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Discussion in 'All Discussions' started by Peajay4060, Jan 14, 2015.
small scale swell here in Jerz today. tide killed it though
Been surfing so much over the past week I was happy to take a couple days off. Hit three different islands Sun, Mon Tues. Sunday was the best. Alex sending the goods. Chest to head high and maybe bigger at the secret spot. Been riding a 5'5 CI Biscuit inspired fish that I bought a decade ago. I'm still in love with this board.
got some of a little pulse this morning. should say a lot of little pulses from all over. Not the best surf ever got but wasn't bad. Went in with a whole pack of heads at 1st light. It was probably better somewhere else but we had a good spot to ourselves. Still on the fish, it's just doing it for me this spring. A few chest high sets came through that offered a good run. All in all it was more about making sections. Once you got through to thenextt you had to start making the run to the next. Eventually you hit deep water. Which was good cause I forgot my leash. Had to take it of the board cause the dog was yanking my stick all over the yard.
For more on what else I forgot, check the fishing thread.
Looks like it's the LB for tomorrow. But it might be a good LB kinda morning.
Hey I've been getting into the water for the little swells that I would've passed by when the water was colder and the fishing was hotter. Took some fish gear out of the rig and put the LB in. Saturday was the better day with a tad bigger swell but shorter period and a lower incoming tide. Easy breezy fading take offs, a couple of drop knee turns then a racing section. No nose riding. Just middle of the board in cool crouch, back hand in the face to stay in the good spot some tweak the feet to put some gas and race through. even managed a little cover up.
This morning looked better but it didn't have the same juice to it. Two seperate 2 ft swells at 7 and 9 seconds. both at good angles and an off shore breeze. took out the fish 1st cause once in a while a chest high set came through but not many and even then it was weak. Switched to the LB and upped my wave count. Happy I went.
Looks like a good couple of days to get chores done, check fishing gear, wash the rig. Sandy and fishy inside and out. PU
Few fun days if you were on the right board at the right time. Been surfing more and shooting less. This was from my son's free surf before his heat at Boardriders yesterday. About 10 minutes after I took this shot the wind started blowing and the waves went to hell. Wish I had video of this turn. Stills didn't do it justice.
Yeah it's the summer swell season for sure. Halfway decent windswells that have short windows. Got a couple of surfs in this weekend. Sand reconne for good set ups to fish helped find isolated little nooks here and there. Just had to be there and wait until conditions got good enough and that's what they were. Good enough. Good enough to short board anyway. The water water warmed up quite a bit too.
The deep sand marches are killing my arches. My time has come for wearing sneakers on the beach. Like snow shoes.
No way... where is that?
Ahurst looking south into AP.
Man when I used to chase surf more and the wind was west that area was must to check.
The whole scene is just seems like bizarro world for me. Very much like where I grew up surfing but feels like opposite to me. Maybe because it's a right.
Man just looked at the schedule for the stone pony. Good bunch of shows this weekend.
good pulse out this morning. Stomach to chest, occ head hi. Left and rights, with peaks. Had the courtesy Midas car, put the longest board - funshape twin, cuz low tide was couple hrs before. No matter, it was fun swell to snap some turns. Had some decent rides in the first 30. Arms got tired quick, must've been a while
yea, man... seeing a show there tonight and probably another one or two coming up over the next few days.
Whole wknd of surfing. Twas nice. TS Colin just kept going, a lot of us down here was expecting Friday morning and that's it. There were at least stomach hi sets all wknd. I was able to beat the traffic every day. Sunday looked the roughest, huge line at 9am on my way leaving the beach. Never rode a shortboard, but also never rained on me on those mornings either after off and on rain about all wknd. July 4th stayed dry as well, i put down my anchor on the beach. For sure there were some close calls crashing into the fellow surfers, but in the end to get rideable swell all wknd made me feel real good bout not jetting out of town. Tried ostrich ground meat yesterday, hype aint real. Def paid way too much for that sht, not sure if i'm all down for the filet version just yet
I once shot an ostrich in my pajamas.....
What's up my Dudes!
Heck of a weekend of surf. Waist high and clean everyday of it. Hiked the mornings looking and finding empty sandbars. If they weren't working but had potential at a different tide x marked the spot. I walked until I found the goods, surfed until it stopped and went back to the x when the tide filled in. Cell phones were key as my dudes were all doing the same and reporting in. Kept to shortboards for ease of walking. Used the fish the most but Monday switched an old longer fishy quad. Both worked but just thought it would be nice to have the back fins on my back hand. I hardly ever go backside anymore. Cold in the mornings but trunked it the rest of the day.
The familes joined the surf dads mid morning till early afternoon. We had a good spot with a killer beachie in front of us for cool off surfs. My boy was up and riding. Plenty of body surfing went down too. Ever play bottle bash? It's friggin fun. Blows corn hole or can jam away.
left the beach early afternoons for siesta time and tropical drinks. Went to a minor league ballgame. Fire works professional and otherwise. Watermelon. And beer? Target sells Coors Banquets! Americana baby!
Could not even fathom being on the beach today. I'm just scorched. But maybe tomorrow. Should be swell.
You know what they say, if you are lucky enough to live by the beach......own a good vacuum.
Crazy! The Damned, Descendents, Circle Jerks, Interpol, Built to Spill, Bouncing Souls....on and on. That place gets some great acts!
had a hangover lingering yesterday. Stayed home to watch the F1 race and Wimbeldon match, storms were brewing ahead. Thought there might be a chance to ride sumtin on incoming tide, before storms came down and to just get outta the house. Rode the 7'2 wrv, wind was a bit on it, short period waves. Waist to plus sets would come thru, was able to get a good bit of rides and drift up thru the Washout. Had a few nice rides, all were steep drop, couple carves and hit on the lip at the end. All i need is a lil sumtin in the water to make things rideable, felt good to make it happen. No huge swell makers but the early morning hi tides make get me out there tomorrow or Thursday
Finally injury free after about 5 years and been hitting the gym hard for the past 8 months, dropped 20+ pounds and went down to a traditional high performance shape again. In Puerto Rico in February my boards felt too big and had been looking for something to try. Picked up a Sharpeye Disco off of Marketplace about a month ago. First shortboard I've purchased rather than making for myself in almost 20 years. Finally had a couple of sessions on it where I could feel it out. Board is spot on. Can't wait to get it into some real waves. May even make a copy of it. Its about 5 liters less in volume and an inch and a half narrower than the boards I'd been riding since I hurt my shoulder about 5 years ago. Will be nice to be off of wide thick boards. I can tell even in the weak surf this past week that this is a huge improvement and that I'll be able to knife deep takeoffs again which has been the biggest problem with thick wide boards.
Congrats, brother! Shape looks great.
Those Discos are def fun. Eyed a couple but both my good buds have them. Sharpeye doesn't disappoint for the most part
Pretty fun wave Saturday evening at a promising sandbar in the middle of town before dark with the push of the incoming tide with nobody around except a chatty guy from the Czech Republic who swam out ask a million questions about surfing while I waited for waves. Water was like a bathtub. Waves were only thigh to waist high but they had plenty of push to get some speed going.