who here has been surfing this week?

Discussion in 'All Discussions' started by Peajay4060, Jan 14, 2015.

  1. Manik

    Manik Well-Known Member

    381
    Dec 25, 2015
    Reasons it was crowded. Almost paddled out there yesterday but glad I took a look at another spot, only a handful out and it was a lot of fun. Got a solid wall to carve as soon as I got to the lineup, my first wave in over a month. Got my fill after a few hours, shoulders aching this morning.
    Surfing has taken a backseat to life lately, spent a chunk of the summer taking care of my pops and back to chasing the all mighty dollar to stay on top of bills.
    Did have a great day with my k
     
    Wavestrom likes this.
  2. Manik

    Manik Well-Known Member

    381
    Dec 25, 2015
    Kid blue crabbing, they are running thick, good eats
     

  3. Wavestrom

    Wavestrom Well-Known Member

    447
    Jul 5, 2014
    I'd been out both in MA and RI two weeks ago and it was wetsuit temps everywhere. This weekend I was dying in my 2.5m wetsuite in MA - weird upwelling of warm water or gulf stream water blown in by Humbertor or something but it was tough. Being too hot is worse than cold when surfing, at least for an hour or two.
     
  4. sigmund

    sigmund Well-Known Member

    Dec 7, 2015
    [​IMG]
     
  5. Peajay4060

    Peajay4060 Well-Known Member

    Nov 14, 2011
    I've had on a full suit in the mornings. It's been chilly and dry here. Perfect fall weather. Trunks @ midday when the sun is high and a shorty in the evening as it starts to cool off again.
    I think the water temp here has been constant and warm. It's been the air temps for me.
     
  6. JayD

    JayD Well-Known Member

    Feb 6, 2012
    Still in surf trunks. 2mm top last week in the AM when the air was nippy!!!
     
  7. LBCrew

    LBCrew Well-Known Member

    Aug 12, 2009
    Trunks or shortie, depending on air temp. Water's still a balmy 70ish.
     
  8. curl

    curl Well-Known Member

    113
    Apr 30, 2013
    Surfs coming up LB , new push from the se , winds up too .
     
  9. NNYNJ

    NNYNJ Well-Known Member

    928
    Dec 22, 2017
    Fished Sunday AM a couple of miles off MB... Water didn't get below 72
     
  10. UnfurleD

    UnfurleD Well-Known Member

    871
    Jul 13, 2016
    jerry providing. went out yesterday evening for a quick session while the fam's in town. took out the 6'9 fisch n tho textured, size was credible at waist to chest. drift south until it stopped at 13th. that's because it shifted onshore, as was the case this morning, which was clean and waist to chest hi. had some funyuns that i haven't been able to close out, but plenty of wipeouts and smooth lines. it's been good
     
    Notaseal likes this.
  11. Peajay4060

    Peajay4060 Well-Known Member

    Nov 14, 2011
    What's Happening? Surfs up!
    This story begins with that bad ding that's not fixed. Figured I got a whole stack of boards I never ride. Mostly because I think I can't anymore and I'll just have a bad surf. Not having another regular short board made it easier to give one a go. It was either that or surf the fish. So today I surfed windy overhead death bombs on a 6'2"x 18 3/4 x 2 1/4 double wing swallow tailed thruster from way back in the day. Don't know the volume but it can't be a lot. Mid 20's? Been surfing 32 to 34. I was up to my armpits when sitting on it. Paddled OK. Duck dived great. Had to be deep in it to go. Ate it a couple of times because it felt squirrely. Had a couple of rights and lefts that were OK. It was a strong swell so once up and going the board went. The narrowness of it made it turn on a dime. I forgot what it was like to lay those channels into one.
    The story ends with a bomb left with a steep drop with my feet placed just right. It all clicked and for few seconds I was 25 year old PJ. A good bottom turn and timed the top turn just right. Felt vertical. Came down and got to run the wall to end it with a floater on my feet. Gotta couple of "good one"s from the line up. Sometimes it is just one wave that makes a good surf. Tired out not to long after. Couldn't paddle that thing against the drift.
    Caught one in and had a beer on the beach. Miller Lite never tasted so good.

    Going to have to surf these boards more often. Got a 6'6"x 18 1/4"x 2 1/4 rounded pin that might have a couple of waves left in it.

    Hope you guys are getting it. I'm going tomorrow.
     
    Last edited: Sep 24, 2019
    ukelelesurf, JayD and Notaseal like this.
  12. CJsurf

    CJsurf Well-Known Member

    Apr 28, 2014
    Pretty fun last night before dark right at the end of my street.
     
    Zeroevol likes this.
  13. Zeroevol

    Zeroevol Well-Known Member

    Jun 22, 2009
  14. Krappenschitz

    Krappenschitz Well-Known Member

    70
    Mar 11, 2010
    Does anyone know who was taking photos on the south side of the pipe on the S.L/Sea Girt border on the morning of 9/20/19? Mr. Ben Gravy was on the north side at the time but this fella was shooting people on the south side.
     
  15. Mitchell

    Mitchell Well-Known Member

    Jan 5, 2009
    Delmarva yesterday. This latest swell from Jerry - long period but steep south angle - was solid (head high to a bit overhead) at some spots and small (waist high) at others really close by. Its interesting how much the deep water energy is effected by bottom contours. Shot this around 3 p.m. paddled out and sea breeze came up and turn up the texture quite a bit.

    [​IMG]
     
    DosXX likes this.
  16. CJsurf

    CJsurf Well-Known Member

    Apr 28, 2014
  17. Peajay4060

    Peajay4060 Well-Known Member

    Nov 14, 2011
    Couldn't agree more Mitchell,
    Differences in size around here from spot to spot are crazy right now. Nice shot BTW.


    I had a great surf this morning. Light winds and overhead surf pumping from way out side and peeling real fast for hundreds of yards and never losing it's size. Only a handful of dudes out. I think a lot of folks were barrel hunting and there were no barrels where I was. It was a hard surf. Rode the bonzer because of its long rail line and speed. Still had a hard time keeping up and that board never fails. Catching the wave and making the drop was easy but the wave face was so long you had to draw a high line right away and get going or it would leave you behind. Even when you got dusted you still had a long ride. It was a speed run all the way with some quick turns until you gassed. If you made to the end you were in this dead zone. Either paddle all the way back or ride some white water until it died and paddle a long way in and walk back. That kept the wave count down some, I would stop and B.S. and hydrate, but once back out it wasn't long until you got another. Kept going till I had noodle arms and jelly legs. The nippy air had me in a full suit early and never changed as the sun came up. It just zapped my energy. I'm in my office. I'm not wearing socks.

    Heck of a day. The beach was full of butterflys.
    Hope you other guys got waves,
    PJ
     
    Notaseal and DosXX like this.
  18. curl

    curl Well-Known Member

    113
    Apr 30, 2013
  19. curl

    curl Well-Known Member

    113
    Apr 30, 2013
  20. CJsurf

    CJsurf Well-Known Member

    Apr 28, 2014