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Discussion in 'All Discussions' started by Peajay4060, Jan 14, 2015.
LOL, we have a Wonderland here in Rhode Island too....but ours is a strip club.
It was pretty dicey how things would go this morning. We had that weird storm surge thru last night, and winds were up throughout the night as was the rain. Lil soak this morning when i got up, but radar showing storms only a bit inland. Only one by the pier, had a funshape board but i saw some decent stomach hi drops. Got plenty of rides in the short morning session, drops that kinda fizzled out for the most part. A few lines i was able to grab, but i was content pretty quick. Stomach to chest, may be getting better on incoming tide
Couple of days of good waves. Shots from today's Boardriders event.
Hey What's Happening?
After a too long hiatus from the salt to check on what condition my condition was in, PJ went surfing. We can rebuild him. We have the technology. We can make him better than he was. Better, stronger, faster....lighter. We can rekindle his taste of new wave British heavy metal. He'll once again be a relentless nightmare to those surfing around him. Friend an foe alike.
Waves looked like the CJ pics above. I rode a longboard as it was my 1st go but I'm ready to paddle. Turned and burned on one right away and late dropped a nice one. Paddle felt good. Legs were right. Breath was good. My surfing was decent for the 1st go. High wave count. Last year, a wave the 1st go out felt like accomplishment. Amazing that one can't see what is Happening to ones self. Wind switched and I was content to go in. Went to the beach suited up but changed for the ride home and forgot to bring shoes. Didn't matter it was a good ride home with a cup of joe.
I'll be posting more. Fun to read your stories. Thanks for keeping it going friends.
It's ok if you don't like what I'll be posting in the what are you listening thread. But you should listen to it and bang your head.
Great post, man.
Had sumtin to ride over the wknd. Bit soft on saturday, but it was waist to rare shoulder mush. Had the fatty fish, 6'9 loehr, which killed it, took just bout everything that went my way. Couple surfers i recongized at the Washout with, so no hassling. Leftovers SUnday were of the LB variety. THi to occ waist, again plenty to ride and lotta ppl trying to make the most of the lines. Got warm yesterday, almost spring suit weather. Good mix in this week, keeping an eye on evening sessions for the week
I was in Bali, that was great.
overhead and offshore
Went after work yesterday with my buddies to the Washout. Tides would be in the mornings and evenings thereafter, so really best time to get after it for us working folk. Took out Ms Clementine, 6'4 perfection. Might not have been the right board, prolly could've used a few more inches to get on em. Didn't have the best of sessions, waves were a bit wonky - sometimes sideshore and breaking up n down the beach. Saw ppl getting frustrated, so wasn't the only ones. Had a handful of in n outs, but of course the last ride is the best one. Several snaps including one at the end which i wasn't expecting to land, actually only ride i was able to get down the line. Swell pushing thru all week, nothing major but rideable. May have to wait for the wknd tho
Same dude! Same situation.
Wind blown but got some fun ones. Nothing like what they had up North. Water was extra nasty from the rain.
Had myself a beach day yesterday, Umbrella, cooler...you get it. Posted up on 5th E on Folly, took the LB out for a couple sessions. It was gettable but wonky on where it was breaking. When you're putting wax and it's removing all the grime/old wax on your board, guess it's that time. Rocked a rashie n boart shorts, getting that warm. Once the water was getting up, packed it and drove up to N Washout for the hi tide sess. Took out the shorty Sunday board, but conditions were a lil more dicey and same kinda wonkiness. Good only grab a few, but enough at times to keep me out there. Clutch beach day tho, glad we're getting there
My next sesh will be in boardshorts as long as it's sunny.
Been getting a lot of surf. Keep forgetting to post about it.
Surf van needs new tires. F
4/3 , boots and gloves , ocean temps have been flirting in the 50 zone but it still feels like winter
20 million dollar sand job , with in 3 months a 1/3 i
has washed away .This stretch has 20 beachfront mansions that pay 150 gs a yr in property taxes .
I gotta get down there and check that out.
We'll that was a heck of a storm huh? Wind and Swell came in raw and from the NNE/ENE all week and is just now starting to calm down. Surf just never looked great despite the size for any window I had and my hiatus had me just not into getting out in those conditions. I went down and looked at it everyday but just couldn't find the want to paddle out. Fishing sucked too.
The calmer wind yesterday gave me the want and so I headed out after dinner with a truck full of gear fish and surf. One rod, 1 board and whatever happens, happens. The swell was gonna be dying but I didn't take the long board. Just the fish with the idea being if it ain't enough for the fish, then it ain't enough and I'll fish. Rolled up in foggy warm conditions and the swell looked OK sort of (great a long board, and the water looked like coffee. fiqure fishing was out so the decision was made. Suit up and paddled out.
Water was pretty warm. The swell got a little better so it could almost be called waist high. I caught a couple of dumpy ones at one peak and drifted over to another and found a sweet spot. A few decent drops led to cover ups and those led to a small workable wall. This was my 1st time on a short board since getting back into condition. My paddle felt good. My drop ins seemed quicker. My feet seemed right. Nothing was a struggle. Even got into and out of my suit with ease.
So what's happening? Who else has been surfing.
Good bit of patience thru last week waiting for that right time to paddle. Saturday morning was clean but knee to thi hi. Was kinda hungover, not much adrenaline flowing but it was good to be tip toeing around the LB. Did witness a funny exchange between a daughter and her dad who the latter cut her off and she let him have it (she's like 8 yrs old my guess). Then he cut off somebody else, and she continued to berate him. He got pissed, told her to cool it and he took one in and didn't look back. She followed suit, but ahh the tranquility of it all haha. Surprisingly, as predicted by surf reports, swell steadily came in the afternoon. It was a chest to shoulder hi, semi chop but a furniture store closeout special. Had to wait for outlets or you'd be dumped. Had a couple buddies out there, switched from 6'9 loehr to 6'2 Sunday fish. Altogether had a handful of rides but there were some size and good rides to be had if all the momentum went your way. Sunday morning was the day, cleaned up but size stayed up to chest hi and it was just fun all around. Stayed out a couple hours on the 6'2 Sunday, it got crowded and i kept taking lefts to where i was out of the Washout into 12th st shenanigans. One small Asian girl bout took my head off, almost landed on top of me. Not sure what she was thinking, kinda paddled right behind me and didn't say sht but no harm no foul (at least that's how i feel bout surf girls getting close). Pressed on to this morning where i went out on the Loehr and got into something resembling Friday's semi chop. Had 13th all to myself, another guy joined later but continued to see the masses come in on 13th access and walk up to the herd that was a block over. Had about 10 rides, one screaming shoulder hi left that i eventually got rolled over in the end, that were all rideable on the fun shape which had the extra oomph to get on it. Some really good rides tho. It got choppier throughout the hour and called it. Not sure if i'll have the will power to try for tomorrow or the next day, getting down to that 2ft per ~9sec, maybe loggable. Had a good run tho, face is crisp