who here has been surfing this week?

What a day. Ida leftovers went over us last night dumping lots of rain, putting some energy in the water. I checked a spot I love and haven't surfed in months, and there were waves and the wind was offshore. I was super excited, been jonesing for water time, plus no one out at a perfect lefthander (I'm not a goofy but this wave is so damn good). When I get out, it was less than stellar. There was energy, but the winds were howling and went to side shore, offshore. Lots of texture and bump, and getting hung up with whipping spray right in the face. I almost called it but it's a long walk to get there so figured I'd just make the most of it. I finally got a couple decent ones, one had size and I was on right at the peak, so much wind I was going over huge sideshore bumps, literally bunny hopping sections. First hour and a half was like this, then the wind died a little and the sun came out. I ended up getting a lot of quality waves. The spot is inconsistent but with patience some perfect headhigh peelers come rolling through. The only reason I got out was my shoulders, after 4+ hours, they were giving up on me. My pop ups were getting harder, it was time to come in.
I took a drive after and a lot of spots are working with almost no one out. One of those days.
My tomatoes are coming in big time. One of my favorite ways to use them is chop up a bunch, slow cook them in olive oil with fresh chopped garlic. Make your pasta of choice, drain, dump into the frying pan and mix, best sauce ever.
Also love making salsa with the plum tomatoes. The fact the don't give off too much juice is a plus. Chop them small, chop an onion small, chop peppers small ( I like to mix both sweet and hot, I have bell peppers, ghost, jalepeno, and chili's growing. Not my best year honestly but enough.) Add a little white vinegar, a little oil (doesn't have to be olive), and salt. Cilantro helps but I don't have any. I'll make a big ass bowl of it when people are over and it will always be the first thing to go.

 

didn't get me outta bed at 6:30, but by 7am i was loading up the car. Larger than what i was expecting when i rolled out to washout, bombers would come thru about head hi. Lil sideshore, so some outlets rather than full closeout board breakers which i'm anticipating w Larry. Lil northerly drift, good bit of waiting and choosing. Had a few since i was only out bout 30 min or so. Will need to take a shorty next time, but def some to be had. We might have wind issues this evening on rising tide

 

What a great day. Took a peak at the spot early and was surprised to see solid chest to head high and not a lot out. I said f@#k it, called off for the day, took care off all my responsibilities early and was out around 11 am. As soon as I paddle out, I'm catching my breath, I see everyone paddling outside. I dig deep and make it over a huge cleanup set. It had gotten bigger, I was a little overwhelmed at first. I decided to sit deep knowing more plus sized sets would come through, and about 10 minutes later it did. I was the only one in position, everyone else was just trying to get over, and I paddled into a bomb. Made the drop, wave was well overhead, and walled up forever. Not once did I have to race to make a section, it was so damn perfect. It went all the way to the next named spot, poor guys waiting for it and I'm fully on, it peaked up again and I was gone, gone, gone. Longest and best wave I've had all year. When I finally kicked out I couldn't believe the distance I covered, and we have some long ass point breaks here.
I decided to stay at the second spot, didn't want to paddle all the way to my starting point, and am glad I did. It was just perfect, actually had more protection from the side shore wind so it was almost glassy on the inside. Super long rides, that would actually take me to the very last named spot in that stretch of coast. I would have to cut in a few times to stay on and let it wall up again, not as heavy as the first spot and wave, but just so much fun.
I don't think I can call off for Friday, but that's ok, today was great, and not many out. Hopefully I can wrap up early and get a sunset session in. Or I can call in again, lol, I am my own boss. (Customers might not like that though, I need to add a surfing clause to my contracts).

 

Hell yea dude. I can tell you're stoked!!

 

So stoked, hope everyone scores, life is good.

 

If any of you swellies ever want to make a trip up, definitely msg me. I kind of like the crew that stuck around, it's all about the stoke ,positivity, surfing. Especially you Curl, I'll never forget the hookup.

 

Love to share a wave with you one day PJ, if you come up you can get Seldom out, we can have a clam BAKE, lol

 

Are you east coast or west coast?

 

We got the goods today, you can check the forecast for my spot, you know it. Rain tomorrow, no change in size, then we get it Friday, leftovers Saturday...

 

Got out for a little over an hour this morning. Nice size and wind conditions but the waves were all over the place. Tide seemed really full even at mid-tide creating bad backwash. Spent the first 30 minutes dropping into big closeouts. Got a little more selective for the back half of the session, which meant I didn't catch many waves at all.

 

yesterday lunch swell i took the LB thinking it was a bit smaller on lo tide. Not so much the case, and i had to really seek some outlets. Got a few down the street, kept drifting into the pier. Had one was thinking of taking thru the pier, but ours is under construction with a couple more obstacles in the way. Took the 6'9 loehr fish this morning, cloudy with spots of rain. Ev3erybody jumped on my side of the pier this time. Waist to chest fun swell, seemed a bit soft. Had plenty of rides but on my last paddle out, talkin bout soft, had a shoulder hi wave break right on me. Could feel the power on my back, but it actually bumped out my O'Fish'L fin. Those are hard to find, so not sure when i'll be able to take out the loehr again

 

Drove 80 miles North to a contest where the waves absolutely sucked. Drove 80 miles home. Waves were firing right at the end of my street. Go figure. Pictures to come.

 

Up North.....



End of my street........

 

Jeebus crypes! 160miles just to walk to the end of your street?
I feel ya on the contest. We had one on labor day where the winner rode a 1ft wave. For about 3 seconds

 

Good morning fellas.

I get back to the office after my less-than-satisfying session yesterday morning and just as I am logging in, my phone lights up. My surfing buddy has a old friend in town and he's taking him to a super secret spot that I have never been to. I'm def wanting more after my wonky morning session so I tell him I'm going to do everything I can to get out of work in time.

Noon rolls around, I log off (fug it, I'm in my notice period with this job anyway), and head to my friend's house, where he has a boat in the water waiting for us. We make our way out for the 45 minute ride to the spot in driving rain. The boat has some cover so I settle in, eat lunch and have a beer.

We get to the spot before low tide and paddle out into the inside which is still a good 200 yards off the beach. I catch a few fat chunkers on my 8'0 but I can see that the outside, wayyy on the tip of the point is absolutely grinding. After an hour or so we head to the boat to take a break.

I'm trying to chill but I'm amping to get back out there. The dudes I'm with are all significantly older than me so they want to chill and recharge for round 2, which I respect, so I eat a little food and have another beer. We wait till the tide goes completely slack we decide to head for the point.

To get out there you can either paddle the .5 mile or so, or go right to the middle of the sandbar and wade the same distance. We take the wading route but when the water gets waist high the on-shore current was so strong that it was hard to make any progress. I look over and some people that started paddling maybe 20 minutes before we started walking are stuck in the inside. At one point I decide that I'm going to punch through at all costs. I start trudging into the current, taking head high waves to the head in like 2ft of water, and after 10 minutes I pop out into the lineup. I say 10 minutes but it felt like an hour. My legs were so done.

At this point the sun was back out, the wind had completely stopped and it's milky glass conditions. The waves were every bit of head high, breaking in 2-3 ft of water throwing thick lips down the point. There were some very good surfers out there doing step-offs with jetskis, getting stand up tubes and just ripping. I on the other hand, am riding a 8ft Catch Surf foamy. (If you're still reading at this point, thank you)

I start catching wave after wave, getting a nice early entry on the big board, dropping in with as much speed as I could and racing the tube. I'll admit, I have never surfed a wave that was throwing a lip as thick as this. I can still see it come over my head (or feel it catching me in the side of the neck). Crystal clear blue water too. I have never been to Indo but I imagine it would be like this.

Every once in a while I would catch a wave with a more southerly direction and it would stay wide open. Just a big wall grinding down the point. I would kick out of these just so I wouldn't end up in the inside and have to paddle a mile back out. I ended up slicing my thumb on a fin and decided to head in before I became a meal, so the next southerly wave I caught I rode alllll the way in, through the inside, into 6 inches of water. I was on that wave for like 30 seconds.

Waking up this morning I feel like yesterday was a dream. I feel like I just got back from a trip or something. That crystal clear lip coming over my head with the crack of the wave behind me keeps replaying. I'll remember this day for the rest of my life.

 

Played hooky, did a early morning session, 4 waves and I was done. Took this pic about half hour ago, going to spend the rest of the day taking pics.
Sick pics CJ, sometimes there is no rhyme or reason to who gets it. There is a spot here barely shoulder, lol... then you get this a mile down the road