Yesterday was underwhelming. At least up here at the North end of the state. Absolutely flat today... not a trace of swell. Perfect conditions for a swim around the rocks. Just hope the visibility is decent... got skunked the past two dive days with 3' viz and no signs of life.
I’ve surfed whenever I could lately, which is basically any day that conditions are at least mediocre. There’s usually been something to ride 3-5 days a week, so I’ve had plenty of time in the water. The only positive of covid has been that I’ve really been able to surf more, due to being out of work. It’s given me a load of free time and I’ve spent a lot of it surfing, and with no regret at all. Just wish I was somewhere warmer than in Jersey, though, as I said in the other thread just now.
Finally found a spot that was uncrowded in San pancho. I rented a board for 15$ for the day and surfed left and rights only taking a break for food and a short nap. Lots of beautiful women in the water to make the day so much better. Nothing but friendly people in town and lots of good food.
A couple shots from today, slack wind, great conditions, a couple of spots were crowded but for the most part if you wanted a crowd free wave they were there. I thought my mushrooming was done for the year but scored at least 6 pounds of oyster mushrooms today, it was crazy. I gave most of them to my buddy who has been teaching me, he was stoked. He cooks his then preserves them in jars, I kept just under a pound and have plans to cook them up with some steak tips tonight, plus a nice green salad. Hope everyone is scoring!
just got back from a dog walk on the beach. The water looks like the Bahamas this morning. Unfortunately the surf looks like the Bahamas too. There is a tiny groundswell in the water though if you really wanted to go longboarding.
Finally got the boat finished and did some exploring this weekend. Charted the coordinates of a uninhabited island just south of my normal surf spots and made my way out there. On Saturday the wind was particularly light so the wife and I headed out thru the inlet and into the ocean, then back in towards shore to spot some surf. Just as predicted there were some fun little lines coming in, so we dropped anchor and paddled in towards the breakers. This was my first time ever paddling in to the surf, and it was a bit surreal. I was also stressing about the boat the entire time, but I hear that goes away with experience. We surfed clean pushing waves for a couple hours all alone, and when we got tired we paddled back out to the boat, got changed, ate some food and made our way back to the boat ramp. It has been quite a journey, from buying a tow rig, to fixing the tow rig up, then sourcing the boat and spending 4 months restoring it to finally being able to use it for surf. I have to say it is hella satisfying. I can't imagine just buying a truck and a boat and simply using it. Maybe someday.
In season , I fish a 9ft med action with 50 lb leaders , 14 lb mono and a 60 lb barrel swivels . Night fishing off the jettys I swim the fish into the rocks, go down and haul em out . The big swivels gives u a little something to grab . That sand shark was a project .The big bass stayed off the beaches , but they were there
Shot of swell yesterday evening after gale winds turned this beach town into a freezer. It lined up right tho, drifted north, farthest i drifted up the Washout in a while. Went with a couple buds, took out the 6'4 alchemist - should've tried harder to find that back fin to lock in a tri fin session. Def lost my footing when it skidded on the deep drops, but did manage. Everything was pulling ya right of way, same way as the current. It was fun, it was chilly, but def worthy given the bleek forecast. As i told my friends, don't judge me and my surfing after a post turkey swell
Back from Thanksgiving in Arizona, where there were zero waves. Was bleak all weekend but thing perked up a bit this morning. Waist plus waves showing from NW swell that's not supposed to be here yet with some steep SSW mixed in. Was kinda lumpy with the high tide, but got a few fun ones. Had a real nice left lined up until one of the regulars dropped straight in on me. Looked right at me, went anyway, I called him off (twice) and he kept going, we kicked out at the same time, he looked right at me and paddled away. I said "All I ask is the same fucking courtesy I give you" and he blatantly ignored me. Douchebag. Glad it time to move up the road to the Powerplant for the NW swells. Those guys are dickwads.
Lots of moving water and xtra big sets today, a little too big for me, have to be honest, hoping it drops a little later or sticks around till tomorrow.
14 ft at 12.9 sec . Low wave ratio , semi offshore and full tide . Freaking thick as big made for some epic standup barrels .
Well this feels pretty weak compared to the above, but I did get some surf today. Big burly VAS yesterday with winds gusting to 45+ mph. I'm good. Wind switched a couple hours after dark and I was lining up the dawn session. Woke up at 5 and checked it to see a high tide swallowing up what was left. I was going to charge it anyway, but soon as I stepped into the 30 degree air to start the van I said "f this" and got back in bed. Low tide was at 2 so I broke for lunch at noon and hustled down to the beach. Managed to snag some fast and clean little rides. Nothing spectacular but it's always nice to work out the surf muscle. Made it back just in time for my 2pm meeting, and while I was supposed to be paying attention I re-heated a big bowl of pork lo-mein, moo goo gai pan, and a pile of white rice left over from the weekend.
