who here has been surfing this week?

Well I haven't died from the cold yet! Still getting some longboard waves here borrowed my friends 72 fun board today and was still able to get some pretty fun rides as it was a little bit steeper today. The water still cold as hell and I'm still searching for my balls

 

I snorted. Well played.

 

Some very fast and powerful little waves in the dredge zone this morning.

 

.

 

Day 742. No waves in sight. Going to explore the other side of the island for some bananas.

 

Surfed yesterday at low and a bit of the incoming... was light onshore sloppy fun in the waist to belly high range. Long rides. Take off on a chunky, mushy peak on the outside... ride it until it started to fizzle out, then straighten out... then take it all the way in to the inside bar, then have a whole 'nother wave all the way to the beach. Wind came up in the afternoon and shut it down, but it was really fun for a couple hours.

Tomorrow should be interesting... then Tuesday we should have tiny little leftovers for the log.

 

Some heavy ones at the end of my street last night before dark. He stuck a very late fins free air drop on this one which I did not capture. No exit to be had but one of the crazier sessions I've seen at this spot in a few years. Rob Kelly has a few that made it look like Skeleton Bay. I'm sure he will be posting video from inside one of these beasts today.

 

had some weak ground swell, bout thi hi. Went in for the evening session on the LB with a buddy. They were somewhat manageable, part frustating (i hate small waves). Got stung twice, not bad ones tho. Leash came off twice, first time by the rocks. i freaked, see my board drifting right by it and my the leg wrap still on. Luckily, it didn't get dinged up - i like to think i grabbed it at the right time. When it came off the 2nd time, i took the leash off and moved a block to where no one was surfing - i'm not a fan of going leashless especially with a LB. As you can see from the pic, it's the little ball attachment that connects leg wrap and leash. What's the remedy to this? I figured clamp, but maybe it can be fixed another way... I got another LB leash if needs be

 

i don't. I surfed this morning on the other leash on the LB. I thought it was one of the those "How old were you when you figured out this...". Didn't want to discard until i heard for sure it's a bust. Think i had it for about 5 yrs, but that was the first time it busted on me like that. Furthermore, notch bigger this AM. Long lulls, thi+ hi waves. Not shabby

 

I've had probably that same brand leash do the same thing. The swivel is held in with set screws. Remove the screws. Remove the remaining pieces of the swivel. Take what's left of the swivel to a tackle store that caters to offshore fishing. Match it up with the other swivels until you find a match. They are a common swivel used in fishing for marlin and tuna.

 

Sup?

Surfed a bit this weekend. Nothing like you guys had up north.

There was some tiny wind-swell from a storm just of the coast. Saturday we went out front just before a heavy storm passed over. The wind was blowing sideshore making the small waves look very unappealing. Waited out the thunder and lightning in the van for a half hour or so, then when the sun started to peak thru we went and checked it again. This time it was complete glass. No wind at all. So we paddled out and had a nice little session before the wind picked up out of the south again.

Sunday we opted for a more high-tide friendly spot to the north. Lot's of bait fish in the water and the same weak waves. We surfed for a couple hours until a heavy storm came over us. It wasn't thundering too bad so we stayed out as long as we could stand but the wind just kept getting worse. On the way back to the van we had to cross a 2 lane road that is normally empty but there was a rush of people getting off the island. At the first break in traffic I go for the opposite side of the road, keep in mind it's still pouring rain and blowing like 15 mph.

I'm jogging to the shoulder of the road and hop onto the curb, but gravity does not cooperate and my beater longboard slips out of my hand and **CRACK** makes solid contact with the curb. My wife bursts out with laughter. I look over my shoulder at the line of cars that just saw me drop it. The board has a nice crack near the tail and scrapes all the way up the rail to a smaller crack on the nose, but neither can compare with the bruise to my ego. It's been a good 10 years since I f'ed up this bad so I guess I was due.

We make it back to the van and both have a good laugh at my misfortune on the ride home. We stop at Taco Bell for lunch and spend the rest of the day watching classic action movies. First we watched Commando, then we watched Universal Soldier. Dude, Commando is such a great movie. Did not expect the comic relief to be so on point.

Anywho, I have a shed full of sarf boarts and everything I need to repair the damage so no harm done. Maybe I'll do another ding repair write-up.

 

Last night cleaned up. Josephine swell. Got bout chest hi. Had a couple buddies in tow, took out the 6'9 loehr boart. I had several great waves, carved out to shore. Just some beautiful lines, several of us had a great time. One guy who just got back in town had the roughest time getting back in surf shape, he caught one wave. He's used to his LB, so the smaller 7' fun shape didn't do him wonders. Went out early this morning on 10th, but it was knee hi. Shed some pounds back at the house, and went back to yesterday's spot - Elektric Ave aka 13th st. Just one dude out there and as soon as i put in, a swarm of 20 or so ppl haha. I felt bad for that guy, but he and i just stayed next to a jetty that didn't get crowded. Took the LB and had a few good rides. While there was some lightning in the distance yesterday, the storm of lightning bolts this morning was coming our direction from sea. It looked gnar, and as soon as it came up close it created texture, lil chop and took some of the top of the waves. Didn't take me long to pack it in and call it what it was

 

Got out for about 50 minutes on my lunch break today. The tide was just getting low enough for the waves to break as I got out there. I paddled out into a wide open spot between 2 "peaks". I put that in parentheses because it breaks pretty much the same all over.

I started catching waves one right after the other. I didn't even sit on my board for the first 20 minutes or so. Then, as reliable as "old faithful", the guys crowded around the peaks start making their way towards me. Before I know it, I am sitting in the middle of the pack, with one guy 10 feet directly inside of me. Dude, I'm on a 9'6 with no rocker and I'm catching a s*** ton of waves, why on earth would you think that is a good place to sit? I let a few smaller ones go but I'm on every set wave. I even blow a few working on my cross-step.

I was watching the clock and finally I had to get out. So I turn and paddle for a wave as 3 other people go for it and stand up. F*** it. I pop up and don't look back.

Made it to the van, quickly change and I'm headed home. I make it back to the computer with 10 minutes to spare before my next meeting. Trying to make this "new normal" of working from home a bit more surf oriented, but I'm still working out the kinks.

 

Sloppy little waves again yesterday... took the 8'0. Thing catches waves like a soft top.

The sand really moved around with that last TS. That on top of the typical summer beach profile is making low tide break like high.

 

LB , solid TS swell , 11 sec with a 6 ft swell . Ventured into your neck of the woods to surf freight trains .