who here has been surfing this week?

Discussion in 'All Discussions' started by Peajay4060, Jan 14, 2015.

  1. Peajay4060

    Peajay4060 Well-Known Member

    Nov 14, 2011
    What's happening?
    Whose been surfing.?

    Faye delivering some goods but the wind is still on shore and stiff. Big chunky junky monkeys. But the water is warm enough for trunks. And the surf was there. Rode a fish for the 1st time in a while. Had some fun this morning. I'm too beat too eat.
     
  2. UnfurleD

    UnfurleD Well-Known Member

    983
    Jul 13, 2016
    Stomach hi semi chop action dead at hi tide. Thought I'd miss it with wind approaching but was able to get a few good ones on the longer fish. Expectations are higher tomorrow early afternoon on Folly. Hopefully shorty approved
     
    antoine likes this.

  3. CJsurf

    CJsurf Well-Known Member

    Apr 28, 2014
    Looks really good this morning and super crowded. Feeling unmotivated and sore this morning. Just looking at the crowd is a total buzzkill. Will wait until this evening when the guards leave and hopefully a lot of these people will go back where they came from.
     
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  4. Carson

    Carson Well-Known Member

    338
    May 19, 2006
    West coast has gone flat. :(
     
  5. curl

    curl Well-Known Member

    210
    Apr 30, 2013
    You have had some good t looking swells Carson . We get those windows where the tide and winds dictate the quality .
     
    Carson likes this.
  6. curl

    curl Well-Known Member

    210
    Apr 30, 2013
    DD9AE58E-DE9E-4436-A869-51160163A9E1.jpeg Today was one of those days , buoys were 3 ft at 9 seconds. Solid overhead sets , warm water and 15 mph offshores . 75 of my best friends to make a perfect day .
     
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  7. UnfurleD

    UnfurleD Well-Known Member

    983
    Jul 13, 2016
    that's one of my fav photos I seen on here. Glad u scored
     
  8. UnfurleD

    UnfurleD Well-Known Member

    983
    Jul 13, 2016
    Shorty approved. Crowded yes but dammit if they get dem over me. Washout w a bruv n a couple tag alongs latr. 3 sessions. First ride on the lip of my 6'9 Greg loehr boart thru the first section, switched up changed course n took it to my backside to shore. Handful of great rides on 1st sess. Chest hi. Brought out the new toy, 6'3 alchemist on 2nd sess. Less desirable waves but Stoke was still on, nothing memorable. 3rd sess w a tag along, brought back the loehr. Flew fast on one, didn't think it could've been tbh, at least on dat ol skool boart, but brought back memmries of my fastest ride eva at Hermosa CR where I split my shorts. After a handful, my last ride was a floater on a shoulder hi drop. Wipeout? Ya betcha sweet arse. I'm the ricky bobby of drifting down the line fyi. Burnt forehead, ready to roll tomorrow early afternoon
     
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  9. Wavestrom

    Wavestrom Well-Known Member

    476
    Jul 5, 2014
    Got up early to get to the beach before the lot filled up. Water warm enough for board shorts and rash guard. Waves big and disorganized but still fun. Forgot how much more tiring it is to paddle around in hope instead of clean waves. Eastern RI looked better on the cams but eh, don't have a parking pass for over there and Pt. J was probably a madhouse.
     
    Carson likes this.
  10. CJsurf

    CJsurf Well-Known Member

    Apr 28, 2014
    Surfed for two hours before dark. Found a spot all to myself with a chest high wave coming in every few minutes. Getting new board dialed. On a sad note they were doing a water search for an apparent drowning victim nearby. There was a drowning in Ventnor this weekend too.
     
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  11. LBCrew

    LBCrew Well-Known Member

    Aug 12, 2009
    Got it good Saturday morning before the south wind came up... then scored perfect firing waves yesterday all day. So freakin' good... couldn't help but surf myself into a state of total exhaustion. Went home, took two Advil and a nap.
     
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  12. Carson

    Carson Well-Known Member

    338
    May 19, 2006
    You're right. I can't complain. It was good for quite a while. This should be just a brief respite before the South Pacific wave machine gets cranked up again. It will give me some more time to pine for my new custom boart that's currently being shaped...
     
    antoine likes this.
  13. headhigh

    headhigh Well-Known Member

    Jul 17, 2009
    Whew buddy, what a weekend.

    Started on Thursday evening, which I can hardly remember at this point. I did run into one of my old college professors in the lineup, which was cool. Longboard, lots of waves, surfed til dark.

    Friday evening, very similar conditions, but cleaner. Dropped into a few that were so glassy where the sunset glare hit just right and it totally whited out my vision. Sorry to that family in the shorebreak! (don't worry I just gave them a scare)

    Saturday was clean in the AM, a little bigger, but still not enough power for a fish (in my opinion). I ended up doing a early session run to the van to switch boards. Good choice I think.

    Sunday's swell had been on the forecast for a week so I drove north to a less crowded spot. Just the wife and I and clean waist to chest high waves all morning. So many waves. A few little tubes and noserides stick out but the rest is a blur of surf induced zen. Solid weekend.
     
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  14. UnfurleD

    UnfurleD Well-Known Member

    983
    Jul 13, 2016
    buddy bailed on washout, went out before the two of us, said it was crowded and took it to 10th E. During my lunch hour, i see it's as disorganized as it was by the pier all day. I paddled out regardless on the 6'3 alchemist, got one stomach hi ride and got the h out of the der. That guy had his wife and 7yr old kid in tow, both who can't surf diddly sht but cmon don't tell the two guys on their lunch break to go over there. Saw my buddy on the beach, told him to pack it up and get to 13th before the washout. Not crowded, but the conditions were bumpy as all hell. it was disorganized stomach to chest vs bumpy shoulder to head hi and i was down for the latter, as was my buddy. Had a few good rides, left and right, with a few cuts and almost a couple with big drop ins. All in all, it was good to have some. My buddy said he was gonna take his "last ride" in, he had a screamer to the left. So i waited for the set behind, and as i was about to drop in there's my bud paddling straight at me. Kook of the moment kinda stuff there, and i told him about it too. He said something along the lines of that one was so good that I... I ignored his ass after that
     
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  15. CJsurf

    CJsurf Well-Known Member

    Apr 28, 2014
    Some of the most fun and rippable waves in a long long time right at the end of my street. The crowds were elsewhere.Two weeks from now this break will be buried under mountains of sand not to emerge again for a couple of years. My youngest son powering through a cutback and my daughter hitting the lip in nearly the exact spot I first stood up on a surfboard in July of 1982.

    108382741_10213659096030490_3359980433676553145_o.jpg

    108520049_10213659095670481_3380970666568988223_o.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jul 13, 2020
    Carson, steef, headhigh and 2 others like this.
  16. LBCrew

    LBCrew Well-Known Member

    Aug 12, 2009
  17. UnfurleD

    UnfurleD Well-Known Member

    983
    Jul 13, 2016
    thi hi thrillers this morning. was a lil hesitant to go, maybe save some energy for the lunch sess but these mid july waves are gonna be gone real soon. I took the LB which was the right call. No drift today, pretty clean. Stayed a lil ways from the pier, had a decent ride bout it. Surprisingly, no weird marine life this early morning
     
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  18. steef

    steef Member

    17
    Sep 11, 2019
    Rode my bike down to my local spot this morning for a dawn patrol. Pretty much perfect light offshore winds, but the beach I go to in the summer doesn't handle low tide very well. Just the price I'm willing to pay to avoid the summer crowds. Had some quick rides on the 9'6" but ending the wave in knee deep water definitely makes you think twice about rushing up to the nose!
     
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  19. Peajay4060

    Peajay4060 Well-Known Member

    Nov 14, 2011
    hey nice stories.
    Got some this morning. good summer waves. Hiked into a place to get some exercise. would've like to LB cause of @headhigh but for carrying thatthing that far. Opted for a fish cause it's small and light. stayed by myself and had a few runners before a good walk back. Might go for the LB on a sunset run.

    nice day here.