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Discussion in 'All Discussions' started by Peajay4060, Jan 14, 2015.
Son number 1, a mechanical engineer / physicist , and employed !
Is this recent? Looks friggin cold.
Yes , it was a cold howling wind , water broke 60 s finally , prob mid 50s now
that's one of the suiter shots i've seen on here. good stuff, curl
Brutal cold this afternoon. This was a heavy one.
Got a really good barrel at the jetty yesterday. Only got yelled at twice.
brutal cold sess Sunday morning. no gloves, no booties, just my hot 4/3 on - looking good. hopped in a car w a buddy to park on 8th E, expecting the drift to take me back to my place by the pier. what i didn't account for is the 8 degree drop in water temp in the past week. def coulda used some booties, gloves, and a head cap. brutal, 20+ mph side shore winds. took the LB out on that one, had some fun long rides tho they mushed out. i was pretty delirious thru that whole sess. went back out several hours later with an another guy by the pier - winds died down a bunch. took a larger NSP since it was approaching low tide and that board is indestructible, and needed the size to get on it. had my gloves on, felt a bit better but glad to get out there no doubt. i could use some more warm sunshine in my life tho
Finally got some surf on my island the last couple days. Been almost a month since I paddled out last. Limited daylight and other doings kept me dry but there wasn't much swell either. This is gonna be a long one.
The nor'easter started to show Sunday here. Nor'easter surf is rugged dude. It comes in large, shifty and fast with a ton of juice behind it. It comes with a cold wind that goes right through you. Was able to get on it Sunday morning. It was about head high and still pretty raw. I think it was 30 degrees out. Thicker rubber and boots and put on some gloves too. With the thicker rubber and a month of not surfing I chose a board that doesn't need as much rider input to make waves, a 70's styled bonzer with heavy glass. Got a few good waves but had trouble being in just the right spot at take off. The good spot was just always a little deeper than I could or want to get into. A couple I was in the right spot but just couldn't get myself to go over the ledge. Felt the drops were too fast and steep for me to make. I only had the morning but I stopped over to see what the afternoon looked like on the way to dinner at Grandma's. It was perfect head high cold glassy barrels. Didn't feel too bad about it as it was only get better the next day.
Yesterday morning was a cold rainy day. A couple of feet overhead and clean. I didn't go at dawn. It was cold, The wind was a little squirrely, and the tide was dead low. I wanted a little more tide to make the drops a little easier. An easy paddle out surprised the heck out me but the drift and the shifty peaks left me without a wave for about a half mile. Right where the beach shifts alittle in direction I got a little one. Then I got a bomb with a short ride which put me right into the impact zone for three right on the head. That beating put me into a good space in my head. I got back out and got into it good. Went deep on one and had a speed run. The bonzer was hitting that fifth gear. Went across a whole beach into a rock pile. Was at that point where you have to make a decision to head in to avoid the rocks or try to make it around. Knew if I went in I might of called it and walked back so I went for it. Made it back out but by a pretty sketchy margin and found a perfect bomber right at the tip of the rock pile. I just turned and hucked myself over the ledge. Just made it at the bottom in front of the rocks and cranked a turn and it was all opened up. Hooted myself up the whole way. My heart was in my throat and I was just laughing my ass off when I got back out.
Caught another and saw I was about two miles away from my car. Headed in for the long cold walk back. Halfway back and right about where I started to get waves, I ran into a couple of bros about to head out. So I went out again for a few more. Thankfully another easy paddle out. My confidence was up and I got a few more really good waves but man was I zapped. Got a little runner that I could do some turns on and rode it all the wave to the beach. A long walk back and a rough time getting out of the thick rubber. I'd surfed about 5 hours. Didn't catch a ton of waves but the ones I got were great. I slept good last night. I gotta say I'm ready for an easy surf. Like a long board day with the sun out would be nice.
Get yours guys, post up when you do.
Some fun ones today ... but I’m with peajay, I haven’t surfed in a few weeks due to daylight and swell timing and other commitments... but have been fishing a lot lately...
last time surfing I was just in a 3/2!! Err so not excited about the 4/3 boots and gloves... but better then the 5. Anyways feeling totally worn out and felt so out of shape. Got a hand full of fun ones, but a lot of closeouts too. Was refreshing to be in the water and was warm with 50 degree air...
Same here... There were still some fun sets coming through, but the period and direction made for mostly racy, unmakable waves. Surfed 'till dark after work and only got 3 or 4 good waves.
Thats what I saw too.. swell direction, period and sand were not set up well... good to hear that you noticed too since I was blaming a lot of my not making waves on a lack of not surfing in the past few weeks (and the wetsuite)
Paddled out early alone , well not quite , the biggest seal I have seen outside of Cali showed up . Spooked me too , it was clear it was extremely curious about me
Man reading your guys stories about this swell and wave counts made me feel better bout myself and my wave counts.
i ran out for a lil bit in the middle of the afternoon. Hoping the incoming tide would build up, but i went out early in case wind shuffled some things up. Took the LB for safe measure and to the otherside of the pier away from the groupies, also for safe measure. Caught thi hi's that came in in sets, rights n lefts attainable. Created some silky smooth lines. had the 4/3 but no booties or gloves, which was manageable in the sun
Fun little clean peelers yesterday during the bottom half of the incoming tide. Waist to chest high south swell, with light offshores. Slid a few on the log. Nobody out.
Howling offshore winds in RI made for a lot of paddling and a lot of blown take-offs, still good to get out there.
Hoping to catch the same swell north of the city with the same wind issues tomorrow.
It was in fact worse north of the city today and colder but hey, that's what at the pie was for yesterday, to fuel up to stay warm. Went to one place, more than a few people out in spite of the subpar conditions. Drove by a second place on the way home which looked so much better but I was not going to change out the 38˚ air with 20mph winds twice.
Saw a guy out with no hood. Total madness. I think I got bony growths in my ear just looking at him.
Fun bump yesterday morning. Got a couple of hours in down the street from my house.