who here has been surfing this week?

Discussion in 'All Discussions' started by Peajay4060, Jan 14, 2015.

  1. beachbreak

    beachbreak Well-Known Member

    Apr 7, 2008
    Thank you for spreadin' the love, er, stoke.
    Got me thinkin'... If i were your lawyer i would win your case because you are right.
    Me and my kind are a bunch of hypocrites because we all benefitted in one way or another from the marketing, or what we call the commercialization and/or exploitation of our pure 'sacred' sport.
    My malibu heroes lance carson and dora had malibu crew wrecked by it. Gidget/frankie&annette brought hordes of kooks, it made them nuts, literally, but they made $$$ from it. Hypocrites. Stunt doubles in said movies, cash for surf magazine features, signature board models, etc..just like obrien gravy only these guys today aren't hypocrites like them. And my other two heroes are king complainers talk out of both sides of their mouths, too, greenough and wayne lynch, all the way to the bank.
    My hypocrisy is the benefits from the income generated and put into surfing led to the advancements being mass-produced and therefore readily accessible to plain ole me.
    Plus if i think it's kooky but they are ridfing waves and having fun that makes me the kook. 100%. Even if it looks really stupid.
    How'd i do?
    You win, kanman.
    Case closed.
     
    Kanman likes this.
  2. UnfurleD

    UnfurleD Well-Known Member

    873
    Jul 13, 2016
    morning all, sideshore waist to chest inconsistencies out there on Folly. Stuck to my spot down the street. didn't have the most rides on the mid-length fisch but a handful will do the 1/2 hr sess. ceo in town, otherwise would be there for another 1/2 hr. couple right handers to keep that mini tube dream alive. wish i had a camera, would've shot a pic of a hawk chillin on lifeguard stand on way out. maybe something to think about after work, may chop out real bad too. ps: i'm against the pool noodles for grown men
     
    antoine likes this.

  3. Kanman

    Kanman Well-Known Member

    732
    May 5, 2014
    Beachbreak, I’m not trying to “win” over you. I have no reason to nor a motive. Just observing what I see and documenting it along the way.

    In other news, when the day comes that you can’t stand up surf, consider the surf mat. That is my one saving grace this summer since I’m unable to surf. What a blast.

    Planning to take it out tonight in some 2-3 long period! Yew.
     
    antoine likes this.
  4. beachbreak

    beachbreak Well-Known Member

    Apr 7, 2008
    Yeah i am in the ocean every day.
    And i remain optimistic that the day will never come that i cannot standup and surf.
    Knowing all the while i could be wrong.
    But i have hope.
    And i was just documenting my thought fruit of our misunderstanding, that us 'purists' are a bunch of hypocrites, because we do all gain from money going into the sport in one way or another. Surf lessons and soft rentals keep my awesome surf shops owners able to survive right now. You spoke i listened.
    Plus i would be a good lawyer.
    I'm stoked if you're stoked, kanman.
    Surf on.
     
    antoine likes this.
  5. curl

    curl Well-Known Member

    113
    Apr 30, 2013
    Ocean temps up , offshores with a pulse in the ocean . A few large swirls chasing bait this am gave u that uncomfortable thought
     
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  6. UnfurleD

    UnfurleD Well-Known Member

    873
    Jul 13, 2016
    morning fellas, stomach to chest hi with occ shoulder peaks. beautiful, clean, and a great start to the morning. all alone btwn 2nd n 3rd E on folly on the LB, all rights as lefts just weren't in the cards for me. sweet caroliner, nutting finer
     
    antoine likes this.
  7. antoine

    antoine Well-Known Member

    Mar 10, 2013
    So I'll just live vicariously through your lucky conditions! Surf here is relatively flat lucky to get a knee high wave maybe lucky thigh. I'm still stoked you're getting waves. Good on you dude
     
  8. Peajay4060

    Peajay4060 Well-Known Member

    Nov 14, 2011
    What's happening?
    Got a surf in this morning just like unfurled except all lefts. Had to go to a site late morning right around a rock reef. Never ride this place on an LB even though it is a great place for it because the hike in is a beast carrying that thing. I just felt like Longboarding. Set up my board the night before with a raked fin moved all the way back. Found it chest high and bigger. A mix of a east groundswell and a south wind swell made the wave a bit of a chunky monkey and every once in a while a bomb mowed through. Long faded bottom turns into a hard drop knees and walk to the tip. Then back and drop knee again and again. Surfed more upright and slack than usual. Just seemed right to keep it casual. Enjoyed how the fin worked with the tail rocker and belly to give long easy rides for a couple of hours. Chatted with an actor we've all seen in stuff. Dude could surf too. Left as it crowded up and hiked out. Had some pepper and caffeine in my step hiking in. Bit of a slog on the way out. Got an egg sandwich, my biz done, and out just before our POTUS landed.
    As always hope for more. Tomorrow would be nice. Got the Long Board bug.
    PJ
     
    Last edited: Aug 9, 2019
  9. SandAss

    SandAss Member

    24
    Jul 9, 2019
    What the hell is everyone talking about in here? You guys are weird.

    Anyway last night had some real fun and long rides in dirty jerz. chest high and glassssssssssssssssss
     
  10. Mitchell

    Mitchell Well-Known Member

    Jan 5, 2009
    Delmarva this morning: my buddy riding a board i shaped for him.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  11. Mitchell

    Mitchell Well-Known Member

    Jan 5, 2009
    A-framey conditions:
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
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  12. Wavestrom

    Wavestrom Well-Known Member

    447
    Jul 5, 2014
    Headed south of Boston for some evening waves. Funner than I'd hoped but much colder than I'd expect in August. Weird. Fun little longboard waves. I thought it was crowded but there were 5-10 people all hanging out way outside, waiting for set waves that were never, ever coming. Fine by me.
     
    antoine likes this.
  13. antoine

    antoine Well-Known Member

    Mar 10, 2013
    One day I will be able to post on this thread again. But for now just some lengthy walks on the beach convincing myself I see a wave
     
  14. LBCrew

    LBCrew Well-Known Member

    Aug 12, 2009
    Got some solid size for the first time all summer the past two days... but not in NJ. Chest to head high sets, although conditions were not very good. Still... got some fun ones while on leave, which is always a good thing. Rented a 6'0 CI Pod... which was a little undervolumed for me considering the bouncy, textured conditions. Would have been a great board if the wind was offshore... but it was moderate onshore/sideshore, so I would say it was the right board for the day.

    Flying home manana.
     
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  15. sigmund

    sigmund Well-Known Member

    Dec 7, 2015
    Fun chest high long period swell hitting up here the past 2 days with offshore conditions. Feels so nice to carve some turns after a long summer's nap. Looking forward to the Fall.
     
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  16. Rob Gnarley

    Rob Gnarley Well-Known Member

    132
    Mar 27, 2012
    Scored some fun uncrowded waves today. It was a bit inconsistent so I took out a longboard to chase the sets. 20190810_073159.jpg 20190810_085818.jpg 20190810_085859.jpg
     
    sigmund likes this.
  17. antoine

    antoine Well-Known Member

    Mar 10, 2013
    Dude that looks fun
     
  18. smitty517

    smitty517 Well-Known Member

    715
    Oct 30, 2008
    No wetsuit? I must be a puss....
     
  19. Mitchell

    Mitchell Well-Known Member

    Jan 5, 2009
    I think Assateague has been getting upwelling that OC hasnt been. trunked it in Town three times this week, felt like mid 70s M
     
  20. Rob Gnarley

    Rob Gnarley Well-Known Member

    132
    Mar 27, 2012
    Hell yea it was fun. Just trying to post an objective report. 15 minute wait between sets. Locked into some fun ones. You can cover some distance sprint paddling on a longboard
     
    antoine likes this.