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Discussion in 'All Discussions' started by Peajay4060, Jan 14, 2015.
My wife works in the finance dept at Blue Cross , coming home with a treble thru my thumb I wake her . Its 2am and let her know I am off to the ER. She says half asleep , wait till 6 its only 50 bucjk than . The treble was thru my thumb and coming out in the middle of the nail .
My neighbor came to my door one summer evening... "knock, knock, knock"
"Hey, Mike... come on in."
"Hey... sorry to bother you, but.. you got a pair of wire cutters?"
"Yea, sure Mike... in the garage."
"Good... do you think you can snip this thing off right here..."
(shows me his hand... he has a single hook through the meat of his thumb and through the base of his index finger, pinning them together in a tight 'ok' sign)
"There you go, bud..."
"Thanks, man... want some fish?"
Flying back home to Florida from surfing the cristobal swell. Pixked the right town in surfside texas and got it clean and lined up at 6 to 8ft on Sunday and a bit disorganized on Saturday. Surfed with a buddy of mine who works the oil rigs and he was a great host ..one of those guys who knows everyone. Sunday my wave of the day was my second wave. I had to paddle down the face of the wave with the offshore breeze trying to push you back over the top! As I dropped in On the wave it walled up and had a open face for a long long way and as I approached the end of the face I cut back left as it reformed and fired all the way back to where I began. We sat way outside like maybe 3/4 mile and shared stoke while we waited for the bombs to roll in. A great big thanks to my buddy who just might be the king of gulf coast surfing!
Never thought I'd be surfing texas. Never count anyplace out. Hope you all had a great weekend
For two days in late May this spot was stellar offering a barrel in the first section followed by endless turns down the point like sand bar. Rare bird.
Same spot. This is what the first section was like. Did not post the shot above at the time because I didn't want to spot burn it. Will probably be a long long time before it breaks remotely like this again.
Got out three times in the past 10 days down in RI. Water in that time went from boots def. a plus to no boots and damn near ready for a summer weight suit today. Limited parking means less people surfing - a win for rich bastards and locals I suppose. I'll take it. Hope you're all staying well.
Hey everyone! I hope everybody got to Surf this weekend it was nice down here in Central Florida weather wise. Search for me this weekend was mediocre at best. Just too much of the wrong wind with too little of a good ground swell. You seem to be mostly Nearshore wind swell and just kind of disorganized and lackluster. Now with all that being said I still went out and surfed and had a good time and there's always a few good waves in those mediocre sessions that make you happy. But to be honest just being in the water and away from the crowds as much as possible always makes me happy. Looking forward to hearing of your surf weekend and how things went for you guys
I surfed the incoming tide late morning on Friday at my normal summer beach (no jetties or wind protection, just a short bike ride away). The wind was light to moderate offshore and there was nobody out. It was small but super fun for the log, and I was able to practice walking. My cross step forward is decent, but I'm still shuffling back to the tail for turns. And of course, my wife tells me I do stupid stuff with my arms, so I guess my style needs work too. Still, had a couple decent, short nose rides and didn't have to worry about weaving through a bunch of kids, so I was really happy.
Steef... try to step back by placing your feet in the exact footsteps of your steps up. Practice by doing just one cross step forward, and one cross step back. Then two... then three... or whatever it takes to get you to the nose. But to train your brain to do it right, just start out one step at a time.
Thanks, I'll definitely give that a try! When I see a good section, I usually get so excited I'll rush up and not stop and think about working on the mechanics like you've suggested. I'll focus on it next session!
This weekend was super fun. We had some wintertime patterns for some reason with some fun sized NW swell getting crossed up by some steep, long period, south swell. I went with low expectations on Saturday morning, taking the 7'2" and the 5'8" fish. From the bluff at Stacks it look like a fun, consistent waist high, so I grabbed the bigger board. After paddling out, I realized that the sets were closer to shoulder to head high and it was super clean. It turned out to be the best session that I've had in quite a while. I surfed for a good three hours until I was completely toast.
Sunday, I hit up the same spot with just the fish and it was about the same size, but kind of jumbled up from the winds overnight. Slid into a few good ones. Well worth the paddle out.
All in all, a great weekend of surf without the usual weekend crowds for some reason.
Sloppy bodysurfing waves yesterday. Good to just be in the water.
Been surfing a lot since our beaches re-opened. Man, it was a shock to the system to not be able to get in the ocean for a month+. TBH I don't know actually how long it was. Seemed like forever. It kind of renewed my stoke once I was finally able to get wet and go for a slide.
Surf in my neck of the Carolinas has been pretty awful for a week now but the little man is green for the next 2 mornings so i'm maintaining hope!
Still waves here, but we have some pesky south eddy winds. Didn't funk it up too bad this morning. Got a few good ones at the campground. Even had a stare down with Buckethead, one of the crusty locals. He yelled at me one time to stay the f*ck out of his way. I was going right and he was to my right, going left. I told him that he burned me and to chill out. Dude probably hasn't been laid in forever. I feel bad for him, but not bad enough to post pictures of my wife.
Forecast is down again. It's been minimal here in South Carolina the past week n a half. Looks to stay that way for another week
Tuesday night after work I checked the cam at my main spot. Looked junky as hell and the wind was gusting at 35kt.
There was a passing storm cell and I felt hopeful so we (wife and I) loaded up the van and headed to the beach. Checked the surf and it still looked like crap so we went to a spot closer to the jetty.
As we were driving the 1/4 mile to the next spot the storm passed right over head so we took our time getting down to the water.
By the time we got past the dunes the wind had switched and slowed to about 12kts. I paddled out my 9'6 and caught some big rolling nuggets that squared up on the sandbar for a little coverup at the end. From 7 till dark it just got better and cleaner. I caught dozens of waves and left the beach completely stoked.
I absolutely love scoring an "un-forecasted" session. Locals only.
Ben a while, and i was beat after. Just drained. Surfed hi tide at Washout on Folly, thi to waist hi's to where it became consistent waist hi rides. Weird northerly wind direction, almost side shore, with double lulls. Took out the 7'2 Hog Molly twin fin fish. Lil drift on it, and at first (2 hrs before hi tide) they were soft n short rides. But on the second session, i had several whereas i could pump into that second run off. Best wave was a pigdog floater just moving real slow then i got a bump into a curl, got under it and popped up did a couple carves back and forth to finish it off. It was one of those waves that shouldn't have worked but did. Same with today's swell, wasn't supposed to happen. In other words, stay woke amigos
Some classic summer LB waves this morning.... good times