who here has been surfing this week?

Discussion in 'All Discussions' started by Peajay4060, Jan 14, 2015.

  1. antoine

    antoine Well-Known Member

    Mar 10, 2013
    It was a total raging disorganized mess with constant Non-Stop waves not coming in sets. It was anywhere from five to eight feet depending on where you were sitting. Sadly I report my first attempt to paddle out I did not quite make it. I know shame on me second attempt something magical must have happened in the window opened up and I paddled out in no time which was weird. Caught a few or maybe a few caught me fast fun rides but short-lived. Anyway it's always really good to hear you guys talk about your surfing Adventures and it looks like we're going to have surf 4 weeks down here.
     
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  2. Manik

    Manik Well-Known Member

    449
    Dec 25, 2015

  3. Manik

    Manik Well-Known Member

    449
    Dec 25, 2015
    Winds changed direction for the afternoon
    That is awesome, didn't know he surfed
     
  4. CJsurf

    CJsurf Well-Known Member

    Apr 28, 2014
    Pretty epic couple of days. Last night it was bombing down the street from my house.

    My 15 year old.

    119456653_10214048040713864_6905516269671177929_o.jpg

    Cory Lopez showed up and was destroying the place.

    119592195_10214048225838492_8867208165258024945_o.jpg
     
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  5. Carson

    Carson Well-Known Member

    434
    May 19, 2006
    Had a breakthrough with the salty fuckers at Campgrounds. Got "invited" to the main peak by one of the bros as we were sitting and chatting.

    About waist high and not a breath of wind. Took out my 7'2" Kies Wide Nose Fish, which doesn't look much at all like a fish, and got a ton of waves. The board is really good for just gliding down the line and make some easy turns. It's way too much board for me to throw around at 150 pounds.

    This work from home thing is a hygiene killer. Threw on a hat when I got home, grabbed a bowl of Trader Joes Maple Nut Cluster Crack Cereal and got to work. Oh, and a cup of coffee, of course.
     
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  6. Manik

    Manik Well-Known Member

    449
    Dec 25, 2015
  7. Manik

    Manik Well-Known Member

    449
    Dec 25, 2015
    Sick! Your 15 yr old charges CJ
     
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  8. CJsurf

    CJsurf Well-Known Member

    Apr 28, 2014
    Thanks. His big brother does too but is a little more elusive to photograph these days.
     
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  9. LBCrew

    LBCrew Well-Known Member

    Aug 12, 2009
    This great run of swell continues... Smaller today but this morning there were light winds and glassy conditions for the AM surf check. Hope to get out againe today after work. Better tide situation then, too...
     
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  10. headhigh

    headhigh Well-Known Member

    Jul 17, 2009
    Plenty of swell in the water but the wind has been blowing sideshore for like 5 days straight.

    While the surf junked up I have had plenty of time to work on my main project at the moment, restoring a 1976 19 foot Manatee run-about. Very solid boat with the original 85hp Evinrude that still runs great. The only issue is that about 2/3 of the plywood floor has rotted. At this point I have the floor up and all the old foam out. I removed 100+ pounds of water-logged foam from the hull, and it's been drying out for about 3 weeks. Yesterday I spent a brand new longboard's worth of $$$ on the pour-foam and fiberglass needed to finish her up. Still need to buy plywood for the floor though.

    The boat is essentially a giant surfboard: Wooden stringers, surrounded by foam, and covered in fiberglass.

    Can't wait to explore some of the uninhabited islands around here once I get this rig back in the water.
     
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  11. Peajay4060

    Peajay4060 Well-Known Member

    Nov 14, 2011
    That's what I'm Talking about.

    Great couple of days of surf and feeling alright. I mean my arms are dead but in a good way.

    Headed out late afternoon Monday. Went to a straight up beach break first. Just wanted to stroke into some bombs. Found a decent bar that some overhead peaks would hit at an angle and run. The incoming tide made for an easier paddle out. All lefts which is fine by me. Big drops, bottom to top turn, Glassy wall with some cover, kick out. Got some goods there but with the tide coming up I had to keep an eye on my truck. After three good rides one after another I went to check and found the surge just at my bumper. I could have moved up and went back out but didn't want to have the worry. Got back into the truck and looked for better parking. I could have found a lot and walked in but went to check another access to a different spot. Found it dry so I gave it a shot.
    On the beach the surf was surging up and almost hitting the dunes. Skirted it and made it to the spot. Watched it for a while. It was a bit smaller here but it was a hundred yard speed run. Couple of dudes asking what am I waiting for but the crowd was so thick. The way back became completed swamped. Since I was going to be stranded a while till the tide dropped I paddled out. 1st hour was a lesson in frustration. Rode a couple but the crowd was killing my stoke. Some great surfing going on but I'm no spectator and hate a crowd. As the tide let out the bigger waves started to swing wider out on the outer bar. A few guys out there but it was hard to see what was happening. Watched a couple roll in and made a break for it. Got some big bombs. I would roll in, stay with it as it stood up and turn and burn. Maybe a couple hundred yards of nothing but speed and with turns. Took some time to paddle back out. wait and do it again. It was just really great. Surfed till dark. Made it out of there dry and completely spent. Leftover seafood pasta from the night before and sacked out.

    Too spent for Tuesday morning. I couldn't lift my arm past my neck. Woke up early though to get work done. Ate the last of the seafood then headed back out to the outside at the second spot. More lully, but the goods were out there if you waited. The water was warm but the air was chill. Got a handful of long rides at slow pace. Not as good as Monday but still good. After a couple hours of this, and a large something swimming around me, I went back and saw the tide was flooding in again. Decided I had my fill and left happy. Breaded chicken thighs, roasted purple taters and kale for dinner and early bed.

    Love this new board. 6'1"x 19.5 x 2.5. Single wing round pin quad.
    When your board is right.....
    Resting my bones for the next run. Hope yous get some of it. Post up if you do.
     
    Last edited: Sep 16, 2020
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  12. CJsurf

    CJsurf Well-Known Member

    Apr 28, 2014
    A few more samples from this week.

    119757894_10214061751056614_3180891015585714299_o.jpg

    119650550_10214061747936536_7412445143321207616_o.jpg

    119706679_10214061748176542_3883693180279505354_o.jpg

    119636021_10214061750256594_7226956313243766257_o.jpg
     
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  13. curl

    curl Well-Known Member

    232
    Apr 30, 2013
    photo by Torcia , NY .
     

    Attached Files:

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  14. Carson

    Carson Well-Known Member

    434
    May 19, 2006
    Carlsbad is uniquely positioned on a bend in the coast. It picks up some of the south swell that areas to the south of us don't. Today was one of those days. There was some steep south in the water that was nicely broken up by some NW wind swell. Campgrounds was crowed as fuck, but I sit off to the north of the main peak in a area thats just past a deep hole, so most set waves taken from the main peak don't run all the way through. There are exceptions, but it's a good spot to pick off some of the walls from the long period swell. I took out my 6'4" Kies thruster today and got a bunch of good ones. Some of them were slightly overhead ( to me, at 5'4" :D ). Great morning of surfing. Now, I've got to jump on an IT All Hands call where we will probably be discussing the upcoming lay offs. :(
     
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  15. Peajay4060

    Peajay4060 Well-Known Member

    Nov 14, 2011
    well that's good ( surf) and bad ( lay offs)

    Spent some time at that spot quite a few years ago and had some real fun. Didn't realize until you described it but it's similarities like unique position, main peak and a big hole to where I've mostly been surfing. Only thing is my spot is all sand so it won't stay that way.

    good luck with the call
     
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  16. Carson

    Carson Well-Known Member

    434
    May 19, 2006
    Thanks. I think I'll be alright. My boss and his boss have both said they think everyone in our group should be fine. We are viewed as the innovators and problem solvers and the company is committed to our site in Carlsbad (corp office is in San Jose).

    Yeah, that spot was really cool today. With the angle of the swell, the secondary peak was a sweet little bowly section. Super fun.
     
  17. LBCrew

    LBCrew Well-Known Member

    Aug 12, 2009
    Unridable this morning... first time in several days. But what a run of surf we've had! Surfed every day for almost a week straight... I lost count.
     
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  18. Carson

    Carson Well-Known Member

    434
    May 19, 2006
    Back to the campgrounds today. Swell has fallen off considerably. Waist high for the most part with wee bigger set every now and again. Decided to ride the new fish today. I concentrated on exaggerating the forward foot placement because I noticed I was coming up short most of the time. After four sessions, I still have a long way to go on this board. When I DO get it right, it's like a rocket and it feels so cool to rock it from rail to rail.

    No breakfast yet. Coffee, yes.
     
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  19. UnfurleD

    UnfurleD Well-Known Member

    Jul 13, 2016
    had some clean up today. Chest hi, mostly shoulder but i didn't tell the buddy who missed out afterwards - keep it light, sideshore with a good bit of mush. At the Washout, if you was in the center of it, you'd get a nice ride but wasn't too much going down the line. Winds were barrelling yesterday, so was quite surprised - that was from Sally. Tomorrow or Sunday it'll be barreling again - this time from Teddy. Hearing Teddy is the go getter of the canes this year. Winds are still light, might have something to get later this evening, but i did try a couple hrs after hi tide before I went into work - it was best for the LB to get on the peak or you'd be doing what i was doing which was getting a lil whitewash. It's sumtin, but i'm not a fan of the whitewash waves
     
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  20. Mitchell

    Mitchell Well-Known Member

    Jan 5, 2009
    Yeah...my buddy made the trip up and a guy on the beach got a shot of him on a gem....meanwhile Delaware got chest high waves all week.

    paul.jpg