who here has been surfing this week?

Discussion in 'All Discussions' started by Peajay4060, Jan 14, 2015.

  1. headhigh

    headhigh Well-Known Member

    Jul 17, 2009
    Isaias produced all weekend. Saturday I went north to my favorite free-parking un-crowded spot. I call this particular spot "watermelons" because there's 2 little beach cottages; one pink and one lime green. Just the wife and I for 3 hours in some nice sized surf. Mellow takeoffs, picking up speed the whole way in. The way the waves were breaking, the cloudy skies, and the murky water reminded me of small days at Playa Guiones, Costa Rica. Man, I'm itching to take a trip. Even just to Cali. ******* pandemic.

    Sunday I stayed closer to home. Solid swell but very longboard friendly. Surfed until I couldn't lift my arms.

    Side note: They just raised parking at my local spot to $5 on hour. A little more and I'll be paying minimum wage just to park there.
     
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  2. LBCrew

    LBCrew Well-Known Member

    Aug 12, 2009
    Fun south swell today in the waist to belly high range... occasional chest... with light offshores until this afternoon. Water got COLD though. Took the fish out for the bottom half of the outgoing, and had it all to me-self. Felt really loose and dialed in... just one of those sessions where everything was clicking. Best wave was a nice, 3-turn frontside runner with a big hack at the end. Felt good to be able to do some full-force turns... been a while. I got out of the water and some guy was like... "DUDE! YOU WERE SHREDDING OUT THERE! THAT WAS CRAZY!" Can't remember the last time that happened... lol!
     
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  3. SCOB3YVILLE

    SCOB3YVILLE Well-Known Member

    661
    Nov 16, 2016
    I got to do a full rail to tail turn on my shortboard two days ago. It’s been terrible in San Diego except for that one run of swell. After 62 days of not surfing because of the foot injury,I got an unexpected session of really fun waves.

    Took out the 5’10 Puddle jumper and had a Peak to myself for an hour and a half. Felt good to get some quality waves. Wind was light, Sets were consistent enough not to make you think how long your last wave was.
     
  4. Carson

    Carson Well-Known Member

    387
    May 19, 2006
    Today???
     
  5. SCOB3YVILLE

    SCOB3YVILLE Well-Known Member

    661
    Nov 16, 2016
    Nah, Saturday evening.
    Forecast looks like we’re gonna have some fun for the rest of August
     
  6. Carson

    Carson Well-Known Member

    387
    May 19, 2006
    ahh..

    Yeah, little bump tomorrow, but then next week looks to pick up real nice.
     
  7. Peajay4060

    Peajay4060 Well-Known Member

    Nov 14, 2011
    Got in late afternoon on the mid to high tide. found some waves about Chest high. A bit wonky with the high tide and side shore wind but fun on a fish. Stayed there for a short bit but with a short beach a full moon storm tide coming and very soft sand I couldn't relax. kept thinking about getting stuck. So I got a good one, headed in and Got out of there.

    Headed over to another spot with a bigger beach. Didn't expect much with the tide but they were OK. Got a few on the long board. Something caught my eye on the way back out. Found a 11 ft surf rod just floating around! Paddled toward it and was ready to catch whatever was still on it. Nothing. caught one in with rod in hand. No one claimed it so it's mine. The rod is OK and it had an old green Penn 704. Going to flush it out and grease it. Good Live Dead for the ride home and a sick sun burst poking through the hazy clouds made the ride home alright. Wife made some of our summer squash into noodles mixed with some angel hair and couple of sausages on the grill. Hatches are battened down. See you on the other side.
    PJ
     
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  8. Carson

    Carson Well-Known Member

    387
    May 19, 2006
    I really wish you would surf every day so I can read your recaps.
     
  9. Peajay4060

    Peajay4060 Well-Known Member

    Nov 14, 2011
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  10. UnfurleD

    UnfurleD Well-Known Member

    Jul 13, 2016
    Isle of Palms just got rid of their free parking. Folly has been in a habit of following their ideas since pandemic, which is weird cuz tourists/ppl that go to IOP don't come to Folly unless it's a good storm surf sess. Parking on Folly is still brutal, one street for free parking unless you're a FB resident, then it's $150 tix being handed out. Just american greed, can't put the blame on the pandemic for assonine parking prices
     
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  11. UnfurleD

    UnfurleD Well-Known Member

    Jul 13, 2016
    oh yea, 4 of us went out to the end of E. Arctic Ave (free parking street) cuz i didn't want to drive. Walk to Washout from there for an evening sess. Bumpy but waves were manageable. Think we all got some goods. Boards ranged from a 5'6 puddle jumper to a 9'4 LB. Not a lotta ppl out there so we weren't getting looks with our board variety. That seemed to be it tho for us. It was weak n chop this morning, got wet for a couple but yesterday evening there were some decent rides. So in conclusion, waves the day before and day after of Isaias. Hope yall up north stay safe and shred some
     
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  12. headhigh

    headhigh Well-Known Member

    Jul 17, 2009
    I still can't pronounce it correctly but Isaias turned out to be a major winner.

    Monday night the storm came thru: She came ashore just south of me with 80-mph sustained winds. We just missed the eye and ended up grinding thru the eye-wall on the eastern side. Yard looks like someone dumped a truckload of leaf clippings and sticks but no major damage at all.

    Then there was the after-swell. We woke up Tuesday morning with no power, no internet, and cell phone internet was too slow to use. I got the surf report via text from a friend on the island. We were in the van, on the way to the beach 15 minutes later. Traffic lights out all the way to the beach. In this town people can't drive for **** even on a good day, so it was a bit sketchy navigating the 4 way stops.

    Fortunately for me, when folks see 3 tons of vintage steel heading their way they tend to make way.

    The surf was simply perfect (by local standards), and the weather was on point as well. Usually after a storm I catch some blown out crumbs but not today. It was chest high+ all morning, light offshores, and bright sun. It was one of those days where I get so zenned out that by the time I make it out to the lineup after the wave I have completely forgotten the wave I just rode. I finally got some good down-the-line-waves to noseride, and some super memorable hacks as well. I was doing things I didn't know I was capable of.

    To top it all off, after the sesh I ran into my old college prof again. He told he saw me catch some bombs and that I had great style on the longboard (!!:eek:!!). This meant so much to me coming from a local surf elder and someone I have loads of respect for. I was over the moon.
     
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  13. curl

    curl Well-Known Member

    222
    Apr 30, 2013
  14. Carson

    Carson Well-Known Member

    387
    May 19, 2006
  15. headhigh

    headhigh Well-Known Member

    Jul 17, 2009
  16. Peajay4060

    Peajay4060 Well-Known Member

    Nov 14, 2011
    Good Stuff Dudes,

    The Storm blew inland right past the island. We had the back end of the wind field. It didn't seem it but the aftermath of the storm shows it was bad. Lots of downed wires and trees. We lost power for a bit but we are back up.

    It blew out towards the afternoon but the wind stayed stiff on shore and didn't let up at all later. I didn't check until the next morning. It had some size but it was still seasick with on shores. the good peaks were loaded with rippers dropping into one hit wonder waves. There was a hustle to it out there I couldn't jive with. Bailed to get stuff done and went later. Rolled up and out of the truck to see I had driven through a pile of poop. It wasn't dog poop. Surfed for an hour or so and got some halfway decent rides on the fish but nothing great. Dropped in on a dude. It wasn't on purpose but I knew he might have went. Got stuck in an hr long Jam on the way home. I live 10 minutes away. But was stuck on bridge with a cool breeze and good tunes and what not. It was rather enjoyable. Home just in time for my Lady's home made chicken burgers with a slice of a yellow tomato, fresh mozzarella, arugula with balsamic glaze. Cucumber salad and fries on the side. Big glass of vodka seltzer and lemonade. Cool enough to eat outdoors again. Sunset with a fire going and a cup of Joe. Put a scoop of Ice cream in mine.

    Strikes and gutters.
     
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  17. headhigh

    headhigh Well-Known Member

    Jul 17, 2009
    Went down for an after work session yesterday evening. The wind was blowing straight on shore about 6-8 mph, making it look not so appealing after the last week of awesome, but went for it anyway. After a stretch of good waves it's so easy to get lazy about surfing the less-than-perfect stuff.

    To my surprise it ended up being really fun. Long lines that looked like they were going to close out but stayed open for a turn or two, or a little cover-up.

    Surfed until the tide swallowed up the little wave and head home. I only have am/fm in the van, not even a cassette player, so I normally tune into the "jammin' oldies" station. To my delight they played some P-Funk and some Teena Marie. We surfed almost every day over the last 3 weeks and food stocks are running low. Managed to scrape together a gourmet meal: veggie burgers topped with bacon, and a tofu, tortellini, frozen peas, artichoke heart, and feta salad. It was actually pretty good. Washed it down with a pineapple Truly which was pretty not good. Ended the night falling asleep on the couch with my cat watching and old episode of "River Monsters". This last paragraph is inspired by @Peajay4060 :D
     
    Last edited: Aug 7, 2020
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  18. Carson

    Carson Well-Known Member

    387
    May 19, 2006
    We could all be a little more vulnerable. :)
     
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  19. Peajay4060

    Peajay4060 Well-Known Member

    Nov 14, 2011
    @headhigh "veggie burgers topped with bacon, and a tofu, tortellini, frozen peas, artichoke heart, and feta salad. It was actually pretty good."

    Darn right it was pretty good!. Veggie burgers topped with bacon..Right On! A good meal after a surf makes for a better surf. Good surf stories are better when you talk food. Extra credit for food story.

    I got that swell too. Not sure where it came from. Finished up early and took The Fam for a swim before dinner. Wasn't expecting much but it was just waist high and fairly clean. A nice A frame peak drew off the outer bar with a slow peeling wall that reformed inside to the beach. Easy Fading drop, get your hand into the face to stall a sec and get to the nose. Dropknee back into the soup to get to the reform and get that inside action with a little LB floater at the end. Too cool. I would get a few and then pass the board to the boy to get a few. The girls took turns booging on the old Mach-77. Left when we got hungry. My wife got into it in the kitchen as soon as we got home. Seafood paella. Fish market squid, shell fish got right out of the bay along with a monkfish. Finished up at the fire "pit". If its propane is it a pit? I'll use the fire pit tonight to burn all dead wood that fell.

    Always wanting more.
     
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  20. Carson

    Carson Well-Known Member

    387
    May 19, 2006
    Poetic.

    I have a Mach 7-SS in the garage.:)
     
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