session. It took a while waiting for the right ones but it was worth it. Surfed until I could surf no more. Here I sit with a cup of joe and some kind of acoustic guitar in my ears. I'm too shot to eat.

    Go get some Duders. Write something about it.
     
    Last edited: Aug 29, 2019
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  17. JayD

    JayD Well-Known Member

    Feb 6, 2012
    Between high tide morning/evening and the wind and my work, I have been either missing the window or the window was jacked up...still feeling Irie from Mexico but would love to get wet!!!!
     
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  18. Peajay4060

    Peajay4060 Well-Known Member

    Nov 14, 2011
    Way I see it it, 5 things determine me going surfing. Swell, Wind, Tide, Health, and Time. for them to all align for me is next to impossible because somebody always needs me to be somewhere that is not the ocean. like always. and the dude must abide. so I go whenever I have free time as long as there is any wave size. good tide and wind is a luxury. I'll have a good time.

    Health is out the window. I ain't got time to bleed.

    point being if you gots a window jump out that sonofabitch. PJ's orders.
     
    Last edited: Aug 29, 2019
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  19. beachbreak

    beachbreak Well-Known Member

    Apr 7, 2008
    Long closeout shiite here. And everybody left for mstoke exceptin' a few stragglers and split personalities likeme.
     
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  20. beachbreak

    beachbreak Well-Known Member

    Apr 7, 2008
    Easier said than done. Leg don't work, i can't surf. Facts are facts. Had the femoris rectus removed, leg burnt with radiation, nerve pain blinding.

    Small waves only. Very. Few and far between.
    Count your blessings.