who here has been surfing this week?

thanks La_Piedra. Josh learned to shape from Skip Frye. The fish rides like nothing I’ve ridden.

The waves turned out to be great head high clean waves at Ocean Beach, SF yesterday. I had my pick of steep lefts and rights at low tide. Got my wave quota before it became crowded. It’s been really big (15+ft) at OB the past week but the size yesterday was more my thing. Super fun!

 

Paddled out for a couple of hours this afternoon. Waves were nothing special. Stomach to chest high. Just nice to have spring like weather in December. The boardwalk was packed and the stores and rides were open. One guy I was sharing the lineup with was not even wearing boots and gloves.

 

Same up north, waist to chest, and air temps around 60 which was a treat. Super easy logging, got a right that went forever. My face got pretty red from the sun, nice feeling for December.
Just had some stuffed peppers, my specialty, and the rest of a bottle of merlot. Feeling mellow.

 

Raining cats and dogs all night last night and today. Read a good article about locally made balsa wood boards in villages in Papua New Guinea. About to eat açaí bowl. No surfing today.

 

What are the boots and gloves for???
Your pal Antoine in cocoa beach.

 

All grown up now... https://www.instagram.com/p/CIizF9JnbWV/?igshid=ajwrsnswod02

 

Saturday was almost a carbon copy of Friday. I waited until the tide dropped a bit and paddled out around 9 AM. Got way more than my fair share of waves in the waist to shoulder high range. South wind came up after about 2.5 hours in the water and started to ruffle things up. Got a couple more and called it a day.

Today was significantly smaller. Went out at about the same time and had some fun in the waist high waves, occasionally chest high on the sets. Lots of learners in the lineup today, so I was able to snag most of the set waves. Super fun day.

Forecast is calling for 3 to 5 every day for the foreseeable future. Forgive me in advance if I don't check in every day. It's probably because I won't be able to lift my arms to the keyboard.

 

Today at low my local was longboard gold. Waist to chest high perfection for at least 3 or 4 hours.

 

Nothing on the forecast and thought I would do some fishing, but turned out to have a tiny but fun wave all weekend.

Rode my 9'6 on Saturday, and a 5'5 fish on Sunday. There was just enough push to get me moving on the fish at low tide.

Surf 3 hours both days. Beautiful spring-like weather, water is still in the 60's, and the beach is basically empty. Awesome weekend.

 

South shot swells. It's all we got. Clean up yesterday after a windy day early afternoon. I work in the house next to windows, it's the way to go. Got my 6'9 Loehr back repaired yesterday, went out with a buddy in the evening with his potato. Waist to chest, beautiful peelers and still warm - cold came overnight. No gloves, maybe the last day looking at weather forecast. I couldn't hide the smile, man, it was a great feeling even knowing i had to put in a couple more hours of work last night. One drop had me almost lost it but somehow i landed on the board and stuck it for a minute going to the right. My right arm was jacked up way behind me. I liked to think it looked pretty cool from the beach but that's always suspect. Not sure about this evening, but tomorrow is looking like a solid day minus the forecasted rain

 

Surfed cocoa beach pier this evening from 330 to 530. 80f water was 68f.
Just a hint offshore and maybe thigh hi. Rode the 9'6 Walden and showed out for the tourist eating dinner on the pier resteraunt. Got in the pocket almost every wave but one wave I managesd to lay back down on the board and pretend to get covered up! Lol. Anyway. Good times.

 

short sess, bit drifty south. Walked it up the washout. Everything going left, escaped some head hi ones except for paddling back out on the last wave. Mostly waist that built to chest, sloppy even a bit mushy soft but regardless the brunt of the wave was powerful

 

Got about 90 minutes in this morning as the tide was rising. Still decent swell in the water, mostly waist to chest. Kept getting softer and deeper the longer I was out there. Still fun with the offshores.

 

Got it for a golden hour as the tide dropped before the wind picked up this morning. Clear water at the inlet for a change, and the swell was bigger than I thought but I brought my 6'8" Orion flying saucer along with my LB, just in case, so I had a blast.

Cool crew, found an empty slot for some juicy chest high plus peaks on the swing wides. Lots and lots and lots of fun. The board flies. Got some sick vertical thwacks on the inside and made a couple, got drilled on a few, and ate it on a floater into the flats on the last ride, should have kicked out the back but it's all sand bottom.

78 degree air temp 77 degree water temp. Good groundswell on it's way soon. Life is goode. Happy Holidayz fellas!!!

 

Hold that happy thought mi amigo

 

pumping right now with only a tow-in crew on it: http://www.larrysvacationwebcams.com/cams/SFSanMateo.php

 

Hook is a great movie.

 

Two ta tree.

 

Another beautiful morning. Watched the sunrise over my shoulder as I watched for the bigger set waves, which were running chest high. Wind was offshore to slack. Conditions were stellar when I paddled out at first light. I got several lefts and rights that were probably the best waves I've surfed, not because the wave was that good, but everything just kind of came together for me. I think getting so many days in a row has been really good for my skill level (or lack thereof). Tide got on it as the session wore on, but overall, one of the most fun days I've ever had. Probably top 10.

Just finished off a breakfast burrito stuffed with mexi cheese, eggs and some leftover pork loin roast from last night. Hit it with a liberal dousing of Valentina hot sauce to kick it up a notch.