who here has been surfing this week?

Discussion in 'All Discussions' started by Peajay4060, Jan 14, 2015.

  1. UnfurleD

    UnfurleD Well-Known Member

    Jul 13, 2016
    straight up waist hi mush in the waters this morning. starting to feel the effects of one of the invest 95's or whateverz out of Florida. hopefully it breaks better, but lotta surfers cramming spots around Folly. Hopeful the wind does shite out the full moon dusk sess later, but a solid reggae band is playing at a solid brewery tonight if it fails to be
     
  2. waterbaby

    waterbaby Well-Known Member

    Oct 1, 2012
    My knee story is somewhere on this website, so I wont repeat it.

    I have a hard shortboard, but haven't been able to ride it due to the lack of stability and my kneecap gets painful just rubbing against the hard fiberglass. Every once in a while, I try riding it again to see if things have changed for the better...but it's still not happening.

    I'm just happy I can surf at all...took me 3 years to just get back to this level.
     
    CaptJAQ and antoine like this.

  3. Peajay4060

    Peajay4060 Well-Known Member

    Nov 14, 2011
    Makes me happy knowing you're out there.
    Dudes banged up but still finding a way to surf, In good waves to boot, then telling us a good story.

    Usually start my day reading it as you are our midnight rambler. Good to have a west coaster on here.

    Just got out. Better sets are chest high. Weak but plentiful. Little sideshore bump on it but the wind was with the wave not against it. Just caught a bunch of waves. Some were good. Took the Fish. Love that fish. Speaking of fish they are everywhere but I have no interest. Just want to surf. There at two 8 point bucks running around which has me wanting venison stew.

    Listening to Maggie's farm 6/14/91 Washington. Thinking about the yard work that needs doing. Fall veggies and flowers. Over seeding and what not.

    All I want is the figs to ripen.

    Oh This why I dont post right after surfing. Talk about rambling.

    Get yours. Share a story.
    PJ
     
  4. Wavestrom

    Wavestrom Well-Known Member

    477
    Jul 5, 2014
    Headed up north of the city this morning - nice warm water, mostly clean waves, good time all around. Moved to a different break after a few hours and it was better. Too much sun, arms spend, go Pats. Cool seeing a lot of little fish, eels, etc... through the clear water. Not quite Florida with spinner sharks jumping around, etc.. but still neat.
     
    antoine likes this.
  5. LBCrew

    LBCrew Well-Known Member

    Aug 12, 2009
    Semi clean conditions today with a waist to chest high east swell coming in. Best things was I had a peak to myself for a couple hours. Two dudes to the north of me were the only other guys in sight, and they turned out to be long-time locals my age or older. Good guys... fun waves... warm water... a pod of dolphins... sunny skies. I'll take it.
     
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  6. antoine

    antoine Well-Known Member

    Mar 10, 2013
    5d7d618c-aaeb-4533-9e8c-55d37f21232c.png Went to Spanish house today had a successful go of it. Sat by myself for 2 hours. Saw 2 spinner sharks and 4 dolphin. Pretty active viewing for the conditions. Stopped at the localtex Mex for some tacos then refereed 2 youth soccer games. Hit the grocery store for some vitals on the way home and walked the dog. Pretty good day for me.
     
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  7. CJsurf

    CJsurf Well-Known Member

    Apr 28, 2014
    Super fun today. Shot some. Surfed some. Airshow going on overhead. My 14 year old was putting on his own airshow.

    70368965_10211646924007447_2682942477832290304_o.jpg

    71246787_10211646922767416_7128700951698866176_o.jpg
     
    Wavestrom likes this.
  8. antoine

    antoine Well-Known Member

    Mar 10, 2013
    both air shots are remarkable, super stoked for you!
     
  9. JayD

    JayD Well-Known Member

    Feb 6, 2012
    Nothing epic in the past weeks but man, plenty of rideable surf. Good run and Humberto appears to want to deliver a little sumtin!!

    It almost seemed like you could see some Humberto mixing in with this NE goodness this afternoon.
     
  10. UnfurleD

    UnfurleD Well-Known Member

    Jul 13, 2016
    put on 4 sess day on Saturday. Didn't bode well the next couple days, but i'm not gonna kill myself on some overhead surf after that kinda score. that saturday started with a LB then went down to a shorty. scooping to the right seemed to work well and doubled up. had some fun, will wait on lo tide if they keep churning like they are today
     
    antoine likes this.
  11. LazyE

    LazyE Well-Known Member

    Aug 6, 2014
    3 days of good surf! Today was firing for FB. Overhead freight trains for 3 hours then work. Arms tired but stoke is strong!
     
    antoine likes this.
  12. CJsurf

    CJsurf Well-Known Member

    Apr 28, 2014
    Been chasing Humberto all week up and down the Outer Banks. Terrible internet where we've posted up. Couple of samples from the roughly 600 shots I've taken the past couple of days:

    71294173_10211663042930410_1794921855824429056_o.jpg

    IMG_8001-2.jpg IMG_7896.jpg IMG_7826.jpg
     
  13. CJsurf

    CJsurf Well-Known Member

    Apr 28, 2014
    This was the largest wave I saw ridden today.


    IMG_8152.jpg

    Young Carl Burger from Florida on a solid one.


    IMG_8170.jpg
     
    Last edited: Sep 19, 2019
  14. antoine

    antoine Well-Known Member

    Mar 10, 2013
    SCOB3YVILLE likes this.
  15. Peajay4060

    Peajay4060 Well-Known Member

    Nov 14, 2011
    Hey what's happening?
    Nice pics. And 4 surfs in one day? Man I'd be completely useless for days after. Watching TV would be too exhausting.

    Got 2 surfs in Yesterday. I didn't want to go to my Primo local because I did not want to get sucked into the place. It's kinda fickle. You be looking at some bad waves but just a bit more tide or swell direction or whatever can make it all time. Or nothing can happen and you waste valuable surf time when it could be good somewhere else. So I didn't even check. Checked a few spots in town and what weird swell for us. 1 st spot overhead but seasick. Just a klick more down the road and almost flat and both face the same direction. Went back to the 1st spot and gave it a go. It was good not great. Strikes and gutters. Either a good ride or a beat down and you didn't know until you went. Rode my shorty and was thankful for nose flip. Just felt confident on the steep drops.
    The whole time I was thinking if it was better at the primo but I heard it wasn't. Headed to a worksite near another good break.

    Helped finish up the day there and went at it at the far end of my Island where it should have been bigger but it just wasn't
    I think the outgoing was draining the energy or the swell angle was just off. Ended up surfing the fish in some waist to chest high funky ones. After that I headed to another job and worked until after midnight.

    Woke up early and cranky but I checked in again because I gotta surf. Yous know what I mean. Went right to the same places as yesterday morning but the wind was wrecking a good swell. Didn't pull the trigger cause I was kinda beat. Now I'm at work and disgusted with myself. I will drink tonight.

    So far this was a weird swell for my island. Glad you guys got it though.
    PJ.
     
    Last edited: Sep 20, 2019
    LBCrew likes this.
  16. curl

    curl Well-Known Member

    405
    Apr 30, 2013
    Epic end to summer , dredging rights , hard offshores , and 200 of my best friends !
     
  17. Peajay4060

    Peajay4060 Well-Known Member

    Nov 14, 2011
    In NJ? Everyone on my island was talking about heading there yesterday.

    I'm on the beach right now. Bassmons go to. Pretty fun. But kinda dangerous. 1st wave was a big gnarly. Made the steep and deep drop and turned into a pitching wedge. Made it by the skin of my teeth. 2nd was the same but I got wrecked and put my knee into the rail of my good wave shorty. It's a bad ding pissing water as I squeeze it.

    Only other board is my Bonzer. Stayed out the back and waited for bombs. Got a couple. Got in early and just freight trained hrough without a turn but making It all the way. Made me do the I love this stick thing( see the lighter side). Thanks for the laugh Antione. Bigger sets are getting scarce. And this board don't like small waves. Taking a coffee break watching this guy getting stuck in the sand. Glad I went but know I'm done.

    I'll say it again. This swell was weird.
    Get some dudes.
    PJ
     
  18. curl

    curl Well-Known Member

    405
    Apr 30, 2013
  19. curl

    curl Well-Known Member

    405
    Apr 30, 2013
    Photog Tim Torcia
     
  20. curl

    curl Well-Known Member

    405
    Apr 30, 2013
    Yes PJ ,fyi the beach replenishment has wiped out most of our east swell breaks .The surf crowd focuses on the few remaining spots creating a Malibu type scene.