who here has been surfing this week?

Discussion in 'All Discussions' started by Peajay4060, Jan 14, 2015.

  1. UnfurleD

    UnfurleD Well-Known Member

    Jul 13, 2016
    Think it was thurs when a buddy reached out to me to check on if waves would clean up evening after elsa pushed thru. I had surfed 3-4 days prior, so i was leaning towards taking a break and surfing clean up next day. It wasn't all that manageable, chop for sure and the waves would peter out when u thought you had something. Didn't really catch a ride, and friday was too spent on going that morning where it was about waist hi at best. Sat morning i biked it to washout for thi hi-ness. It was meh, so for us at least here on Folly the best of the storm was beforehand. Got some days ahead during work week to get a lil more riding in before it's real summer, spotty in the foreseeable future
     
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  2. headhigh

    headhigh Well-Known Member

    Jul 17, 2009
    Been surfing a lot lately. Been working a lot too. So much that I havn't been able to goof off on here as much and tell my stories of surf, food, and beer.

    This weekend I went north to find some open beach. I get there and in the water quick. The tide was dropping (good) but the wind was coming up (bad). I'll say that some of my best sessions were in that in-between time, where one condition is getting better while others are getting worse.

    I paddle out, and immediately see a nice set coming my way. I catch it on the reform and I'm racing down a nice waist-high wall. Get a few bottom turns, a couple floaters and a big dramatic kick-out turn over the back. Awesome way to start the sesh, except that was the only wave of the entire session like it!! Noooo.

    I proceed to sit there for two more hours, fat waves not breaking, others just slamming in a foot of water with no where to go. I was on the 8'0 Catch Surf Log so I was charging the shorebreak but one can only do that so long without 1) getting hurt or 2) getting bored. It was the latter for me.

    I ditch the board and bodysurf for a bit, then head home. Made a couple collard green wraps for the wife and I with blanched collards, homemade ranch dressing, homegrown tomatoes and jalapenos, onions, carrots, pepper jack cheese, the whole 9 yards. They were awesome and hardly any carbs since the collards are the wrap.
     
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  3. CJsurf

    CJsurf Well-Known Member

    Apr 28, 2014
    Surprisingly fun little wave this evening. Every once in a while a couple of peaks would converge giving a chest high takeoff that would get you into a little waist high race track for about 20 or 30 yards. Glad I biked up for a look.

    Also may have had a shark encounter. Had a rather tall and somewhat narrow fin slice through the surface about 15 yards away. It never emerged again and only cought a brief glimpse. Really would have been happier if that one would have shown itself again and the fact that it didn't leads me to believe even more that it was a shark and not a dolphin. Seemed too tall and narrow for a dolphin. The shape and what I saw broght to mind the tall narrow fin of a hammerhead.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jul 12, 2021
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  4. Manik

    Manik Well-Known Member

    709
    Dec 25, 2015
    They cleared the beaches here about a week ago, but weren't sure if the fin was a shark or sunfish. Supposedly it was circling, making me think it was a shark, but not wanting to scare the tourists and tourist money, they are going to push sunfish. It was all over the news. The cape has been getting a lot of sightings. Lots are tagged and you can follow their path online. They seem to like Block Island quite a bit. We definitely share the ocean.
     
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  5. antoine

    antoine Well-Known Member

    Mar 10, 2013
    The past 2 weekends I've been going up to Daytona beach to hang with some newer friends and surf.
    Great group of people . bbq on the beach where everyone is welcome. They feed lots of people and no one is turned away.
    Good surfing people as well. Its a great mix of skill and fun.
    I'm glad I dont live there but I can't wait to get back up there.
    Waves have been around 2 to lucky 3 the past 2 weeks consistently. Best July so far in a long time.
     
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  6. headhigh

    headhigh Well-Known Member

    Jul 17, 2009
    Surprisingly fun surf this morning. Waist high and super clean. Caught a bunch of fun ones on the log and even got my hair washed on a couple of em. The Cap says we'll have something to ride for the next couple days. Better not be lying to me!!!
     
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  7. UnfurleD

    UnfurleD Well-Known Member

    Jul 13, 2016
    yea, i was also surprised how swell managed to creep into waist hi status yesterday. Biked all the way to washout, was worthy. Guys on shortys sat on the inside, making the most of it off carolina cutbacks. Loggers, like myself that day, rode them to shore. Had a good handful of nice flying down the line ones in less than an hour. We might have another run at it today, looks clean knee hi - drained out from lo tide. Headhigh, surfCap is showing a good chest hi swell for so Cali come next week
     
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  8. UnfurleD

    UnfurleD Well-Known Member

    Jul 13, 2016
    we did have another run at it. Same as yesterday,less ppl in the water this time. This should be last sess before cali. Should also be my last bike ride to Washout. It's not been as bad as i thought it would be and glad i made it work now realizing how long this fix is taking. Critter ate up my car's engine harness wiring system couple wknds back. Should have my car next week, hopefully before my trip out. Also kinda tired of riding the LB
     

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  9. headhigh

    headhigh Well-Known Member

    Jul 17, 2009
    Nice looking setup!! And thanks for the heads up about the cali forecast. Hope it holds out! I have not been looking. Got to try and focus on work somehow. That ship has sailed now though. 4 work days til my vacay.

    Got some again this morning. Still the same swell as the last several days. Almost rode my fish but instinct told me to ride the log. It was the right call. Some dude even told me so on the way back to my car haha. I saw him out there not getting s*** on his 6'6ish looking fish. Nice guy tho. Would have sat there and talked but I wanted to get some breaky on the way home. Port City Java has a jalapeno bagel that is on point. With a green smoothie it was *chef kiss*.

    I'm going to try again for the tiny leftovers tomorrow. edit: surf leftovers not food :D
     
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  10. CJsurf

    CJsurf Well-Known Member

    Apr 28, 2014
    Did the beach buggy surf trip thing today. Spot was crowded and the waves marginal but got a couple of fun ones.
     
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  11. Peajay4060

    Peajay4060 Well-Known Member

    Nov 14, 2011
    What's Happening?

    Got a couple of surfs in at dusk last 2 days. Buttery little beach break biscuits. Have a Bar that's close to the beach with a deep hole on the ocean side and fairly deep on the shore side. The little bump would rise up and it would peel just right on the 2nd wave of the set. good enough for a after work rinse on a LB. Just a fade turn, run to the front third stick five out five through the slot and back to float the crash. Had it to myself. The rest of the fam have been beaching all day so couldn't get anyone to join me. The water is warm and clear and the sun set as the moon rose. Both are red from the effect of wild fire smoke. Too cool. I had planned to fish the bay on the way back but both times I forgot shoes. The drive back over the bay was sweet w/good tunes and a road soda.
     
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  12. CJsurf

    CJsurf Well-Known Member

    Apr 28, 2014
    Went up to the beach this evening for an hour to shoot. Waves and lighting kind of sucked. Probably my best shot of the evening.

    221621326_10215775913269598_5861895876274159724_n.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jul 26, 2021
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  13. Peajay4060

    Peajay4060 Well-Known Member

    Nov 14, 2011
    Hey What's Happening?
    Was on the B dawn till dusk Sat. little zippers all day for fun for the whole family. LB and foamies. Only neeeded trunks and a bucket hat. A small humpback was doing a job on bunker pods not 20 yards away from us. Finished up the night by eating falafel and getting drunk with the neighbors.
    Onshore all day Sunday so checked it at dawn today. Nice summer windswell leftover waves perfect for the fish. Just a few heads so got a load of good rides for a couple of hours. Left before I had to. Had my fill and my shoulder wasn't sore.

    anybody else get waves?
     
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  14. Peajay4060

    Peajay4060 Well-Known Member

    Nov 14, 2011


    friggin Joe man

    Edit
    Wrong thread!
     
    Last edited: Jul 26, 2021
  15. Manik

    Manik Well-Known Member

    709
    Dec 25, 2015
    I love Joe Walsh, he still shreds live.
    Just got out of the water a little bit ago. Very small, just enough to push the log. I basically got on it with the out going tide to almost dead low. It was decent at first but faded for a while. The few others out gave up, I kept scratching for anything. I'm glad I did, the last half hour it picked up a little, got a few legit ones. One of my last was about waist and walled up for a while, got a nice bottom turn, plus a fun cutback into the wave then turned back and it walled up again on the inside for another fun little run. So nice to get wet, even in small surf.
    My garden is producing, I have a nice squash and a lot of green beans for a side tonight. Thinking steak tips on the grill tonight.
     
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  16. Betty

    Betty Well-Known Member

    Oct 14, 2012
    In my mind, there are great waves and there are waves that are unrideable.

    But even those unrideable days, it was a thrill to just paddle out, hang out with my crew, enjoy being on the water, smelling the wonderfulness of being out there, away from life’s work… is it surfing?

    I would say yes. There you are on the board, patiently waiting for something to glide on, even if its a short piece of white water…

    Is it your fave session: maybe not, but it’s still fun!
     
  17. Peajay4060

    Peajay4060 Well-Known Member

    Nov 14, 2011
    @Manik
    Between my edible landscape and a farm collective we're part of, we haven't bought a store veggie for a while. Even while away we brought our produce!

    This winter I wrapped the fig tree for the 1st time and it is exploding with figs. Eat 2 or 3 a day. In salads, on pizza, or just on a plate with cured meat and nuts. Keeps you regular! Got blueberries too.. Summer squash doing OK. Cacuzza vines are growing up my maple tree ready to flower. Butternut just starting to take the front lawn over. Cucumbers doing OK and a couple of big eggplant already. Tomatoes are still green. All my beans are hurting. Not sure why.

    Anyway surfing. My boy promised he'd take me tomorrow morning. We'll see if he gets up.
     
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  18. Manik

    Manik Well-Known Member

    709
    Dec 25, 2015
    That's awesome PJ, this is the first year I've been able to have a garden in a long time, I want to get to where you are at, an over abundance. I did everything from seed for the first time in my life, so far so good. I'm on my forth squash and beans have been producing, getting green tomatoes and a few cukes, and have a bunch of different peppers going but nothing yet.
    That's so killer about the figs, my dad had a couple of little trees in his yard in California. Fresh figs are so different than dried.

    Got out again today, exact repeat of yesterday but snagged about the same number of waves in half the time. It was probably better with the incoming, but schedules are schedules, I'll take what I can get in July when I can.
     
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  19. UnfurleD

    UnfurleD Well-Known Member

    Jul 13, 2016
    while my inbox is loading the 1000 emails since i've been on vaca, i'll report on the So Cali mission. Stayed up in Costa Mesa for a few days, surfed mostly Newport Beach in front of the Froghouse Surf shop, close by the river jetties. It was a fast shore break that would usually spit waist+ hi swell. We found that that break would be almost a guarantee while other areas were meh. Surfed south Huntington pier one sess when it was early and less crowded. Did take the whole day to surf trestles, that was one of the better/best breaks. Shoulder hi swell, long walk, thanks to Headhigh for providing a lil more insight on how to make that all happen. Did have a decent run at Salt Creek Beach in Dana Point on another day, that was a popular but fun couple breaks. The waves were picking up over the wknd as we were to migrate down to San Diego. From what i saw from cams and surf reports, waves got size and cleaner in orange county than where we went further south. We even considered Trestles again while down there when it was 6ft+
     
  20. curl

    curl Well-Known Member

    312
    Apr 30, 2013