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Discussion in 'All Discussions' started by Peajay4060, Jan 14, 2015.
both air shots are remarkable, super stoked for you!
Nothing epic in the past weeks but man, plenty of rideable surf. Good run and Humberto appears to want to deliver a little sumtin!!
It almost seemed like you could see some Humberto mixing in with this NE goodness this afternoon.
put on 4 sess day on Saturday. Didn't bode well the next couple days, but i'm not gonna kill myself on some overhead surf after that kinda score. that saturday started with a LB then went down to a shorty. scooping to the right seemed to work well and doubled up. had some fun, will wait on lo tide if they keep churning like they are today
3 days of good surf! Today was firing for FB. Overhead freight trains for 3 hours then work. Arms tired but stoke is strong!
Been chasing Humberto all week up and down the Outer Banks. Terrible internet where we've posted up. Couple of samples from the roughly 600 shots I've taken the past couple of days:
This was the largest wave I saw ridden today.
Young Carl Burger from Florida on a solid one.
Insane skill...photos and surfing
Hey what's happening?
Nice pics. And 4 surfs in one day? Man I'd be completely useless for days after. Watching TV would be too exhausting.
Got 2 surfs in Yesterday. I didn't want to go to my Primo local because I did not want to get sucked into the place. It's kinda fickle. You be looking at some bad waves but just a bit more tide or swell direction or whatever can make it all time. Or nothing can happen and you waste valuable surf time when it could be good somewhere else. So I didn't even check. Checked a few spots in town and what weird swell for us. 1 st spot overhead but seasick. Just a klick more down the road and almost flat and both face the same direction. Went back to the 1st spot and gave it a go. It was good not great. Strikes and gutters. Either a good ride or a beat down and you didn't know until you went. Rode my shorty and was thankful for nose flip. Just felt confident on the steep drops.
The whole time I was thinking if it was better at the primo but I heard it wasn't. Headed to a worksite near another good break.
Helped finish up the day there and went at it at the far end of my Island where it should have been bigger but it just wasn't
I think the outgoing was draining the energy or the swell angle was just off. Ended up surfing the fish in some waist to chest high funky ones. After that I headed to another job and worked until after midnight.
Woke up early and cranky but I checked in again because I gotta surf. Yous know what I mean. Went right to the same places as yesterday morning but the wind was wrecking a good swell. Didn't pull the trigger cause I was kinda beat. Now I'm at work and disgusted with myself. I will drink tonight.
So far this was a weird swell for my island. Glad you guys got it though.
Epic end to summer , dredging rights , hard offshores , and 200 of my best friends !
In NJ? Everyone on my island was talking about heading there yesterday.
I'm on the beach right now. Bassmons go to. Pretty fun. But kinda dangerous. 1st wave was a big gnarly. Made the steep and deep drop and turned into a pitching wedge. Made it by the skin of my teeth. 2nd was the same but I got wrecked and put my knee into the rail of my good wave shorty. It's a bad ding pissing water as I squeeze it.
Only other board is my Bonzer. Stayed out the back and waited for bombs. Got a couple. Got in early and just freight trained hrough without a turn but making It all the way. Made me do the I love this stick thing( see the lighter side). Thanks for the laugh Antione. Bigger sets are getting scarce. And this board don't like small waves. Taking a coffee break watching this guy getting stuck in the sand. Glad I went but know I'm done.
I'll say it again. This swell was weird.
Get some dudes.
Photog Tim Torcia
Yes PJ ,fyi the beach replenishment has wiped out most of our east swell breaks .The surf crowd focuses on the few remaining spots creating a Malibu type scene.
Today I stuffed myself at the surf trough, then I stuffed myself some more.
Headed out south of the city this afternoon some decent waves to start but it got pretty choppy as the day went on. The cleaner Humberto swell had already moved north but got a few fun ones. Morning would have been better but family stuff was the priority.
The Point Judith cam has just shown So Cal density when I've checked over the past two days. Great spot but so, so many people. I assume the Wall up in Hampton was like as well.
I don't even know etc that meens
Awesome first surf in Florida
Same here dude.
Liking the posts.
Had 2nd helping myself today. Got home from the 1st surf, ate, and mowed. Packed up the family for funday on the beach. Caught a bunch on the fish. The boy got his share. And a straight up pummeling on the boogie. Tide pools were full of kids paddling their parents boards around and standing up. My little girl would paddle and stand up parallel, then wiggle the board across the pond. Good times with good folks. Back home for a steak listening to 70's classics and drinking wine.
Turned out to be a nice day.
Got a ding to fix before the next round.
Keep them stories flowing dudes.
Didn't know Point J had a surf cam, that sucks, no doubt one of the