who here has been surfing this week?

Discussion in 'All Discussions' started by Peajay4060, Jan 14, 2015.

  1. Peajay4060

    Peajay4060 Well-Known Member

    Nov 14, 2011
    Day 2 of this swell was a little Bigger than yesterday with a lot more water moving around. Head high at the drop. Rain, Heavy winds and a fast sweep. Left a car way down and drove back up to paddle out. Drifted a couple of miles. Used to be that I would try to catch a wave per street but I went a couple of blocks without a wave. I don't catch as many as I used too. Sometimes I would go a few blocks before connecting with one. The drops were still steep but the angle changed a little from yesterday. I fell less and after the bombing part there was a longer fun wall to turn on. Chickened out on going on a totally makeable bomb. Woulda been great. Nice to have a ride back and a warm shower right after. Today is a chicken soup day.

    Getting bigger by the hour here right now and the wind is strong off shore with a touch of east on it. I guess it's from a nor'easter? Cool. Can't wait to see what tomorrow brings.
     
    CaptJAQ, Notaseal and antoine like this.
  2. Peajay4060

    Peajay4060 Well-Known Member

    Nov 14, 2011
    What's happening?

    You may have already seen some stuff about what went down on my island. All I I'll say is that it is all true. It was the biggest, hollowest waves I've ever seen break here. Honestly it might be the biggest hollowest waves I've seen anywhere in real life and I've been around.

    It all went down for the last three days at that spot I was surfed two posts ago. I was there for all of it. Was out with the pros and the bros the cameras and the skis. This spot was the only one really holding the swell. Everywhere else was still good, but it wasn't what this place was. It was breaking close to shore. The paddle outs were pretty easy. About my surfing I would say I got my shacks. But I didn't make alot of them. Catching one was easy. There were plenty of them. Many times though after getting into one I was so deep in the tube I saw the exit but just couldn't get there. It was like a horror movie when the hallway gets really long. I just wasn't quick enough.

    I wasn't the only one But some dudes got the deepest pits I've ever seen. Not just the pros either. Gotta say I felt my age out there. Not to many older dudes out.

    I didn't surf today. Surfed out.
     
    antoine likes this.

  3. CJsurf

    CJsurf Well-Known Member

    Apr 28, 2014
    Couple of shots from Saturday in AC.

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    Video frame grab.

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  4. CJsurf

    CJsurf Well-Known Member

    Apr 28, 2014
    Couple of shots from the NSSA NorthEast High School Championships yesterday in Spring Lake.

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