who here has been surfing this week?

Discussion in 'All Discussions' started by Peajay4060, Jan 14, 2015.

  1. headhigh

    headhigh Well-Known Member

    Jul 17, 2009
    Very similar to yous guyses stories here in SENC.

    Watched waves break all week but the tides and swell direction was turning me off. Finally got some Sat and Sun. Plenty of good waves to go around. Very sunburnt.
     
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  2. Peajay4060

    Peajay4060 Well-Known Member

    Nov 14, 2011
    Early Saturday. Took a shortwalk with a rod before 1st light to see some of the fishing grounds but as it lightened up it showed the surf was turned on and I turned around and switched rod for board. Chest high, clean and slightly mellowed with the fuller moon tide. Nice waves for an easy rider like a short fat fish. Plenty of rides for me as only a couple of dudes on LB's I've never seen before were the only surfers around.
    I'm digging the condition my condition is in. I got radical out there. Couple legit in & out barrels. Went off the top on a few. Some good cutties into little roundhouses. I never gased out. When I'd had enough I got out. Texted the crew to ask where the he'll everyone was but they were all on there way already. Seriously got 2 hrs of dawn patrol solo. That never happens at this place.
    Met up with old heads that cooked up a heck of a Italian breakfast. Fresh mozzarella, Homemade roasted peppers, good eggs and the thickest bacon. Dude even made some kind of breakfast manicotti with fresh whip and berries. It was a heck of a morning and rolled up to the kids soccer games fat. Would you believe after the game I ate strawberry ice cream?
     
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  3. Mammoth

    Mammoth New Member

    3
    May 2, 2022
    I am 22 years old I love sports and cool cars
     
  4. headhigh

    headhigh Well-Known Member

    Jul 17, 2009
    Surfed yesterday. Went to my normal spot and that nor-easter really took a toll on the sandbars. The beach is like 35 feet wide and super steep. Our small swell sandbars are completely gone. Drove around and eventually found a spot with some sand and breaking waves.

    Trigger warning; I mention how much I hate my local government: As an aside, my local beach normally gets a re-nourishment ever 4 years or so. We were scheduled to get the sand this year but the gubermint ran out of money! Somehow, even after raising parking fees from 50 cents an hour to $5 an hour, and tax money coming in from the entire county, these folks managed to spend until the island is in debt and that's before needing to pay for re-nourishment. Keep in mind that the entire "board of alderman" are old-money rich white dudes (who all campaigned on how conservative they are). They eventually got a grant (begging the state for a handout after they screwed up and spent all the money, how conservative of them) to pay for fixing the beach but now we have to wait til next spring to get our sand. Great job guys!

    Fortunately I can hop on my boat and go find a break that isn't completely f***ed by decades of filling in wetlands and inlets to build McMansions and plant invasive plant species.
     
  5. UnfurleD

    UnfurleD Well-Known Member

    Jul 13, 2016
    headhi, that shts fukd up man. IOP created their own "republic" here because of the parking, trying to declare Palm Road as a state road to enforce state made parking spots. My Folly Beach is making sidewalks, building a new pier and repleneshis every other year. Sometimes they do some old, stupid sht but for most part they keep folly funk funky
     
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  6. Peajay4060

    Peajay4060 Well-Known Member

    Nov 14, 2011
    My local is state and fed funded. They've been up to something and I don't know if it's good or bad for the surf. Once They filled a beach and that winter the outer bar amplified any swell into monsters then spread out and moved in killing any surf. Once a storm carved a killer point like setup that didn't get found out right away by the followers. that winter the engineers killed that. when all that sand moved into the inlet it was so thick it had dunes with grass and even shrubs. Great for surf and fish. They just wiped that out this winter and are dredging the inlet. It's good in a way because surfers and fisherman have to be on their toes. Old spots dry up and new ones pop up. We don't have jetties either so on flat days and low tides it pays to do lots sand recon. If you read my last post in the fishing thread. I've been standing at the same spot for too long myself. A neighbor clued me in on something that I may to try that will keep me away the Weekend warrior morning crowd.

    But the spot I've been hitting is awesome right now. After skunking on fishing I paddled the fish out for a few fun nuggets. Best thing was no gloves which was heavenly and a small pod of dolphin swam right by me.

    Have a good weekend Dudes
     
    Last edited: May 20, 2022
  7. Braap

    Braap Well-Known Member

    464
    Dec 1, 2014
    I just want to throw this up that I hate the north even if sometimes the waves are better than the south. I miss hurricane swells where I dont spend $50 for parking and the beach has no cigarette butts on it
     
  8. Peajay4060

    Peajay4060 Well-Known Member

    Nov 14, 2011
    Hey so my fishing post was long. I've been fishing more than surfing.

    However after the skunk on fishing Saturday morning I drowned my frustration in some frothy little waves. Used the fish again. It's becoming my go to. Still in the 5 Mil but think a 3/2 with a hooded vest under would be OK. Found a nice pocket to myself and did some decent surfing. Connecting a few turns and old school floaters can set a dudes mind right. The skunk washed off like when you surf after a rough day of work.

    Hope you guys know what I mean.
     
    antoine likes this.
  9. LBCrew

    LBCrew Well-Known Member

    Aug 12, 2009
    Where are you again, Peajay? Was it Maine?... can't recall.
     
  10. Peajay4060

    Peajay4060 Well-Known Member

    Nov 14, 2011
    that would be cool. Long Island
     
  11. CJsurf

    CJsurf Well-Known Member

    Apr 28, 2014
    Surfed, if you want to call it that, the past couple days in a row. Grovelling in cold water. Yay. Did pick up a board off of Marketplace that I'm messing with. Its the first shortboard I've had in probably 20 years that I didn't make for myself. Yesterday was the first session since I got it where it was kind of shortboardable. Got a few waves on it and it felt real good then took out a 10 foot rental foamie for some long glides on mushburgers.

    Looking forward to getting this into some real waves. Even though the waves were garbage I got enough feedback to know this board will be a blast when its head high.

    278060529_4976078899165610_10715357820719473_n.png
     
  12. Peajay4060

    Peajay4060 Well-Known Member

    Nov 14, 2011
    Good looking board. What's the dims?

    With the heavy fog on Saturday an early morning beach run seemed doable despite the extended weekend kick off. Figuring the crowds would be light I went to my usual space. The beach crowds were light. The fish crowd was ridiculous. The inlet was shoulder to shoulder. Laughed at it and walked away.

    Back at base sitting on a bumper drinking tea and people watching just after dawn. There was definitely a swell and light on shore winds with the incoming high tide started enhance it a bit. Solidly chest high with some foam on top that didn't dump all at once but just feathered the top. It didn't just looked doable. It looked good. Short board good and not a soul on it. Not even any vehicle with boards around. How crazy.

    I put a few hours in out there. Caught a bunch on the fish. That feathering foam was great for 2 and three climbs per wave come down into the next section until the wave reached deep water. Found it too deep to pump into the reform. It was still good and still empty when I bellied in. Had some things to do at home. Lawn care, Prepping for my daughter's birthday BBQ, fixing a leak in the sprinkler line. Hit up an uncrowded hole on the way out. Back home I got as manyvchores done as possible till it rained. Then got enibriated. The thought being I will leave the beach to the weekenders Sunday to avoid the frustration. Yet the sea calls to me in the wee hours and I fear of missing out. So I imbibed made a roaring fire and enjoyed a vision quest in my back yard. It worked. Too drunk to fish.

    Did the same yesterday although didnt turn into the lizard king again. Enjoying the peace of my backyard right now. Hope yous are feeling it too.
     
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  13. Manik

    Manik Well-Known Member

    780
    Dec 25, 2015
    First time in forever I've checked the site, glad you guys are still surfing and posting. I got out yesterday morning for a dawn patrol, first time in years. It was a lot of fun, waist to chest with only a few out, got some really good ones. Drift was tough though, could only relax a minute or so before having to paddle to stay in the spot, or literally go around the point to the south side ( which was working too).
    Work is hectic, life is hectic. Not home much anymore, I feel the tourists enjoy my town more than I do. So it goes....
    I might take my kid night fishing tonight. There is some sick meteor shower supposed to happen.
    Keep posting fellas, with all the craziness it's nice to pop on and see you guys here. And Betty, hope she is still around.
     
    antoine likes this.
  14. Manik

    Manik Well-Known Member

    780
    Dec 25, 2015
    I'd rather be warm than cold anyday out, been rocking that 4/3, it is still holding up!!
     
  15. CJsurf

    CJsurf Well-Known Member

    Apr 28, 2014
    6'8 x 21 x 2.75 I've been wanting to try or make something like this for a while. The shortboards I've been riding for quite a few years have been shorter, wider and thicker. Short, wide, thick has its drawbacks that become more and more noticeable as the waves get faster and steeper. This board outline isn't much different than my go-to shortboard when I was in my 20s.
     
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  16. UnfurleD

    UnfurleD Well-Known Member

    Jul 13, 2016
    I do appreciate sharp eyes. Rode several models, def do well on speed. I had a great day Saturday. Friday evening had potential but i was on benadryl and buddy wasn't particularly optimistic. Heard Saturday from a couple surfers out that they had a couple and got out, guess it did stay a bit disorganized. Saturday was cleaner and chest hi. I got to the Washout around 7am and it was almost packed all the way up. I parked under the North Washout cam, took out the 7'6 WRV. Needed a fun shape to get the best of it, and the board churned out the buttery waves. I'd drift up north for a few blocks, then walked down South Washout until i ended up drifting at same spot. Took out the 6'9 loehr, walked down South and again had another sess. It was good, i was getting hungry. Just a solid day with plenty of rides and of course a couple almost collisions but it didn't take away from how nice it was. No particular rides coming to mind, but it was a good exodus from an otherwise unfriendly poison ivy filled week
     
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  17. CJsurf

    CJsurf Well-Known Member

    Apr 28, 2014
    Not exactly a surf but I took a shortboard and went for a nice paddle. Water got pretty warm. Probably close to 70. My plan this year is to do a lot of paddling even if there aren't waves. Coming off of a few years of injury and hoping to be ready this year when the tropics heat up.

    Capture.JPG
     
    Last edited: Jun 1, 2022
    antoine likes this.
  18. GaffCoLLC

    GaffCoLLC New Member

    4
    May 31, 2022

    I have always wanted one of Marco's boards, but I think my next custom is either going to be another XTR or a Chemistry.

    Definitely some of the best in Dago
     
  19. UnfurleD

    UnfurleD Well-Known Member

    Jul 13, 2016
    Got the first storm of the season yesterday. Sir Alex whipped up earlier than what was expected, coming thru the gulf. Slept off my hungover and bolted out the door around 9am. Grabbed the 6'3 Alchemist and scooped up my buddy who got to try his new board (can't remember exactly what it was tbh, but a fat 5'8 boart that's going to replace his slower Sweet Potato. Jam packed at Washout, got a spot up North which was fine cuz of northernly winds pushing ya down south. The paddle out could have been a bastard if ya didn't wait out the sets, bout shoulder to head hi. I waited. Took a minute to grab one, but then i got a hang of where the line was. Had a sweet left on first sess, big drop and cradle then powered down the 2nd lull to carve up a bit and finish it off on a backwards belly drop. Second session had a nice right that again got me over the 2nd lull and was able to just carve up and down while hanginng for dear life. Just quiikc conditions and decent lines, some in and outs which was expected but quick lil rides. Leash knot broke, so that evnded it a bit early but all in all 2 hours of good times. Buddy and I was content. Maybe leftovers tomorrow if they're around
     
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  20. Peajay4060

    Peajay4060 Well-Known Member

    Nov 14, 2011
    Nice,
    Got some long glassy but tiny waves Saturday and Sunday on the LB. Just a nice beachy weekend with the fam. Waters warmed up quite a bit and it was Caribbean clear. Surfed in a leaky 3/2 and no boots! Lines of dolphin for miles.

    Hoping to get some of that swell that is on the way.