who here has been surfing this week?

Discussion in 'All Discussions' started by Peajay4060, Jan 14, 2015.

  1. UnfurleD

    UnfurleD Well-Known Member

    Jul 13, 2016
    visited a buddy in IOP yesterday evening, brought a couple of the bigger boarts. One was a recently acquired 7'4 "Third St" shaper out of Folly. Never heard of the guy, nor seen him before, but he gave it to a buddy who gave it to me. Kinda like a bullet w a rounded diamond tail, epoxy, so bouyant but i'd imagine fast. I say imagine cuz it was hard to tell on the thi hi waves at lo tide. The goal was to get out there and the guy just moved back a few weeks ago - he's in the cinema industry so the guy doesn't stick around for too long. Last chance of waves today, so i'm at the office plugging away and ready to abandon hi noon to make the last run at it. Whatever worx
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  2. headhigh

    headhigh Well-Known Member

    Jul 17, 2009
    Great stories and photos, guys.

    After a week of solid waves and crap wind, the conditions finally turned around at my local. Got off work yesterday and headed straight down to the beach. Took the left turn to the north of the island where it can hold longer period swell.

    I park and peek over the dunes to see big waves crumbling on the outside and speeding up for an inside barrel section. Most folks were on shortboards rolling in on the white water or catching shoulders, so naturally I pull out the 9'6 and paddle out.

    I paddle past the lineup and see a set looming on the horizon so I keep paddling. I'm maybe 100ft past the furthest person, and I havn't sat on my board for 30 seconds when the first set comes right towards me. I turn around and see all little boards scratching to get out of the way of the cleanup set. It's super clean so I slide to the nose of my board and dig in to catch the nugget.

    I'm right on the peak, spray blowing in my eyes as I punch through and pop up. Big fading turn to the left as the wave starts to break and I find the pocket. It's been so long since I had this much wave in front of me I hardly know what to do. Instinct kicks in as I glide up to the lip and cut back to the pocket 2 or 3 times before the waves really starts to speed up. I sit back on my tail and let the pocket catch up to me, I can hear the barrel right behind me and see some feathering lip above my head. I'm not super deep but I get that moment of zen where you're in the prefect spot on a great wave.

    Up ahead the wave is starting to square up for the close out so I do one last bottom turn and smash my board into the lip for a big kamikaze floater. The rest of the session was more of the same.

    We head in at dark and stop by (IMHO) the best Chinese takeout spot in town on the way home. Shrimp egg rolls, Szechuan beef, and Mai Fun Noodles were awesome but this place's Wonton Soup is next level. It's got clear, super flavorful broth, with tender wontons that taste like fresh ginger and some other bright herbs that I can't put my finger on. Wash it all down with a big glass of water (trying to drink less beer LOL).

    Fingers crossed for a small but similar session tonight.
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  3. UnfurleD

    UnfurleD Well-Known Member

    Jul 13, 2016
    And my arms are officially toast. Longboard Heaven out there. Washout was packed. Lotta beauts tho and just a warm, wave friendly kinda day. Coulda been bigger, yea, but stomach to rare chest wasn't all that bad. Shorties had luck too but mostly LBs. Got next couple days off, just gonna enjoy this weather before its sweaters
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  4. Peajay4060

    Peajay4060 Well-Known Member

    Nov 14, 2011
    Nice stories dudes,

    Had some surf up here the last few days. Cold air, warm water, and off shore winds. It was big but not big enough to keep the crowds down or spread'em out. I found my nooks. Monday was real good. A grinder had been going off close to shore and the crowd there was ridiculous. I heard 150 people fighting for waves. I bailed and waited till the tide dropped to go at the outer bars. Slog of a paddle to get with the good peak at the right spot. Hooked up with a few gems that ran off for for a good while. Put it as slightly overhead with a bumpy but easy enough drop. It wasn't so top to bottom out there so you had a moment to get your feet right. a few turns out there, cut back into some soup and wait for it to wall, then it was off for the races. No barrels just big long walls. Pure fun type of surf. Got home hung my suit and went right to bed. Only had the morning the next day to get out there.

    Checked the same spot at 1st light but it wasn't good yet and didn't have time to wait. Ended up at a beach break running head long into big fast movers. Got a bunch through a few drifts. Just drop and hold on as it barreled until it closed up, try to duck out as it does. Found a good one as a last wave that had more of a wall to work. Got out after that one and went to work. Took till the end of the day so I missed a lot but I'm almost OK with it. Could have got a few before dark but stayed home for taco's. I believe I'm surfed out.
    Last edited: Sep 24, 2020
  5. Carson

    Carson Well-Known Member

    May 19, 2006
    New SW swell showed up overnight. Nothing spectacular, waist to chest on the better sets. What was unexpected was the wind going offshore this morning. Cleaned everything up really nicely. Got a late start this morning (my wife usually runs on MWF, but she bailed today), so I didn't get in the water until around 7. Just me and a couple hundred of my closest friends. Managed to snag a few good ones before I had to get out for work.

    Trying to shed a couple unwanted pounds (like 25), so had a light breakfast on cottage cheese with some granola with my third cup of coffee before sitting down to try to create an EKS cluster in a completely private VPC.
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  6. headhigh

    headhigh Well-Known Member

    Jul 17, 2009
    Last night was bigger than I thought it would be, but the wind had too much south in it and was creating a frustrating side chop. Still caught a ton of fun waves though.

    I was supposed to meet two friends out there, had the session lined up early in the day as they get off work a couple hours earlier than I do. These dudes are strict shortboarders. Even in the smallest, weakest surf their out there trying to look like Kelly.

    So I drift down maybe 100yds, still no sign of them. I'm catching wave after wave up and down the beach and having a good time.

    Get out when it's dark and shoot one of them a text. He said they got out before I even got there because it "SSSUUUCKKKEDD". I sent him a link to a Craigslist ad for a longboard.
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  7. Carson

    Carson Well-Known Member

    May 19, 2006
    Dead calm this morning for glassy, waist high waves, pushing to chest on the rare occasion. Took a little more foam today and I'm glad I did. The bigger sets were super long period, so kinda walled up. Drop, turn, close out. Pulled into a few and even found a pig-dog barrel that was super fun. Good day.

    Trader Joe's Honey O's for breakfast and jumping on a call with AWS.
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  8. dave

    dave Well-Known Member

    Dec 11, 2008
    Onboarding a new client and kids tennis practice pickup and dropoff kept me out of the water Tues/Wed. I could've cleared 2 hrs and jumped in for an hour or so but...maybe its just me, but I can't really leave good surf. I like to paddle out and stay out until I'm shot (or swell dies out/wind shifts/tide fills in/lightning). The fact that sunrise is now 6:15 also slows my roll, because I'm a big dawn patrol guy. My energy level is super elevated when I wake up -- I've never used an alarm clock in my life - and by 3pm I'm done. So I cleared my morning yesterday, and surfed clean waist to occ. chest from 6-10am. Lots of epic wave recapping in the lineup and stoke-by-association from friends, so that also kept me entertained

    I was in the office by 11, and at noon I had a lunch special from the pizza place next to my office, which, somewhat surprisingly, does a really really good angus cheeseburger and seasoned fries lunch special, $8.99.
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  9. sigmund

    sigmund Well-Known Member

    Dec 7, 2015
    Day 1: Fun wedging chest - head forerunners up in Maine. Tons of rides, great day to loosen up and remember that, yes, surf exists.

    Day 2: Return to same spot, but now OH solid waves with occasional pits of eternal death. Reacquaint myself with waves of consequence, and exceed expectations. Surf until I can no longer push myself up on a wave of extra consequences, and eat sand, seaweed, and bits of clam shells, then float in.

    Day 3: Join the hordes back in NH in sold waves with limited arm function. Get c0cccck blocked on several drops, and laugh at the pandemic mayhem that is surfing these days, but not caring because, well, yesterday.

    Day 4: Sleep in, spend 2 hours outside in the chaise lounge reading the paper, eat pizza, then go golfing, which, actually hurt.
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  10. curl

    curl Well-Known Member

    Apr 30, 2013
    F525CBEF-8D96-4809-B14B-A14579B0BA3B.png Asbury Park sunrise
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  11. LBCrew

    LBCrew Well-Known Member

    Aug 12, 2009
    Took advantage of the flatness yesterday morning and took the gun for a swim. My kid and I both missed a fish each. Guess it was just, "one of those days." Saw lots of baby stripers, small seabass and short tog. Nice way to spend the morning, though...
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  12. CJsurf

    CJsurf Well-Known Member

    Apr 28, 2014
    It was pretty fun today.
    Last edited: Sep 27, 2020
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  13. headhigh

    headhigh Well-Known Member

    Jul 17, 2009
    Under-forecasted surf Saturday and Sunday made for an awesome weekend. Got some of the best waves of the year with only one other person out on Saturday. Sunday the waves were a touch smaller but still super fun. Spent both afternoons working on the boat restoration and drinking beer.

    Been "at work" for an hour now. About to open some spreadsheets and do some actual work, but I'm still holding onto this weekend by a thread.
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  14. Carson

    Carson Well-Known Member

    May 19, 2006
    Super fun weekend. Saturday was a gem. Chest+ and not a breath of wind. Nice punchy NW swell, mid period so it wasn't walling up. Peaks all over the place. Was really crowded, but there were plenty of waves to go around. I took out my 6'4" thruster and got a ton of waves during a 3+ hour session. One stand out wave comes to mind, drop in at the peak on a nice left. It barrels up right from the drop so I grab the rail and pig dog the short barrel section and come out as it lines up nice. I stand up and turn back down to the bottom just to see it lining up hollow again. Grab the rail and and and shoot that little section too.

    Sunday was a notch or 3 smaller, but still super clean and fun. Not nearly has many people out so I had to catch all that waves. I got more than my share. Best one was a set wave, another fine left, pig-dog the barrel. I'm blind in the barrel and as I come out of the froth (not a clean exist on this one), I'm right in the middle of a pack of three starter kit surfers that decided to drop in on my while I was in the barrel. Paddle a little further up the peak after that one. It could have ended poorly.

    Saturday was my step daughter's 7th birthday. She wanted burgers on the grill and I was more than willing to oblige that request. Topped mind off with a big slab of white onion and avocado on an onion role. She didn't want a cake, she wanted Rice Crispy treats, so I made a big pan of them and melted some semi-sweet baker's chocolate and topped them with that silky smooth chocolate layer.

    Great weekend all around. Now, to prepare for another run of SW swell that should keep us in nice waves for the rest of the week.
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  15. headhigh

    headhigh Well-Known Member

    Jul 17, 2009
    That sounds so awesome. I missed my yearly trip to CA this year and I am jonesing to get back to the land of good waves and better burritos.

    Big slab of onion on a burger is just *chef's kiss*. That, and some yeller mustard.
  16. Peajay4060

    Peajay4060 Well-Known Member

    Nov 14, 2011
    Got a couple on Sunday after some long over do yard work. Not sure where that swell came from. Rolled up at mid incoming to fish but had the LB. Maybe I'd go for a paddle. But it was chest high and pumping. My arms still tweaked and the LB was not the right board but I went for a couple. Steep and fast. 1st wave was a forever tube that I couldn't get away from until dry sand. And I didn't want to grab the born with my bum arm. I took a beat down. Fin up my but and everything. The board washed a long way across the beach. Stupid me grabbed it and went for more. My last one was a sand sucking barrel with no where to go. I felt my boards anger and quit. To wrecked to fish.

    Got home for a quinoa salad with goat cheese, dried cranberry, fresh from the garden spinach and the 1st of our butternuts. Some grilled chicken thighs on top. was going to hit it up again the next morning but I was in agony. Ate the rest of that salad with a fried egg on top.

    Still tweaked as of this post and still kinda surfed out. So I'm healing up before my next surf. When I do and post, the food part of the story should involve figs. Biggest harvest we had yet. Friggin ants though.
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  17. Manik

    Manik Well-Known Member

    Dec 25, 2015
    Got out yesterday, report said wind swell with onshore/sideshore winds. The fog cancelled any wind so it was glassy and only a few out, awesome. Nothing epic but got wave after wave for hours, close to four to be exact. Totally spent myself, shoulders were hating me. The last couple of waves, it almost hurt to pop up but it was so clean and easy it was hard not to keep going, long ass right and a long paddle back, lol, life is good. Couldn't do any work after that, decided on a lazy day, so I didn't even dare check today so I can get work done.
    Slow cooked a big red pepper, some green cubenelas, a big tomato, garlic, in butter. Made some linguini and threw it in the pan with the veggies when I was done, stirred the whole lot. Add some salt, pepper, and fresh parm and had a good after surf meal yesterday and plenty of leftovers for my side tonight to have with pork chops in the oven now. Ready to partake in some shrubbery and watch the debates, should be fun.
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  18. Manik

    Manik Well-Known Member

    Dec 25, 2015
    That's awesome with the figs PJ, my pops had a couple of small of fig trees in his yard out in California. It was kind of a weird fruit fresh, we ate them skin and all, never really knew what else to do with them. Salads I guess?
  19. Carson

    Carson Well-Known Member

    May 19, 2006
    Heal quickly!
  20. Peajay4060

    Peajay4060 Well-Known Member

    Nov 14, 2011
    I ate one off the tree this afternoon. Heaven. Keeping the rest for salads with sliced skirt steak and with goat cheese, prosciutto on pizza dough.
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