who here has been surfing this week?

Discussion in 'All Discussions' started by Peajay4060, Jan 14, 2015.

  1. Manik

    Manik Well-Known Member

    619
    Dec 25, 2015
    Went out last night with the incoming tide but there really wasn't enough energy in the water up here. Paddled from spot to spot just for the exercise, got a couple of fun ones, but I really mean a couple. Beautiful night, fish were jumping all around, think they were blues.
     
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  2. CJsurf

    CJsurf Well-Known Member

    Apr 28, 2014
    My son and his friend got booted out of the water today surfing at the surfing beach. Waves a little overhead with a drift. Safe to surf in January. Safe to surf after guards leave for the day. Unsafe to surf while the poolswimmer lifeguards are on duty. I hate this place in the summer.
     
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  3. antoine

    antoine Well-Known Member

    Mar 10, 2013
    Memorial day weekend is off to a good start. Small rideable surf this a.m maybe thigh to waist. And then nothing but drunks and fat families who ha wnt seem the sun in a while
     
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  4. UnfurleD

    UnfurleD Well-Known Member

    Jul 13, 2016
    Had a long entertaining wknd. Enuff to feel under the weather today. Too bad working remote isn't much of an excuse to not work when feeling sick. Surfed Sunday morning. Got to Washout several hours before hi tide, took out three boards, rode two - The LB and loehr fish. They were waist hi sets, had some lines to get out but it was sorta weak. It was the only time to get on it this past wknd, so i hustled for several hours with a bud to get on em as much as possible. Crowd wasn't as bad, may have something to do with cloudy, almost rain like conditions or that surfline predicted .5-1ft poor waves
     
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  5. headhigh

    headhigh Well-Known Member

    Jul 17, 2009
    Surfed Friday Morning and Monday. Tides were not in my favor so I ended up catching a lot of sandy tubes. Then did some body surfing and got sunburnt. Burritos and beers after surfing, then a little yard work. Good ol' fashioned American long weekend.
     
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  6. headhigh

    headhigh Well-Known Member

    Jul 17, 2009
    Woke up this morning to thunderstorms and was compelled to check the surf. Looked like crap out front but the buoys were telling a different story. Loaded up the van on a hunch and left the wife snoozing in bed. I had a meeting at 9am so I was on a mission to get some.

    Get to the beach and I could hear waves breaking from my parking spot. Grab my 5'6 twin and run down to the water. I paddle out and there's one other dude getting his medicine on a longboard. After about 15 minutes he gets out and I have the entire spot to myself. A band of rain passes, sun comes back out, and a super bright and vibrant rainbow materializes to the south.

    At this point the rain has cleaned up the surf and I'm picking off waist high nugs. I'm not trying to rush back to the house for my meeting so I start chasing my last wave at 8:20. After a few minutes I get my best wave of the day; a right-hand runner with room for 3 turns. As I'm getting out a few people are starting to show up to the beach. Perfect timing.

    I get changed and mosey back to the house. I'm on the call at 9 with folks from around the globe, a call that I organized and I'm leading, in my boardies with still wet hair. So to recap, I surfed clean waves, by myself, under a rainbow, and still managed to crush it at work. Life is good.
     
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  7. headhigh

    headhigh Well-Known Member

    Jul 17, 2009
    What's up my fellow swellies. Catch any waves lately?

    Another morning of thunderstorms, but today I was expecting the swell. Up at 5 and out the door for dawn patrol. Get to the beach and the sky is very ominous but the surf was pumping. Chest high and clean, no one out. It's storming hard a few miles offshore, lighting every couple minutes, but the surf looked so enticing that I had to paddle out.

    It was super playful windswell, 4.5ft at about 6 seconds. I felt like I had a skatepark all to myself. I catch 3 waves, and on the paddle back out I see a streak of white in the clouds over my right shoulder. Cra-cra-cra-BOOOMMMM lightning hits the water a couple football fields away from me. Instant thunder. I'm terrified and obviously should not have paddled out. My adrenaline is pumping. I sprint paddle in and run all the way to the van.

    I hang out for a bit to see if it would clear up before driving home. On the drive I feel the adrenaline start to subside and my mind clears. WTF was I thinking... LOL. Now i'm sitting at my desk checking emails like I didn't just have a brush with fate.
     
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  8. UnfurleD

    UnfurleD Well-Known Member

    Jul 13, 2016
    I got out there for "sunrise" tho very cloudy that you wouldn't know it. Luckily it was pouring this morning. I saw some soft waves off the cam bout waist hi, so i took the 7'4 fish funshape. Been out with a cold so not in the best shape. It was windy mayhem, but best form was out at the Washout. Choppy, small drift north, chest hi+. Waves were fast n pretty steep - i got rolled on my last wave out. Did have a handful of rides, one long left under a curl my buddy had a good view of, probably the best of the day. Otherwise, i was getting floaters to drop into. Was looking for the shoulder on em, most pplz were kamikazing themselves. I'm pretty content, looking forward to after work 5pm hi tide sess
     
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  9. headhigh

    headhigh Well-Known Member

    Jul 17, 2009
    REDEMPTION SESSION

    Went down for an extended lunchbreak session this afternoon. Always amazing how a couple hours can change conditions so much. Sunny skies, not a single cloud, onshore wind about 5mph, and the surf built to head high on the sets. I was surfing against the clock and caught a **** load of waves on my 5'6 twin. Finally got to open it up on a couple of the better walls. Now I get the twin fin hype.

    Definitely feeling redeemed after running to my van in fear this AM :D
     
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  10. UnfurleD

    UnfurleD Well-Known Member

    Jul 13, 2016
    Friday evening was a quick round as the leash broke on me. Took both shorties, chest hi quick chop rides. Had some really nice rides for that short bit tho. Felt pretty good bout it knowing my next day plans. Sat early morning drove up to IOP, took some thi hi, occ waist hi ones out on 27th on the LB. Only a handful of us out there getting it on that side of the pier. Was there for the sand sculpture contest they have annually, always great to see what they create. Got to see my ol college buddy out there with his bro, they won the family part with a friendly, playful whale jizz joke. He wanted to do the no parking sign, i recommended a coyote biting down a small poodle but whale jizz for the win. That evening took it back to folly to get to ride the 6'9 loehr fish at washout. Was there for a couple hours hoping it would clean up, but waist hi rideables were fine for me. It was a long endurance of sun worship. Got the car, RAV4, booked for Cali trip. Nothing even close to cool book otherwise unfortunately. Inventory may be low or sumtin, but checked that off the f'n list. Slept well
     
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  11. headhigh

    headhigh Well-Known Member

    Jul 17, 2009
    Pics of the sandcastle contest please! LOL
     
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  12. CJsurf

    CJsurf Well-Known Member

    Apr 28, 2014
    Sloppy waist to chest high waves this evening. Took out a 90s high performance board just to see if I could still ride it. First wave on it was just like I'd never gotten off of it then never caught another wave with enough push to make it go. Going to have to try this one again in some waves that have push.
     
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  13. Manik

    Manik Well-Known Member

    619
    Dec 25, 2015
    Didn't think we'd have any swell today, so I over did it with drinking last night (2 mojitos and a six pack of tall Narragansetts, enough to make me feel like shit this morning, Im a light weight). There are waves right now, need to get motivated.
     
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  14. Manik

    Manik Well-Known Member

    619
    Dec 25, 2015
    Hangover gone and stoke level super high!! Everyone was scratching for closeouts at the town beach, the spot I hit up only had a few others out, I got so many fun ones including a few that had size, deep bottom turns onto an open face, set my line and fun, fun, fun. Life is good.
     
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  15. antoine

    antoine Well-Known Member

    Mar 10, 2013
    Finally got some fun surf after a long visit from a high pressure system. Friday solid 3 afternoon sesh.
    Saturday 2 to 3 morning on the incoming tide and today 2 ft but good energy in the wave. Great weather and Geeze What's with the food prices at the grocery store?
     
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  16. UnfurleD

    UnfurleD Well-Known Member

    Jul 13, 2016
    Just curious what boart it was. Took off the roof racks Saturday, stopped being optimistic on waves after getting cold shoulder for most of week. Did glide on the LB Saturday, thi hi leftovers from all the chop,mush we had during the week. May get a shot of swell tomorrow or wednesday, hopefully
     
  17. Wavestrom

    Wavestrom Well-Known Member

    477
    Jul 5, 2014
    Took a rare trip up to NH as that's where the waves were. Not as crowded as I feared and the water was warm enough to skip booties for the first time this year (thank god). My only complaint is that I am spoiled by surfing beach breaks without any rocks so I had to pay more attention when ending a ride than usual.
     
  18. dave

    dave Well-Known Member

    429
    Dec 11, 2008
    paddled out Sunday at dawn, an hour after low. It was waist+ and every 20-25 minutes a head high+ wave would roll through. The tide line on the beach was absolutely disgustingly filled with debris, however, the water was very clean and clear. Surfed for 3 hrs, then it started to fill in with the moon tide, and the wind picked up going a little sideshore, so I went home and ate 3 slices of leftover pizza heated up in the air fryer and then right after that I had a ham egg and cheese on a bagel (but I gave the top of the bagel to the dog). Then I read the Post on my deck and watched the gardener work for the next 2 hours. Great Sunday
     
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  19. headhigh

    headhigh Well-Known Member

    Jul 17, 2009
    Glad to hear you guys are getting some!

    I scored pretty good on Saturday. Found a secluded spot with free parking and surfed for a solid 4+ hours. The waves just kept coming and there was enough push that I wasn't wearing myself out scratching for waves. It was overcast and cool and the sea breeze didn't kick up until late in the day. Passing showers kept all the tourons locked safely away in their vacation rentals.

    Afterwards I hit my favorite bottle shop for some brews and enjoyed some authentic Venezuelan food from a food truck. Then we hit a brewery and continued to consume beverages. Awesome Saturday.
     
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  20. CJsurf

    CJsurf Well-Known Member

    Apr 28, 2014
    6'6 x 19 3/4 x 2 1/2. One of my early shapes that I copied off of a Natural Art. Picture below taken before sanding which is why the reflections look funny. My board building and my logo have improved considerably. The board on the right is now almost as brown with age as the original.

    Was happy that at almost 52 I can still ride something like this. I purchased that Natural art in 1991 or 1992 and it was by far the best board I ever owned. A one board quiver. The main reason I got back into making boards was because I couldn't find a board like this in a shop anymore.

    31689_1186022469519_7980491_n.jpg
     
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