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Discussion in 'All Discussions' started by Peajay4060, Jan 14, 2015.
Is that the SI mastermind founder?
soft but sweet peelers around the waist to chest hi range. i took a bigger board given it was only a couple hours after lo tide. i tried barreling, got crushed. in fact, hurt my neck on the first wave caught. crowd started filling, rightfully so since today is our day for the biggest push from L&K. was able to carve some out and make the most of it, but had to keep a lo line in order to get into em. all around good times. water did smell a like poo tho
I have not been surfing. That last run of swell didn't hit my island right at all. Just kept waiting for it, but it never came in right.
Got me some little nuggets today though. Chest high and clean on a cold damp day. Found a rock pile that no one was on, offering a short wave with just enough room for some quick shade and an off the top. After that you were in the rock pile. It was fast and steep. Ate it on the drop on the 1st one but nailed the 2nd. And that's how it went. Make the drop and you had it. I'd say I was 50/50. Went in when the better sets started to become scarce. A nice warm up. Hope to get a few days of the goods on this next run. A pretty good fall so far. Starting to be a once a day thing with the limited day light already.
They look promising while I was at work. Light winds plenty of sunshine plenty of swell in the water looks like everybody was having a good time. Got off of work a little bit early grab the board headed up to what I thought was going to be a good spot and the wind changes.. Sunny to paddle out anyway and somewhere between four and six foot disorganized slop. Managed to catch a few good rides but the big winner of the day was just getting out making it past the break. On the way home stopped off and treated myself to a avocado salad with some blackened dolphin. I know it's Taco Tuesday and I should have had tacos but opted for the energizing salad
Sounds friggin delicious.
Day 2 of this swell was a little Bigger than yesterday with a lot more water moving around. Head high at the drop. Rain, Heavy winds and a fast sweep. Left a car way down and drove back up to paddle out. Drifted a couple of miles. Used to be that I would try to catch a wave per street but I went a couple of blocks without a wave. I don't catch as many as I used too. Sometimes I would go a few blocks before connecting with one. The drops were still steep but the angle changed a little from yesterday. I fell less and after the bombing part there was a longer fun wall to turn on. Chickened out on going on a totally makeable bomb. Woulda been great. Nice to have a ride back and a warm shower right after. Today is a chicken soup day.
Getting bigger by the hour here right now and the wind is strong off shore with a touch of east on it. I guess it's from a nor'easter? Cool. Can't wait to see what tomorrow brings.
You may have already seen some stuff about what went down on my island. All I I'll say is that it is all true. It was the biggest, hollowest waves I've ever seen break here. Honestly it might be the biggest hollowest waves I've seen anywhere in real life and I've been around.
It all went down for the last three days at that spot I was surfed two posts ago. I was there for all of it. Was out with the pros and the bros the cameras and the skis. This spot was the only one really holding the swell. Everywhere else was still good, but it wasn't what this place was. It was breaking close to shore. The paddle outs were pretty easy. About my surfing I would say I got my shacks. But I didn't make alot of them. Catching one was easy. There were plenty of them. Many times though after getting into one I was so deep in the tube I saw the exit but just couldn't get there. It was like a horror movie when the hallway gets really long. I just wasn't quick enough.
I wasn't the only one But some dudes got the deepest pits I've ever seen. Not just the pros either. Gotta say I felt my age out there. Not to many older dudes out.
I didn't surf today. Surfed out.
Couple of shots from Saturday in AC.
Video frame grab.
Couple of shots from the NSSA NorthEast High School Championships yesterday in Spring Lake.
quality bump yesterday from your nor'easters on delay here in the Carolinas. lo tide at 4pm, buddy n i crossed fingers that the quick shot would pan out after work. lotta ppl out down the street, and with the winds n drift going south to north - it's a rare feat around these here parts. took out the 6'9 loehr fish, and got busy. at the spot, it double dips so you there were times to extend the ride and i tried every time. i drifted down to the water tower where i came up after a ride only to get whipped by the swallow tail on the dome. small gash got me out of there before sunset, but it was a fun filled evening. good midweek vibes. it's that time to plan the february surf trip - i've kinda narrowed down to W. PR, Barbados, Nicoya CR, and San Diego (likely in the fall for that one tho). mentioned it to a couple buds if they wanna contemplate on going with, but that shall be booked soon. will revert in next trip thread
That's cool unfurled. Weird to have a swell go from us to you this time of year. usually it's up the coast not down. This one was a freak.
tropical nestor passed us on Saturday setting up another quick shot of swell Sunday. There were monsters lined up that morning on Folly breaking at different points with a solid current up north again. my buddy picked me up that morning around 10. It was overcast and looked menacing, i felt pretty eerie about this one deciding on where to put in at the Washout. fyi my buddy doesn't even think about that stuff, so i don't really pay attention to his advise. we walked a couple blocks south, finally found a spot but was about knee hi waiting for the sets to taper off for about 10 min and then said to myself to go ahead and sit this one out. i've tried to more now than lately because it usually ends up being a shtty paddle out and killing my stoke. wasn't but 15 min before he came in and said it was awful. we recouped, drank, and kicked it for a few hours and came back out on the lo tide. perfect! chest hi to shoulder, clean and walk into kinda waves. took out the 6'4 perfection fish, which i thought may have not been the right boart for the day, but ended up working well on 90% of the waves. lotta eating face and chasing barrels, and those kinda waves are my favs. killed it for several hours and didn't ding up my dome like last time. sorry for the long post, but it's one of those glad i didn't put in at "the wrong time" situations. i was able to get it when i should rather than when i can
Long posts are what this thread is all about!
Totally get what you're saying by the the wrong time.
I went in at the wrong time for this one. Had to work so the wrong time was the only time. Rolled up at low to the spot the same spot the last few posts. Found it head high and clean. A good drop and a speed wall as long as you could until you had to duck out. Fun for a minute. On the way to work checked another spot and found it in better shape and getting better. What are you gonna do? Headed to work and finished up with enough daylight for a 2nd go. the wind had come up but there was still a good ride. Not all time but I was in good company. Got a dude that lost his surfing way to paddle out and get a few.
Know what solves all your sh!t? Surfing does that's what.
Went for a surf this morning to catch the clean up of a storm that blew through yesterday. Wasn't expecting much. Rocked up to the closest beach break with a fish and didn't even look at it. Just suited up and jumped in. Was better than I thought. Waist to chest with some bigger ones around. Super clean. I had a hoot.
Didn't start out great as I was always in the wrong spot or couldn't find my way into the pocket. But the wind started to slack off and I found my stride. Got a few cover ups and finally found myself on some good walls. Got a bunch of good ones at the end.
Finished up and right to the jobsite. Found a new bagel place along the way that made a heck of an egg sandwich.
i made it up to myrtle friday night, stoppin by Old Village Surf Shop on my way back down on Saturday. My ol Perfection board "ms. clementine" is on its last legs, seeing what they got in stock. guess they don't do perfection boarts no more, now falls under Kelly Richards (KR)shapes. might customize a stick from dat place, but the ol man wasn't in. surf came along on sunday, surfed that late morning with another homie off the pier. just us, took me a while to slingin it but finally found my groove and took it on a for a couple hours. went later in the day, but it was already getting a tad smaller and nothing memorable from that sess. still in the rashguard, feel like i've worn that more this year than ever before
So high school soccer season has begun which means my surfing window has closed quite a bit. It's always hard for me this time of year especially when surfing season begins the same time high school soccer season does. Now that I'm done whining. I've decided to cancel Friday's practice take the day off from work and go surf you know, really treat myself to a full day up surfing and good food. I really enjoy reading everyone's posts and hopefully I'll be able to contribute a good story for the topic of who he has been surfing this week lately or at all LOL!
That's funny, soccer season is just ending up here. Sept/Oct are always hard because it's often when there's great surf and warm water but so many conflicts.
November is pretty good though - no gloves or hoods needed most days, no after school sports, etc... Hoping to get out Friday or Saturday myself, weather/work/waves permitting.
Strong sideshores today, but there's a solid swell in the water. No surfers... but two kite surfers were absolutely SHREDDING waves apart. So cool to see all that power and speed being used the way it should... on an open face.
surfed for an hour sunday evening.had an idea there might be waves and there was.one of those weird pop up swells that last for a few hours.ny was epic 2 weeks ago I think,didnt get to go but saw plenty of pics.other than that,im still alive lol,all is good.doctors may have found what wrong with me,a hiatal hernia which I kind of knew from the beginning but took 8 months to finally discover,so gonna get surgery sometime in nov/dec.hopefully il be normal again and not have to take 12 pills a day