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Discussion in 'All Discussions' started by Peajay4060, Jan 14, 2015.
Town does feel warmer. Hung with wifey on beach and didnt wear suit for BB session late Fri.
Headed north of town for some early morning waves. Fun little peelers, perfect longboard waves. The water is still chilly for August but I bothered with the suite this time so it was all good.
Dense fog all day here in nor cal. Paddled out to discover sloshy chest-high waves. My performance was sketchy due to several factors (including surfing a 6 ft soft top because that's all my thrashed knee can handle), but still got some long high-tide cruisers and a couple of snaps. I also haven't been surfing much due to living significantly inland, but I recently moved blocks from the beach, so will be in the water way more.
That sounds excellent to me! the future looks good for you my man.
Heading to the ferry in a few minutes on a trip to Nags Head for a couple of contests over the next few days. Pray for surf because the forecast looks really dismal. Lake Atlantic.
You may see some weak waist high waves in town tomorrow and beyond...south should have a rideable wave with this weak SE swell “picking up”.
Yeah buxton gets something rideable nobody even knows about most days if you hang around for the incoming tide.
Got a bunch long board waves yesterday morning. Size and shape was better than expected but nothing spectacular. Lost my board into a tide pool of boulders And someone took my slippers off the path.
Had to hike out bare foot which was kind of a drag.
But hey at least I got waves. Strikes and gutters.
Bummer on the slippers...did you ding up your board?
Yesterday, fog miraculously disappeared at about 10am...gorgeous. Incoming tide was waist high & clean...but swamped out within a hour of paddling out. Outgoing tide was even zippier...so summer-fun, surfed until I couldn't pop-up worth a shit (about 5 hrs).
Sitting here, hoping it does the same as yesterday. Probably won't, but waves & wind are looking good, so looks like possible fog sesh.
Thigh to waist high onshorey junk on the log today. Still fun. Water is warm and thick with salps.
Today was even better than yesterday. Sun only peaked through fog for about 30 min, but the waves were chest high and clean...hardly anyone out! (so expensive here, most people have to work full-time...always gets crowded as hell after 5 pm & weekends). Cant believe I'm even considering paddling out tomorrow...4 days in a row is usually my max (when I feel like I've been hit by a bus), but tomorrow will be 5.
yes it is and yes it was. bunch of minor scrapes and bruises. easy fixes.
more fun lil grom sized waves today Delmarva. Had a blast on my 5'4" Chemistry "Experimental" this board is working its way into my all time favorites list. It just lets you destroy waist high waves. Bonus - onshore flow has kicked the upwelling's ass and water is back up above 75.
Was down for the Oakley Surf Shop Challenge and the Rip Curl Grom Search the past two days in Nags Head. Coldest water I've ever seen on the Outer Banks during the summer months. At times it had to be 58. Waves were tiny for both events.....barely ridable actually.
Well, there is no doubt you’re dedicated to giving your ‘grom’ a chance and I’m sure you’re enjoying every minute of it.
My nephew (Kitty Hawk) and one of my closest friend’s son (Wrightsville beach) are probably 2-3 years older than your son and they both rip. They have grind through all of these contest over the years and had great experiences.
Sometimes it’s a bust. Hopefully you don’t take it too seriously and enjoy it for what it is...
Finally caught up to me. Layed down last night and ribs, shoulders...pretty much every joint hurt. Paddled out this morning, anyway, thinking pains would diminish with exercise...wrong. Glassy, shoulder high sets, but inconsistent, overcast and kinda cold...nothing like the summer stoke of last couple days. Made myself catch a few, but felt like total shit. Fortunately, my last wave was a big one. Got a fat, bucket-spraying turn (on a soft-top) and jammed it all the way in to the shoreline. Onshores picked up soon after I went in and it was completely blown out within about 30 min.
On another bad note, I propt my board vertically against the car (rear-view mirror to hold it), the wind caught it just right and slammed it against an ultra-gnarly asphalt curb. Caused a ding on the rail bad enough I need to repair it...on a soft-top!
The 9 hour drive home today had me questioning my sanity. Good fun though. The Oakley Surf Shop Challenge is a top notch event. Just wish the waves had been better. Pretty much all of the top talent from Hatteras to New York was down there and I would have liked to have gotten to shoot that level of surfing in good waves.
Drove up to NH for some 1-2' choppy waves*. Kids had a good time though.
*Water Country water park wave pool. That's what it's come to.
yesterday in Maryland: