who here has been surfing this week?

Visibilty went to poop here too. the bay side was a bit better. I was hoping to get a few sand crabs to fish but ended up pushing the kids into kiddy waves and body surfing. Caught a couple myself. Heck of a storm blew through at dusk and I bagged fishing in favor of sitting in the truck while it blew through and ate munchkins.

 

[QUOTE="UnfurleD, post: 536280, member: 50134" to get a little taste of glory just to see what it taste like[/QUOTE]

you won't find me "liking" many posts. Just not a "like" kinda dude. I enjoy almost all posts but this line just scratched me where i itch.

 

What's Happening?
Another Dusk session of pushing the little dude and dudette into little waves. Caught a few myself too. The Boy and I took an early bike ride then worked hard in the heat fixing up a swing with some rock walls. Going to have a full on ninja course by the end of it. As we surfed we talked about how important helpers are in getting the work done and what they can learn. We paddled outside to watched the sun dip and he said it was a good reward for a hard day.

Life lessons.

 

Small surf happening on my Island,

Been going on after the sun dips low lately. I've said this before but I like these sessions better. I feel loose and chill and got no place to be. Last two days my kids were at the beach all day so was solo after dinner. Went to a different spot that picks up these types of swells a little better. Monday had good size and a little push due to on-shores blowing all day. They let up some towards dark leaving a good peaky drop, a short wall and then some reform stuff. Decent long board stuff and maybe three heads in the water. Got out as the tide dropped to dead low and whole wave would just stand up and dump.

Went to that well again yesterday. A bigger cleaner wave. Good form. It just kinda lacked the juice it had the day before. Thought about taking a fish out but it had about 2 dozen dudes on it all huddled together on short equipment. Took The long board out and stayed off the group picking off good ones from outside. Was able to do those fading drop ins I dig so much and then turned into the peak to ride the wall trailing my hand in the wave face. Some LB floaters some nose rides. A bunch of good rides.

I always leave the beach before the Sun sets. Cruising with the windows down and listening to good tunes as the Sun and Sky does it's thing just makes a good surf even better.
Hope for more to come. hope yous get yours,
PJ

 

Deja Vu all over again last night. same type of waves. Same type of surfing. No complaints. Low tide moved into the dark so it was kinda full at 1st but no one was around so when good waves showed I went. Strong sun even late. Hope to get more again. Getting my situation ready for heavier stuff ahead.

 

@UnfurleD, couldn't find the pics on line but some nice work on there.

Good to see you guys are getting waves.

Yesterday was good here. The whole family was up and on the sand at dawn. I'm so proud. Longer period waist to chest high and clean. Rode short and long boards. Stayed on the inside till the tide let out and then was way out at sea on an outside bar. Dolphin swimming around. A little bigger out there but lully and a little soft.. Was on the LB and would catch one as it feathered and ran to the nose across the face. Then race to the tail and heave it back into the avalanche. Tried everything to stay with it to the inside but it was a long way. I don't think I was 50% successful. When I was I had to get back on the nose and wiggle the board down the face. Good long nose ride across the inside face but the wave had a wallop at the end. There was no escape. After a break I took the fish out and got a couple of inside runners and ran out of gas. The kids ripped the boogers on the inside all day. Just a heck of beach day. Ended with salad made from our garden with our first figs and a skirt steak on the grill. For dessert we had Marinos watermelon ices. I dumped mine in a large glass of Grey Goose. We slept good.

Still here now. It's cloudy and on shore pretty hard. Got a couple on the fish. It's wonky, there are double ups, and I got banged by a jelly. But its warm and clear and empty. Sitting here finishing my coffee before splitting. Thought I'd share the story fresh.

Not sure about this storm. May need to hunker down and maybe a clean up. Good luck dudes. And thanks for the updates. Gotta say I got a ton of waves this week because I read your stories and knew your waves were coming up to my island. We got the old coconut telegraph going on here.