Had a great time at surfing santa, Arrived around 9 with 10 to 15 mph offshore but the swell pushed through and offered up some fun rides. stomach high and fairly lined up so longboard was the call for most, especially in christmas attire. Cloudy most of the day but the music and good times overcame that without a problem. It was good to reunite with some locals and meet new folks as well.
saturday was nice, had to do it twice. morning sess at the washout into hi tide. Took out the LB and the NSP. small south drift, but not too crowded. about waist hi, inconsistent, long drawn out sets. wasn't pretty, but it got me feeling right. late call from a buddy for an evening sess down the street by the pier. angle was hitting better and size stayed the same right after lo tide. took out the longer fish board aka Hog Molly and rode bout it til dark. sunday didn't materialize as well, but was content with Saturday's warm weather n the low's swell input. good times
My daughter said she was so cold that she was numb before she even hit the water so the water didn't feel so bad. Perhaps also a factor as the water was warmer than the air.
had a pop up of swell on Saturday from waist to chest. usually the perfect medium for me to reign terror on mother ocean. went out the morning and the evening at the washout. bit of a nothernly drift which is rare. haven't seen the washout that packed (in the morning) in a long time, probably that crowded two other times that i can recall. luckily no snakes or dings incurred. gotta a screaming 70 yd dash to the right, got tunnel vision twice en route. was a good morning and it panned out for an evening session with more texture, same size. sunset was an orangey awesome too. took out the 6'9 greg loehr both sessions, the right board for that day no doubt
i took a sick day Friday cuz a) waves b) 70 degree weather c) no rain. i've been on the 6'9 greg loehr fish all wknd, went sat & sun. it handled the waves well with a lil paddle help and going down the line quick enough to pass the onslaught. also took out the 6'4 perfection and 6'2 pride board, but they didn't come close to what i was able bring out on the loehr board. waves all wknd about chest hi - started to hit it at lo tide as there was too much water on hi tide that it became jumbled up and disorganized. Had some fun quick shots down the line and a couple that i got to cutback several times. it's going off all week - swellinfo surf forecast is surprisingly off tomorrow for whatever reason - and i'm praying for waves to stay thru the wknd so i can get some
Solid overhead swell and offshore yesterday... but super racy and dredging at my local. Aside from a few shoulder hoppers, no good rides. In fact... I'm actually feeling pretty beat up today.
Thanks for sharing- I ended up missing Sunday, I was bummed since it was so warm out and I love surfing hard offshores - but my beach looked the same as you described so I’m not so bummed lol puts the mind at ease....
Yea... There were some gems out there for sure. I just didn't luck into any good ones. Probably trying too hard... if you know what I mean. Taking off too deep... going on ones I shouldn't have... I should have just hung on the edge and been satisfied with that.
Guessing that is somewhere in North Jersey? We had waves in my town but nothing even remotely like that. Head high and the shape wasn't great.
