who here has been surfing this week?

Discussion in 'All Discussions' started by Peajay4060, Jan 14, 2015.

  1. LBCrew

    LBCrew Well-Known Member

    Aug 12, 2009
  2. dave

    dave Well-Known Member

    439
    Dec 11, 2008
    Monday was a strange day. Woke up and noticed the water was clean, almost tourquoise, and glassy with a gutless thigh-hi bump. Paddled out into a sea as thick with scalps as I've ever seen it. Also, could see the bottom in 20 feet of water. Took a couple waves, ran home and exchanged board for gun. Fresh fish every night this week.
     
    Manik and headhigh like this.

  3. headhigh

    headhigh Well-Known Member

    Jul 17, 2009
    Had a great time and caught a ton of waves in Cali over the last week, but let's take a couple steps back. Why do I keep going back to San Clemente?

    It all started about 8 years ago on my first visit to CA. I was driving south on I-5 toward my future sister-in-law's place in SD. It was about 1am after travelling all day and I wanted to find a gas station to buy some smokes (I have quit since then). So I pull off at a random exit, onto some random Spanish sounding road.

    I locate a convenience store, buy a pack of p-funks, and walk outside to catch a burn. I'm looking around and every building, even the gas station and taco bell, are built in the old Spanish style with stuccoed walls and terracotta roofs. Then I look down the hill and I could see the ocean. It seemed like a pretty cool town, and I promised myself that someday I'd come back and explore it some more.

    Next year my future wife and I plan another trip to SD. We buy non-refundable plane tickets and make plans to stay at her sisters house again. Then, about 2 week before the trip they have a huge fight (parents were going thru an ugly divorce), and we were uninvited by the sister. So we had plane tickets to cali and no place to stay. How about a surf trip? Yes. What was that town I wanted to check out? San Clemente. Any surf spots around there? ...oh s***!!!

    So we go to SC, and spend every day for a week at Trestles. Cottons to Churches, we hit 'em all. Good swell that week, and the Hurley pro was going on too. It was awesome, but when we left I felt like there was so much more to explore.

    Fast forward to 2021. Wifey and her sister are back on speaking terms and it's time to go for a visit. This time I do all the planning. SC again, but closer to downtown. I wanted to surf some of the spots I skipped over on the last trip. I also didn't want the stress of the rental car.

    So, to the trip and the surfing. We had a airbnb between t-street and del mar (the main drag). So many great places to eat and drink just a short walk away. Yea NC BBQ is great but the west coast just does food better, especially Asian and Mexican. We took advantage of the ganja delivery services out there which was surreal and awesome for a southeasterner.

    We also took full advantage of the time difference and were up at dawn every day. First we hit north SC pier (bleh), then south SC pier (better but, f***ed by the black ball), and T-street (epic, but f***ed by the black ball there too). We also went to SD and hit La Jolla shores and made the walk to Scripps Pier. Scripps was the most surprising of the trip. It broke really well there and the water was super clean and clear, with tons of sealife. Great LB wave. T-st was the best surf of the trip by far and it got to head high on Monday. There were some really good surfers out there. Legit body boarders too. After they kick all the surfers out of the water t-st is a body boarder's paradise. I ALMOST rented a BB and some fins.

    Instead I ended up buying a 5'6 foamy from the Catch Surf flagship store. They custom stamped it for me and sent me to the corporate headquarters up the hill to get a box so I didn't have to buy a boardbag to get it home. Can't say enough about how friendly and accommodating the catch surf guys were. Southwest destroyed the box but somehow the board survived the trip back. $75 each way for a surfboard on Southwest in case you're wondering.

    Anywho, it was an awesome, relaxing, super satisfying trip and I did all the things I wanted to do. TBH I didn't even care about going to trestles this trip. Next time though, I'm renting a couple e-bikes for the week as that is def the locals' preferred transport and spending more time at the cobblestone beach.

    TL : DR - Cali sucks and you should never go there to surf.
     
    Last edited: Jul 29, 2021
    smitty517, UnfurleD, Carson and 3 others like this.
  4. dave

    dave Well-Known Member

    439
    Dec 11, 2008
    you should check out Animal Kingdom on Amazon Prime Video
     
    headhigh likes this.
  5. Manik

    Manik Well-Known Member

    709
    Dec 25, 2015
    Stoked for you HH and Unfurled, love hearing west coast tales.
    It's been a couple of years for me, and unfortunately my last time was to bury my pops and sell the house. The day I left I took my sis to the airport pre dawn, was going to take the 15 back but said f it, I took the 5 till I can get on the 101 and look at the ocean. The sun was just coming up, dawn patrollers were paddling out, I got a little emotional. Got on the road and drove back east.
    I have so much good family out there, they trip on the fact I'm out here. But I live in a great town, and my kid is everything. Life is good.
    Yeah, California uber alles, let the haters hate, I love the place.
     
    headhigh likes this.
  6. Carson

    Carson Well-Known Member

    593
    May 19, 2006
    Not gonna lie. I miss it. Well, I don't miss ALL of it. I do miss the easy access to the surf and the Mexican food (don't tell my wife I said that. I SWORE to her we could find good Mexican in RTP, but so far...meh...). I just have to remain grateful that I got to live that life for 5 years and I didn't have to commute more than 7 minutes to work the whole time.

    HH and Unfurled, I'm bummed that I wasn't there to meet up while you were in Cali. Now we'll have to hit up some 'cane swell here in the Southeast.
     
    Manik and headhigh like this.
  7. headhigh

    headhigh Well-Known Member

    Jul 17, 2009
    Yes indeed! And if you find a legit cali-style burrito in RTP, please let me know. I'll drive 2 hours for that haha.
     
  8. Carson

    Carson Well-Known Member

    593
    May 19, 2006
    Best one I've found so far was in my kitchen. lol
     
  9. Peajay4060

    Peajay4060 Well-Known Member

    Nov 14, 2011
    what's RTP?

    anyhoo wanted a late morning surf today with the boy. I let him sleep. the beach parks were all open but can't go in the water due to black tips ripping through bunker pods. Never seen that before.

    speaking of never seen before it's snowing in Brazil.
     
  10. headhigh

    headhigh Well-Known Member

    Jul 17, 2009
    From Wikipedia: Research Triangle Park (RTP) is the largest research park in the United States. It is named for its location relative to the three surrounding cities of Raleigh, Durham, and Chapel Hill, or more properly, for the three major research universities in them: North Carolina State University, Duke University and University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill respectively.

    Following World War II, North Carolina's economy could no longer depend upon their traditional industries of agriculture, textiles, and furniture; their market share was in decline with jobs disappearing. Academics at N.C. State and Duke University came up with the idea of creating the park so that the universities could do research together, leverage the area's strengths, and keep graduates in the state.
     
    Peajay4060 and Carson like this.
  11. UnfurleD

    UnfurleD Well-Known Member

    Jul 13, 2016
    work sux. 1500 emails, i underestimated the shyttyness. Bout San Diego, we stopped at Swami's first after leaving Costa Mesa. Didn't see it firing at Carlsbad, Cardiff or Oceanside. Swami's wasn't doing anything, so we took it to Blacks. To see thru the water is great. To ride to shore and be greeted by d!cks wasn't. I did go further south, but i guess that barrier has been broken. We stayed at Ocean Beach, but didn't surf there. Could've a couple times by the Jetty, but we were staying down the pier and there wasn't anything worthwhile on shortys. Times we were considering the jetty, my buddies backed out cuz of how beat we were. We did stop the next day at Swami's again, but it wasn't working so we had to cross that place off our list unfortunately. The further north we went, the better. Oceanside Pier was head hi, and the rides were long north of the pier. Our last surf sess was at Windansea. Cool point break, but the locals had it and weren't letting go haha. I got a lil north of it to take the lefts. Good times tho. Got two solid dingers on my board after all said and done
     
    Carson, Manik and headhigh like this.
  12. Carson

    Carson Well-Known Member

    593
    May 19, 2006
    Little north, right before the house is called Simmons for Bob Simmons.
    http://www.legendarysurfers.com/2016/11/bob-simmons-1919-1954.html

    I got married there.

    IMG_0311.jpg IMG_0174.jpg
     
    headhigh, Manik and UnfurleD like this.
  13. curl

    curl Well-Known Member

    312
    Apr 30, 2013
    Great pics Carson , congrats on number 2 wife , rumor has it they are keepers .
     
    Carson likes this.
  14. curl

    curl Well-Known Member

    312
    Apr 30, 2013
  15. CJsurf

    CJsurf Well-Known Member

    Apr 28, 2014
    Was pretty sick for about 7 days. Went up to the Chip Miller benefit surf contest on Friday to shoot and surf in the parent child division. Waves were really good during the early heats and remained contestable all day. Low res samples of my shots.

    224731745_10215797581091280_6438537863547668700_n.jpg
    225817324_10215797573451089_3635086506199131660_n.jpg
    226964782_10215797572131056_4269932517359079707_n.jpg
    224824197_10215797565250884_7846935883857036325_n.jpg
    224579329_10215797585051379_555097009622358490_n.jpg
    225296674_10215797584051354_4788645886935361503_n.jpg
     
  16. curl

    curl Well-Known Member

    312
    Apr 30, 2013
    CJ 08E39D7B-7F50-4C86-A2D6-A490044F1F7F.jpeg
     
    Manik and headhigh like this.
  17. curl

    curl Well-Known Member

    312
    Apr 30, 2013
    CJ , photo was shot from a 28 Mako , although my friend said he couldnt get close he stated this Hammer was large . Est 12 ft plus , bout 1 mile out off Long Branch
     
    headhigh likes this.
  18. CJsurf

    CJsurf Well-Known Member

    Apr 28, 2014
    Nice!!! Coming in from the Baltimore Canyon a few years ago my son and I were in the tower of the boat we were running and we passed a massive hammerhead that was up on the surface like that. It was quite a sight looking down on it as we passed by it cruising along.
     
  19. Manik

    Manik Well-Known Member

    709
    Dec 25, 2015
    Some fun little buttery waves today. Almost no wind, pretty consistent, few out, yes....

    Needed it after yesterday. I pulled up to my spot, was talking to a touron, and a really nice pealing wave rolled through. And that wave was it. I paddled out and scratched for 2 hours for anything, got maybe 4 waves. I almost got frustrated but the other kid out was making the most of it, was stoked to get anything and always smiling. It was beautiful out and here I was sitting off shore looking at about a hundred tourists on the cliff looking at me, I'm sure some wishing they were in the water themselves. Had a little internal positivity check. Life is good.
     
    Carson likes this.
  20. Peajay4060

    Peajay4060 Well-Known Member

    Nov 14, 2011
    Hey What's Happening?
    Been long boarding a few times over the last few days small clean peelers. Standing straight up at the nose after take off, hands raised like a roller coaster kind of riding. Last night as the sun set and this morning as it rose. So much life in the water with whales dolphin and sharks all over. Crazy scene indeed. Made it home in time to make breakfast of salami and eggs with fresh figs and coffee before a meeting.

    Looks like a couple more days of swell on the way. Hope everyone gets theirs!
     
    Last edited: Aug 3, 2021
    LBCrew likes this.