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Discussion in 'All Discussions' started by Peajay4060, Jan 14, 2015.
Some very fast and powerful little waves in the dredge zone this morning.
On at the crack this morning. Kids set their alarm clocks. My girl was so chipper this morning. Mom and Dad were bleary eyed messes. Warm water, chilly air. Whole fam out in shorties. Clean waist to chest wrapping around a point and lighting up long sloe glassy rides at a great angle. Long board all the way. Crazy long nose rides today with not much cutting back. Just dropping in with a hand stall, walk up to the front porch and handle yourself.
After a while it slowed a bit and I caught up with the fam. They went exploring the tide pool and the end of the line. It's head high deep and loaded with critters. Then me and the boy paddled out together. Me on the big B and him on my old quad. I would get some and push him into others. At one point, we had to get out through a good chest high set. He was leashless and got pummeled but never lost the board. So proud. I went on the last one of the set and told him to chill and catch his breath. Ended up about a hundred yards away and on the way back another big set came through. I watched him paddle out a little to wisely get over the 1st and then turn and burn on the next. He missed but man was I so proud he had the stones to go. I got to him in time to push him into on of the last of that set and he was gone. I saw the top of his head a couple of times as he raced sections. Ride of the day for sure.
Spent the last of tide fooling around on the inside as the wind went strong side shore. The boy had some world class ones on the boog too. Doing spinners.
Broke camp as it was getting cloudy and the wind was kicking a sand storm. Sitting on the porch enjoying some mules as I report.Ice, vodka, lime juice, & ginger beer. Not ale.
No way can I take another crack at this evening. Well maybe.
Hell 'Toine...as long as you didn't leave your gnards in Mumbai I think you're gonna be fine.
Sounds as if West Coast waves have caught your fancy. If I place a (contactless) take-out order will you bring some back East?
Isle of Chiba has been dead flat and the parking severely restricted. Lockdown ends tomorrow so any help you can send will be appreciated. No waves since Isaias. I wish Betty would give TS Josephine her blessing.
P.S. May your God bless you with "Shrubbery" and Slide On!
Day 742. No waves in sight. Going to explore the other side of the island for some bananas.
Surfed yesterday at low and a bit of the incoming... was light onshore sloppy fun in the waist to belly high range. Long rides. Take off on a chunky, mushy peak on the outside... ride it until it started to fizzle out, then straighten out... then take it all the way in to the inside bar, then have a whole 'nother wave all the way to the beach. Wind came up in the afternoon and shut it down, but it was really fun for a couple hours.
Tomorrow should be interesting... then Tuesday we should have tiny little leftovers for the log.
Some heavy ones at the end of my street last night before dark. He stuck a very late fins free air drop on this one which I did not capture. No exit to be had but one of the crazier sessions I've seen at this spot in a few years. Rob Kelly has a few that made it look like Skeleton Bay. I'm sure he will be posting video from inside one of these beasts today.
had some weak ground swell, bout thi hi. Went in for the evening session on the LB with a buddy. They were somewhat manageable, part frustating (i hate small waves). Got stung twice, not bad ones tho. Leash came off twice, first time by the rocks. i freaked, see my board drifting right by it and my the leg wrap still on. Luckily, it didn't get dinged up - i like to think i grabbed it at the right time. When it came off the 2nd time, i took the leash off and moved a block to where no one was surfing - i'm not a fan of going leashless especially with a LB. As you can see from the pic, it's the little ball attachment that connects leg wrap and leash. What's the remedy to this? I figured clamp, but maybe it can be fixed another way... I got another LB leash if needs be
This was a funky fun swell. Cold winds and warm water. Very much like Autumn round here.
Went back at it yesterday morning. Almost passed as it was nasty out and bed felt good. Just me going so loaded all kinds of boards, gear and a cup of joe and went for a look. The east moved the sand around making for an interesting set up. The tide was in and the swell was sweeping in at an extreme angle. It broke close to shore and then would grind down the beach. You were surfing out to sea. It wasn't shortboardy at all. Bigger heavier boards worked best. Got it fun until it went away. Headed home and spent the rest of the day lounging on a dismal rainy day. Bacon and eggs. Kung Fu Panda. A nap. Reading and tea. Uno. No booze so I can be good to go later.
The Special Lady made a little pasta dish with fresh veggies and ricotta for dinner. Did the dishes and headed back. Looked almost same. Howling off shores and maybe a little bigger. On the morning go it was a hassle walking around with the big board. I went for the fish. Got a number of decent rides but didn't have great control. These suckers had some juice. and it was getting bigger each set. Plus there wasn't 10 dudes out all local. Went back and got my brand new short board. Beak nose, single wing, rounded pin. Riding with a quad set up. Paddled great. Stroked into one right off and was flying. So good to have a real short board on good wave. Long head high lefts grinding through till dark with good surfers hooting each other in. Best session in a long time for sure.
Went back this morning and found it waist high with light off shores. I think it peaked over night. The sun is out. Went with the fish and jumped in with 30 guys out all jockeying. Got a few good ones to myself but bailed soon after. I got mine. Let them get theirs.
Maybe later but I'm Spent.
When a leash quits on me like that I just get a new one. How can you trust it?
i don't. I surfed this morning on the other leash on the LB. I thought it was one of the those "How old were you when you figured out this...". Didn't want to discard until i heard for sure it's a bust. Think i had it for about 5 yrs, but that was the first time it busted on me like that. Furthermore, notch bigger this AM. Long lulls, thi+ hi waves. Not shabby
I've had probably that same brand leash do the same thing. The swivel is held in with set screws. Remove the screws. Remove the remaining pieces of the swivel. Take what's left of the swivel to a tackle store that caters to offshore fishing. Match it up with the other swivels until you find a match. They are a common swivel used in fishing for marlin and tuna.
Surfed a bit this weekend. Nothing like you guys had up north.
There was some tiny wind-swell from a storm just of the coast. Saturday we went out front just before a heavy storm passed over. The wind was blowing sideshore making the small waves look very unappealing. Waited out the thunder and lightning in the van for a half hour or so, then when the sun started to peak thru we went and checked it again. This time it was complete glass. No wind at all. So we paddled out and had a nice little session before the wind picked up out of the south again.
Sunday we opted for a more high-tide friendly spot to the north. Lot's of bait fish in the water and the same weak waves. We surfed for a couple hours until a heavy storm came over us. It wasn't thundering too bad so we stayed out as long as we could stand but the wind just kept getting worse. On the way back to the van we had to cross a 2 lane road that is normally empty but there was a rush of people getting off the island. At the first break in traffic I go for the opposite side of the road, keep in mind it's still pouring rain and blowing like 15 mph.
I'm jogging to the shoulder of the road and hop onto the curb, but gravity does not cooperate and my beater longboard slips out of my hand and **CRACK** makes solid contact with the curb. My wife bursts out with laughter. I look over my shoulder at the line of cars that just saw me drop it. The board has a nice crack near the tail and scrapes all the way up the rail to a smaller crack on the nose, but neither can compare with the bruise to my ego. It's been a good 10 years since I f'ed up this bad so I guess I was due.
We make it back to the van and both have a good laugh at my misfortune on the ride home. We stop at Taco Bell for lunch and spend the rest of the day watching classic action movies. First we watched Commando, then we watched Universal Soldier. Dude, Commando is such a great movie. Did not expect the comic relief to be so on point.
Anywho, I have a shed full of sarf boarts and everything I need to repair the damage so no harm done. Maybe I'll do another ding repair write-up.
Last night cleaned up. Josephine swell. Got bout chest hi. Had a couple buddies in tow, took out the 6'9 loehr boart. I had several great waves, carved out to shore. Just some beautiful lines, several of us had a great time. One guy who just got back in town had the roughest time getting back in surf shape, he caught one wave. He's used to his LB, so the smaller 7' fun shape didn't do him wonders. Went out early this morning on 10th, but it was knee hi. Shed some pounds back at the house, and went back to yesterday's spot - Elektric Ave aka 13th st. Just one dude out there and as soon as i put in, a swarm of 20 or so ppl haha. I felt bad for that guy, but he and i just stayed next to a jetty that didn't get crowded. Took the LB and had a few good rides. While there was some lightning in the distance yesterday, the storm of lightning bolts this morning was coming our direction from sea. It looked gnar, and as soon as it came up close it created texture, lil chop and took some of the top of the waves. Didn't take me long to pack it in and call it what it was
Got out for about 50 minutes on my lunch break today. The tide was just getting low enough for the waves to break as I got out there. I paddled out into a wide open spot between 2 "peaks". I put that in parentheses because it breaks pretty much the same all over.
I started catching waves one right after the other. I didn't even sit on my board for the first 20 minutes or so. Then, as reliable as "old faithful", the guys crowded around the peaks start making their way towards me. Before I know it, I am sitting in the middle of the pack, with one guy 10 feet directly inside of me. Dude, I'm on a 9'6 with no rocker and I'm catching a s*** ton of waves, why on earth would you think that is a good place to sit? I let a few smaller ones go but I'm on every set wave. I even blow a few working on my cross-step.
I was watching the clock and finally I had to get out. So I turn and paddle for a wave as 3 other people go for it and stand up. F*** it. I pop up and don't look back.
Made it to the van, quickly change and I'm headed home. I make it back to the computer with 10 minutes to spare before my next meeting. Trying to make this "new normal" of working from home a bit more surf oriented, but I'm still working out the kinks.
Sloppy little waves again yesterday... took the 8'0. Thing catches waves like a soft top.
The sand really moved around with that last TS. That on top of the typical summer beach profile is making low tide break like high.
LB , solid TS swell , 11 sec with a 6 ft swell . Ventured into your neck of the woods to surf freight trains .
@headhigh I hear you on the work from home thing. I'm in the same boat.
Got a couple of surfs in last two days. The Boy and I went to check out a spot after Taco Tuesday to see how it fared after the east swell. We found it had made a huge tide pool. Waves were pounding a wide bar in front of it making for excellent skimming. Did some bodysurfing too. Had fun until an epic sunset.
Got all my tasks completed yesterday early. Read HH's story and checked the buoy. Ran out to get at mid incoming at a more user friendly break. Just me this time but wished I had him with me as it was a perfect beginner wave. Waist high rights and lefts on the outside bar and then a great reform all the way in. It was kinda shortboardable but seemed like a lot of work for little return. I went for the longboard and caught a ton of waves. Long fun rides . Headed home for a fish fry, then headed back to show the girls the tide pool. More bodysurfing, a little boog action, and the whole fam paddling around the pool. Another great sunset. Heading back tonight and bringing Grandma.
How'd the whole Santa Cruz story end? Waitin on ya.
Swell surprisingly kept rolling in on Saturday. Went to the Washout with the LB, and plenty of waist hi swell to dabble in. A buncha ppl as usual crowded one side of a jetty, so it was just 3 of us guys on the other side doing our own thang. Girls churned out, a group of them learning or just plain new sat on the side. Lotta hollering and what not, but it made for a good 3 hr session and plenty of cloud coverage all wknd - no sunscreen. Also surprisingly, caught my 2nd ever fish - a young catfish found while setting up at a sandbar kayaking later that day. Some surprises are whalecum
Surf all weekend.
Both days we ventured north to the high tide spot, but Sunday was really the standout. We were up early to feed the animals and decided to get on it before the crowd. In the van and rolling by 8:05 (which is damn early for the weekend if you ask me). Hit Port City Java for coffee, bagels, and a big mango banana smoothie on the way. If you are ever in the Wilmington area I highly recommend stopping at PCJ for a quick breakfast or lunch. It's just about the best you can do with a drive thru.
I'm just finishing my bagel when we make the turn for this particular island. Wait... got a brain-freeze from chugging the smoothie... ok I'm good. We pull up to the parking spot, were the first car in the lot, man I love August. Walk over the dunes to see waist high peelers and not a single other person out. Just for the **** of it I at the WB cam: Shorebreak, crowded AF, at $5 an hour. Eff That.
We surf for 3 solid hours, sometimes going a half hour without saying a word to each other because we're catching so many waves. It was one of those, drop in, quick cutback to the peak, and ride the wave the opposite direction to the shallow runner section. At one point it got so glassed off, that you couldn't really see the contour of the wave in front of you. It was dreamy.
We surf till arms are dead and tide is high. Make a leisurely drive back to town and hit Taco Bell on the way. Second Sunday in a row with Taco Bell lunch, we earned it haha. I had a bunch of to-do stuff when I got home but ended up lounging on the porch with the wife and cats for the rest of the afternoon. Left over ribs and lentil soup with jicama slaw on the side for dinner. Life is solid.