Yea... long period E swell this morning at first light producing some beautifully glassy, waist high closeouts up here. LOL
Got to surf Saturday and Sunday. I shouldn't complain about the soft waves or lack of size but who doesn't want more size and power? Any way. I looked around and found some stomach high waves for a few hours both days with light variable winds warm 80° air water about 70°. No rubber needed so far. Just raw doggin it down here in central Florida
Looking pretty flat around here until at least Christmas. Was looking at some Memories on Facebook and four years ago this past weekend we had a great swell. It was also frigid and there was a couple of inches of snow on the beach. Pictures taken in Asbury Park.
Dec s history has produced great waves over the years here CJ, I live in the area so I can make that statement. Atlantic green and tubes , very nice.
Corp of Engineer s sand pipe which is hooked up to offshore sand hoppers . The profile or size of the sand can not be replicated , hence the beaches retain a mutant wave style for years .
Is that the Deal stretch? I've been waiting to see when they'd start. They're gonna bury not only all the surf spots, but the spearfishing spots, too. I'm pissed...
I know that house. Great memories surfing around there. They did something similar to our beaches a few years ago. killed some good breaks that have not returned. Must say that right after they did it there was an absolute mutant way outer bar that lasted all winter. Some of the biggest waves in my recent memory with power and great shape to boot. Quite a few all time sessions that winter until a few spring storms spread out the sand. Then those bars did as designed. Drained all energy out of the swell. It doesn't last though. It's been 5 years and those beaches are starting to show life again. During those 5 years other spots popped up. That's the beach break game. Find new spots surf em until they either die or overcrowd. Find new spots. Repeat.
we get the army corp out here every year, sometimes twice a year all down Folly Beach. For some reason, the breaks stay rather consistent here. Some ppl bitch that it's crapped out once they wrap up, but it really don't. The spots haven't changed in 10 yrs. Guess we're lucky, prolly sumtin to do with sand recon structure/setup down here. We're supposed to get some swell starting tomorrow. Been a while - maybe a month come to think bout it, hoping to get the goods on early,early Friday after tuning in tomorrow to see how they're shaping up. Prolly get on it one of the wknd mornings too with a lil more time and less worrying over when i need to pack it in for work. Hi tides be early this wknd, never know if it'll produce thereafter
ahh man what i would do to have had my sealegs this morning. I was getting crushed and couldn't get the board under me until the end of the sess. Hit DP at the Washout with a bud, chest hi w some shoulders if you was patient. We forgot our watches so when i was striking out early, i def tried to increase my wave count. Took the 6'9 loehr twin fin but quickly realized i wished i would've brought my shorty out there to make it out off the line. I got a few decent rides, more just getting crushed. Looking forward to tomorrow, it's like 70 degrees out here in Charleston
Went N Washout Saturday morning, solo sess. It was early. Lineups got packed south but the 3 guys in our block stayed and no one else came thru in the 2 hr sess. Had the Loehr more dialed in. Nothing to write home about, but plenty of stomach hi rides. Then Sunday late afternoon, rain forecast was no more and tide was building, so 3 of us decided to venture for what would be the last warm day before the cold front and winds along with it. We made the right decision, tho i wish i would've taken priority of a thruster but it was day 3 of loehr. We parked at 13th E on Folly. Short period, waves were of the variety. Some of them steamed out but we were still catching our fair share - wasn't too packed. Then you see the on-shore winds blow hard closer to dark, feel the cold a lil bit, size picked up. Wished i had a shorty then, got to shoulder hi on most of them. All of us scored something from it all, and glad we did considering the look of waves this morning and the 30 degree drop in temps overnight
My fishing sabbatical is over and it's time for me to get back into surfing. Will have to stuff myself into the 5 mil. I can't find one winter glove either. Bet I find it the minute I get a new pair.
Broke my non-surfing streak thanks to a good friend and his boat. Awesome weather, 75 degrees and sunny with light winds. Rode out to the southern tip of a private island about 5 miles from mi casa. Waist high rights coming in for a couple hours, then made our way back to the boat for some grilled burgers, assorted cured meats and veggies, and copious amounts of libation. Watched the moon rise and the sun set before making our way home for some turkey soup. Not a bad Saturday at all.
I got out yesterday and enjoyed a lengthy surf. It's coming in around chest high and we'll groomed. Seems like when the wave has more power my surfing gets better along with being more focused and making better decisions while I'm out there. There was one guy out on a s.u.p who was just terrible and making everyone miserable. Someone paddled up to him..said something and he left. Not sure what he said but the s.u.p dude left in a hurry. After that all was right with the world around me. I have to say I'm enjoying the warm weather and not wearing rubber!