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Discussion in 'All Discussions' started by Peajay4060, Jan 14, 2015.
That looks fun.
and not a single person out. What's the closest spot I could park my sprinter van?
Just kidding I don't have a sprinter van.
Went out with shortys to the Washout around 9 on saturday, seeing the cam showing some waist hi sets and building to a 11am hi tide. We get out there, nothing to be ridden. We head back to my place, smoke bout it, grab bigger boarts, recruit a roommie to come out with us. All of a sudden, stomach to chest hi rides come thru. Was riding everything, felt deserved - perseverance. Went out yesterday with the LB, waves a bit weaker bout thi hi for most part. Got on the end of some, sometimes not but something to glyde. Getting it while i can, cuz i see a long flat stretch after this week, gott make moves
4 days in-a-row of surf, staring this past Friday. Absolutely nothing to write home about but it's always nice to get out there and work the surf muscle.
Yesterday I woke up hungover, to late to catch the dawn patrol clean-ness so we slowly loaded up the van and headed north for a south facing beach. Got there and the swell was feathering on the outside and slamming on the sand. Sat in the lineup for 15 minutes before I caught one and almost rode into an inch of water on the LB. So, I dumped the board on the beach and bodysurfed for an hour and actually had a lot of fun! There was enough power to get a good belly slide even without a handplane. Forgot how much fun bodysurfing is, and I know I was putting on a show for the folks on the beach. This was also the first non-wetsuite session of the spring which always feels amazing.
tried out the surf rack on the bike. Slowly made it to 9th st before i found out quick enuff that not much to ride about. Took it to the end of E Arctic out to 12th and was able to grab a few waist hi ones before hi tailing it back. Might trek it up to Carolina Beach tonight for a couple days to break out of the mundane
got in later than expected yesterday into Carolina Beach, had to fuk around wit da roof racks. Technically working today from hotel, but left early around 9 to get in before wind took over. It was increasing by the minute. Chest + right by Tony's school of hard knocks, not even rare head hi tho. Much bigger than i expected, slower drift than i expected. I took the 6'9 loehr fish and looked for the shoulders. Waves were reigning in, closing out some but the build of them was fantastic. Fast rides, kinda wished my boart wasn't so wide n girthy, but you could get some carves and find some cover. Hoping a guy emails me back about a 6'6 JC i saw up here. Got myself a half day tomorrow to make the most of the less windy conditions then and to explore a lil
Keeping the streak going. Yesterday makes 6 days in a row.
Another night of onshore flow, onshore wind, and decent medium period swell. Been riding my new 5'6 twin and really loving it. This is the first actual twin that I have ever owned. I have had a couple boards that could take multiple different fin configs, and I have messed around with taking the center fin out of a thruster, but this is my first real twin.
The shaper and glasser are separate operations, but the glasser designed the fins, so the shaper let him position the fin boxes to match the fins. The result is a really cohesive design that works great. Perks of everything being designed and made in a 5 mile radius.
I'll be honest, it took a little getting used to. I blew out a bunch of bottom turns before I got it dialed. The biggest difference by far though is the speed. Where a thruster would need to pump through a section, with the twin I just set a line and goooo. Once I got it figured out I was really impressed how it comes off the bottom and changes direction too.
Now to try and duck out of work this morning for some longboard slides....
6 days, that's awesome HH. You must be feeling in pretty good shape. I would have to bathe in Ben Gay if I surfed 6 days in a row. I got out myself yesterday, hit up one of my favorite spots. It's was finicky, long lull between decent sets, but only a few others out so when you got one, it was fun, super long left (and a fun right). Eventually had it to myself for almost an hour, right when it seemed to pick up for a bit. Picked off a bunch until my shoulders were screaming and the pop up was getting too hard.
Man, I can't hype enough not to follow the herd, and, if possible, choose your time. I know if the spot I was on was decent, than another very well known spot about 15 minutes away was firing. But I'm sure that spot was crowded, it always is. Where as I might have been on a smaller, more inconsistent wave, I ended up getting it to myself. No 10 on a peak, no paddle battles, just waiting out the flatness to eventually see a beautiful clean line come through, eventually. And they did. Patience paid off.
Yea, i've been streaking as well. Disorganized but waist to chest hi with steep drops. For some reason, didn't take the shorty out of the car. drifted twice from north to south washout. Most of them were pigdogging one way or the other. Tomorrow should be real windy, not sure if that streak will stay alive but wknd is looking promising, sunny
Day 7, took the longboard out and caught what felt like 100 waves in a few hours last night. Powerful but small swell coming in. There were some stretches where I was catching wave after wave after wave without sitting at all. Really fun and this weekend looks like it could be solid as well. The streak continues.
Got out again today, just past dead low, it was my only chance. No one out, and for good reason, waist to chest breaking real shallow on the rocks (the beaches were pretty busy). Caught one and should of pulled off early, but pushed it into the inside reform and now I'm hauling ass over and through the boulders, straight up slalom action, jumped off before it did it's final dump on the boulders but hit a nice one and now have a dinner plate size bruise on my thigh. Last wave coming in was the best, I got a deep carving turn, set up high on the wave, scooted up and got a long cheater 5 dragging the hand on the face.
Not been cooking too much but that needs to change. I am starting my garden from seed this year and am having mixed results so far. Absolutely need to use the right soil to start from seed. I already am behind by weeks by ignoring this fact.
Got a couple of shots from today, tropical storm Ana
Surfed all afternoon. Shot this evening. Should have saved my energy and surfed in the evening instead of the afternoon. It was firing in the evening. Exhausted. Pictures to come.
I was up in the dirty jersey this weekend. Caught some fun surf yesterday and today. I dont think I was in the best spot as crowds were light but it was fun anyway.
Shot briefly this morning. Surfed this evening and froze my arse off. Still fun.
Yesterday was the only day I got on it over the wknd. Did the early right after hi tide run to Washout, buddy was out there already trying his new boart. I didn't see much so took the LB, didn't catch a wave for like the first 20 min. Slowly tho i was able to catch some thi to waist hi ones. Crowds gathered on different points leaving some areas wide open which we went to. Had a good number of rides and glides to feel pretty good about. Came back out during lo tide, made it a beach day, and was able to get a few more surprisingly. Wind chopped things up in the afternoon, took the Morey boogie out for a spin. Hopefully we get a few more rideable days soon, but that was a good stretch
Saturday afternoon into the evening was fun... the swell built slowly right up until dark. Sunday morning was on fire. Offshore winds both days.
Rode a groovy 7'0 single fin Saturday and the fish yesterday and got a ton of waves. Onshore crap today.
Offshores , long racy rights and 200 of your best friends at 6 am . Followed up with draining lefts mid day , solo sesh and warmer water .
Loving all the stories!
My streak ended at 7 days but I surfed 9 out of the last 10 so not complaining.
This weekend was dope. Longboard on Sat. fish on Sun.. Caught so many waves I can't even remember. Sunday was so awesome at my local. It was crowded af all the way up the strip. This is when it pays to be friendly with the regulars, which I consider myself one of. I was the only one on a board under 9ft and we held down the peak most of the morning. I don't even know half of their names but we all know each other's boards and trucks and as it turns out we have a pretty solid group now.
The day was almost ruined early when I touched my pocket and noticed that I didn't have my van keys. I realized instantly that I locked them inside. We surf the whole sesh and got back to the van and immediately start trying to reach my wife's arm thru a window vent to unlock it. She was just a couple inches short of the lock, when a truck pulls up behind us to get our parking spot. I explain the situation to them and the wife in the other truck produces the perfect tool to unlock the van. We were into the van in under 5 minutes, changed and on the road even faster than normal. Thought I was about to have to pay someone some serious $$$ to unlock my rig. I was stoked to get in without issue!
Grabbed a toasted italian panini for lunch, then headed to our favorite bottle shop for a few afternoon beers. My life is pretty awesome, but when we have surf all week and weekend, it's almost to much! Now, to stop procrastinating and do some actual work