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Discussion in 'All Discussions' started by Peajay4060, Jan 14, 2015.
Hey Hey-hey. What's Happening?
Heck of a few days of swell for us here on my island. Nice pics and stories well told.
Got some of it myself the last few days.
Hit my primo at dawn on Thursday. A slow pulse of a swell was wrapping in around chest high. I don't think it was from Dorian. I was the guinea pig. Got nice long rides with no one out for a while. Not being in a soup bowl of hassle right away, and having no particular place to be for a while, must have got me in a rhythm because even after the boys started jumping in I was nabbing the best of the set waves. Good waves for the fish with a clean pocket and these little little cover up sections that you could squirt out and catch back up with the open face. I just kept surfing until while taking a hydrate break I saw that the crowd was growing and the set frequency was diminishing. Decided I gots mine and moved on. Headed to my home town where my family volunteers for it's annual Feast. My ma makes the meatballs. On the way did some sand recon at my old breaks and talked with my old bros to get the lowdown on where to be when Dorian comes by.
Was back there on Friday. It was a damp chilly day. A messy swell in the water and I watched the LB contest going on for a bit. It was cool. It grew in size and cleaned up late for just a little warm up for Saturday.
That was about the very definition of surfing around here this time of year. Blue sky, off shores adding a bit of bite, just overhead bombs coming through and a drift to spread it out. Something about surfing on the waves you learned to surf on. Best way to describe it? I was comfortable. Took a 70's style heavy bonzer out for a spin at first and got a handful of bombs right away. Got in early and behind the peak and hauled ass through the pits. No sunshine where I was and no stall needed. Flew out, up and over with my heart thumping enough to hurt. On one I was so comfortable I looked behind me. It was menacing. Low tide made for a trickier drop so I took a coffee break/board swap and had a text convo with a dude we seldom see any more around here. You out there Brother Shamus? That made my day. Switched to a proper squash tail thruster. Started catching the smaller ones that had more of a wall to carve after a short barrel on take off. Surfed until I had a drift where the only wave caught was the one that I rode in on. Hung with some of my oldest dearest surf buds then back to the Feast. Sunday was a struggle to move. Not because of the surfing. It was being on my feet serving beer all night. There was a chick fight.
Good times for a couple of days. I'm spent. Looking to fish for a bit but if a swell comes up I'm in.
Hope you gets some,
Irish Monk checking in. Enjoying your write up of what sounds like a perfect day in the southern Northeast. It was good, and thorough. Been too long man it was great catching up.
I never got in the water but I did take my little one on a ferris wheel for the first time sunday. She's a little fkn charger though no fear whatsoever.
I had mine on carni rides on Sat! ferris wheels, zippers and my favorite. the gravitron.
Haha yes! This was our first official carni type experience, it was great. I had a feeling to wear shitty clothes and I ended up with fried dough sauce all over me.
Yeah someone decided to put oreos in the zeppole. Holy Moly
Couldn't see anything through the fog at dawn. Sun finally burned just enough off to see a sloshy windswell on an incoming tide...kinda like "victory at sea", but without wind. Only 3 guys out...all huddled in one spot.
Timed the paddle-out perfectly and didn't realize just how big it really was until the first set rolled through...huge, meaty, mountains of water. I was completely intimidated and took a good 20 min to get up the courage to drop in.
Ate shit on my first attempt. Landed on my ribs (they still hurt). My first make was a left bomb. At least, a 10 ft face and fast as hell...kinda like a roller coaster, weaving in and out of the massive lumps. Got a giant turn and rode it all the way to the beach.
Despite that good wave, I was definitely rattled by the size/conditions and kept falling on the next few waves. After about an hour of basically just floating (and trying to duck-dive 57 liters of volume through all the whitewater), I drifted into an area where some local shredders had paddled out (of course, they were killing it). They were all watching as I caught a nicely shaped, but smaller wave. It was embarrassing: I made it, but my my foot placement was bad and my form was atrocious. Fortunately, I got caught inside for what seemed like 20 min and got so tired, had to get out.
I was about to just leave, but decided to walk back down to where I started and try again. There were more people out, so less intimidating and the competition was motivating. Paddled right out and immediately caught another bomb even bigger than the first...no turns, but even faster
and longer. Caught two more bombs and only got out because I couldn't paddle anymore.
Don't know if I have strength to deal with that shit tomorrow (I'm 55 yo and my joints aren't so great)...but I'll give it a check.
Love all the smiles over the shoulder. Nice pics!
Thanks. I got a few shots of him that day where he was turning heads.
Saturday in Avalon, NJ
Damn water droplets!
... and a different wave
fun stuff for this old man!
nice shot man I surfed wind chop today
Bluebird dawn patrol this morning. No wind and swell seemed to have dropped to a more manageable level...I was pretty stoked.
Turns out it was much bigger than it looked from the parking lot. Sets still overhead and exceptionally powerful.
First wave was a nice left bomb that just reeled forever...the crew were all watching. Second wave was a smaller insider on which I made my first full (soft-top) roundhouse.
Unfortunately, a huge set came in as I was paddling back out and I was struggling to repeatedly duck-dive my fat/unwieldy board under all the violence. When I finished my underwater wrestling match & finally made it to the line-up, I had a painful/pinching sensation in my left shoulder joint...bad enough I could barely paddle.
Despite the pain, I caught another wave and had to walk down to a mellower spot just to paddle back out. At this point I was basically paddling with only one arm & no duck-dives (bailing my board or trying to hold it to my side).
Barely using the arm helped. I drifted down & caught a couple more nice ones before the onshores wrecked it.
Needless to say, surfing with that much pain was dumb. Even though tide & conditions should be good a few more days, I have to bail and let my shoulder heal...if it even does.
gotta hand it to you for paddling out in that on a soft top.
but i gotta ask why you don't own a non-soft board? Not making fun, surfing is surfing, just curious.
straight up waist hi mush in the waters this morning. starting to feel the effects of one of the invest 95's or whateverz out of Florida. hopefully it breaks better, but lotta surfers cramming spots around Folly. Hopeful the wind does shite out the full moon dusk sess later, but a solid reggae band is playing at a solid brewery tonight if it fails to be
My knee story is somewhere on this website, so I wont repeat it.
I have a hard shortboard, but haven't been able to ride it due to the lack of stability and my kneecap gets painful just rubbing against the hard fiberglass. Every once in a while, I try riding it again to see if things have changed for the better...but it's still not happening.
I'm just happy I can surf at all...took me 3 years to just get back to this level.
Makes me happy knowing you're out there.
Dudes banged up but still finding a way to surf, In good waves to boot, then telling us a good story.
Usually start my day reading it as you are our midnight rambler. Good to have a west coaster on here.
Just got out. Better sets are chest high. Weak but plentiful. Little sideshore bump on it but the wind was with the wave not against it. Just caught a bunch of waves. Some were good. Took the Fish. Love that fish. Speaking of fish they are everywhere but I have no interest. Just want to surf. There at two 8 point bucks running around which has me wanting venison stew.
Listening to Maggie's farm 6/14/91 Washington. Thinking about the yard work that needs doing. Fall veggies and flowers. Over seeding and what not.
All I want is the figs to ripen.
Oh This why I dont post right after surfing. Talk about rambling.
Get yours. Share a story.
Headed up north of the city this morning - nice warm water, mostly clean waves, good time all around. Moved to a different break after a few hours and it was better. Too much sun, arms spend, go Pats. Cool seeing a lot of little fish, eels, etc... through the clear water. Not quite Florida with spinner sharks jumping around, etc.. but still neat.
Semi clean conditions today with a waist to chest high east swell coming in. Best things was I had a peak to myself for a couple hours. Two dudes to the north of me were the only other guys in sight, and they turned out to be long-time locals my age or older. Good guys... fun waves... warm water... a pod of dolphins... sunny skies. I'll take it.
Went to Spanish house today had a successful go of it. Sat by myself for 2 hours. Saw 2 spinner sharks and 4 dolphin. Pretty active viewing for the conditions. Stopped at the localtex Mex for some tacos then refereed 2 youth soccer games. Hit the grocery store for some vitals on the way home and walked the dog. Pretty good day for me.
Super fun today. Shot some. Surfed some. Airshow going on overhead. My 14 year old was putting on his own airshow.