The one time I got busted I took my company car to surf on company time and as I walked back to the car I witnessed an Atlantic City local throw a brick through the driver side window. He grabbed my stuff and ran. Luckily I had hidden my wallet so all the little shit got was a pair of pants and a beach towel. Sooooooo Busted. Looking back I was lucky to have not lost my job that day.
Didn't surf yesterday, but got out this morning for a couple hours. Wind was offshore to slack and waves were waist to chest and pretty consistent for the first hour+. Got some really good ones off this mix of NW and SW swell. Super fun with more on the way.
I've not ever had anything like this happen. I'm pretty transparent with my boss and the people I work with (many of whom surf as well). They know that, before 9 AM, there is a really high probability that I'll be surfing.
When I was a teenager, I got a job with a company truck and got fired the very next day for taking it surfing after work. In my early 20's, I did roving work out of my '64 VW Bus so I always had my gear with me. If there was surf, I was generally on it until around 10:00 am and skirted a lot of issues until beepers/pagers started being used...then problems would arise again lol. Being retired, I only work part-time now but all my bosses let me surf pretty much whenever I want (barring emergency or deadline). The shit I used to dream about as a kid. Never really missed any major events or emergencies that I can recall tho
Awesome X-mas break from work. Got some surf Fri, Sat and Sun. Thursday a big storm came thru. Waves peaked at about 9ft but the wind was all wrong and the ocean was a mess. Woke up Christmas morning to chest to head high waves and a stiff 30mph offshore wind. It was like any other day of surf except there was absolutely no one on the road to the beach. Kinda creepy. Surfed for 3 hours and got a ton of waves. Unforgettable x-mas swell for sure. The swell dropped for Saturday but I still got out there for a few hours. There was a dude on a knee-board out there absolutely killing it. His board looked kind of like a kayak and was like 8ft long with padding a nd handles all over. He was catching waves right with me on my 9'6. I was impressed. Sunday the swell got even smaller but still a fun little LB wave. After a few hours the tide got on it so we left and hit the hardware and grocery stores. Got home and cooked some pork spare-ribs on the grill and topped with some NC style BBQ sauce my neighbor gave me for xmas. It was super spicy with a sharp vinegar taste, just right for NC BBQ. Also made some mac and cheese, grilled some broccoli, and the wife made some biscuits from scratch. Best way to close out an all-time x-mas weekend.
A high energy swell that had 2 different pulses proved to be rather beastly. 15 ft at 13 seconds with side offshores was another low wave ratio session while paddling in current from hell . Following day had a window of 3 hrs . Next on up , Sat repeat and hopefully a tad mellower .
Took off a couple days because my MIL was here and it was the right thing to do. Surfed on Saturday and Sunday though. Saturday was smallish but building. Nice and clean. Waves were mostly waist to stomach high. Had some really fun ones. Sunday was bigger, running chest + with sets a foot or two overhead from time to time. Got a few good ones before packing it in. Conditions were clean for most of that session too and turn light onshore for the latter part. VAS conditions today as a winter storm moves through SoCal. Conditions are supposed to clean up tomorrow, but it will more than likely be well beyond my comfort level, so the plan is to head down to Blacks to watch as the forecast is calling for 6 to 10 and good there.
Took a drive down to Blacks yesterday. I decided to stay up on the bluff as the trails were muddy as hell and I didn't want to risk me or Copper taking a tumble. Glad I made that decision too. Heard from a lifeguard friend that some dude fell into Box Canyon there and had to be roped out. From what I could see of the waves from on high, it looked like pretty legit DOH on the sets. I'm sure we'll see some pictures on Surflies at some point. Today, the swell dropped a bunch. I waited for the tide to go down a bit and paddled out at the Powerplant. Sets were in the head high to a foot or so overhead. I got some really good waves as the tide dropped out. Only bummer was the wind came up onshore, but it was still manageable. Really fun session in the sunshine. Came home and had the last slab of lasagna that I made for Christmas dinner. I went to a bitchen' little Italian deli and bought fresh lasagna sheets, handmade Italian sausage and fresh Marinara. My wife said it was the best lasagna she has ever had, restaurants included. I told her I've made better. Now the pressure is on to deliver a better one next time.
got back on the edge of america last night. Barely got any sleep, coulda slept on my board waiting on some of those longer period waves. It'd go 5 minutes of sitting then shoulder hi bombs reigning. It's warm here, 68, hazy n lightly textured. Took out the 6'9 loehr fish and rolled a couple Polish crepes before I got around to riding them out. Booties were getting in the way - stimulus $$$ ideas floatin in the head presently. Can't wait for a warmer outing soon, but all in all me and a bud had a good time. We moved to 12th, washout was busy, and it was legit. Buddy got to ride his new Gary Wilson Boiled Peanut, a 6' 19.5" waist with an odd tail but he said it was a blast. Good way to get back in swing of things. Tomorrow looking promisin despite buckets of rain all wknd
Happy holidays people! Flew into Dominican republic for a short surf trip over the holidays. Flew from Orlando to Miami and Miami to the d.r Began the trip on some exciting surf for me in Puerto plata .. Clean hh+ dropping to chest the following day. They have a curfew of 6 pm and the military and police are everywhere. You've got to wear a mask and the authorities don't play games..no doubt its a corrupt country but the Dominicans are some proud people! They can't drive for shit and there are few traffic lights so you have to be careful and aggressive at the same time. My Spanish is fair but they will try to speak English if they can. The airbnb was great..Wi-Fi..hot water..private toilet..very nice for this country and 34$ per night . Days 3 the swell left and the wind changed. So I rented a catamaran with 2 dudes from Italy who can sail better than me and we sailed to the island of Catalina..no joke these guys new their stuff about sailing. I saw a ton of whales and dolphins and even a few manta rays. So much tell about that day . Day four headed to punta cana with the Italians and found some rideable waves but nothing great like the first 2 days. Day five was yesterday so new years eve. They go all out for the celebration but the military was going from one party to the next shutting shit down .. I'm so happy to have gone there. Its a one and done for surfing but its the Caribbean so there you have it. It was nice to read through your posts of surfing and it sounds like you guys had it better than me except for the 80 degree crystal blue waters!!!
https://www.bigmarlinpuntacana.com/spearfishing-punta-cana-spearfish-speargun-guide.html Just sayin'...
Another great weekend of surf here in SENC. Surfed Thursday, Saturday and Sunday and while Thurs was the biggest of the weekend, Saturday was the most memorable day. Since we didn't travel at all for the holidays the wife and I used our extra free time to gut our guestroom and start doing new paint, lighting, window treatment, and floors. We worked on the room all day on Saturday, watching the wind gradually slow and the tide fall out. Finally around 2:30 we made the call to put away the paint and head down to the beach. We paddle out into fun wait high waves, mushy on the takeoff but really fast and steep over the sandbar at low tide. As the session went on the lineup cleared out and the wind kept weakening. By 4pm the wind had completely stopped and a thick fog rolled in. It was so clean you couldn't differentiate the waves from the fog until they were right on top of you. This made for some really fun late drops. We don't get thick fog around here too often so it was a cool change from the norm. After the session we came home and roasted some turkey thighs, made some mexican turkey soup and drank a couple margaritas.
Yea, i surfed Thursday after work with a buddy itching on going since he missed that morning sess. It wasn't all that bad putting on the 4/3, my only double sess in a suite this winter. I had the older 6'4 perfection "Miss Clementine" on that one, rode well. Took out the newer "Snowbird" which is a bullet board kinda, 7'2" maybe - can't remember. Fast board tho n rode better than i imagined. That was pretty fun, cured the hangover somewhat. Met a friend at 8th E a couple hours late. Saturday had some fun ones, couple back to back sessions at 13th and there was no one there. Not sure why, very rare to see that as an empty break. Still waist to chest, took out the loehr and had some ride to shore ones then. Entertaining a couple tourists on the beach who sticked around for the whole session, no autographs tho. We're getting a quick shot swell Friday, but for the moment feeling pretty content with where i'm at. Wont' be long before that travel itch gets me
thanks for the report, had no idea you was heading that way. I'm still keeping options open for a trip out but always good to know latest on the islands (aka curfews)
