who here has been surfing this week?

Discussion in 'All Discussions' started by Peajay4060, Jan 14, 2015.

  1. Peajay4060

    Peajay4060 Well-Known Member

    Nov 14, 2011
    Holy Moses,
    I been surfing. At the spot and suited up at 1st light all by myself. Wrong wind, Wrong tide, but legit swell. Chestish high, Mid period, and perfect direction. The air seemed colder than the water so I put on a hooded vest, light boots and a pair of work gloves I got for 5 bucks! Bought them to fish with cause the braided line is killing my hands. They don't get water logged! 5 bucks!

    Had plenty of time and real estate to find some nooks that provided enough time to drop in on angle and get a speed run going that could beat a few sections and get me into some nice pockets. Great set up for a fish. Had a buddy show up for the last half but we stayed a 100 yards away from each other. Then that wrong wind got stronger and the wrong tide got wronger. Total should have been here an hr ago scene.
    Made it home with plenty of time for clean up, breakfast and off to work I go.

    Nice to get out there. Doesn't look like enough factors are going to line up for this run of swell. I'll be there anyway just in case.
     
    headhigh likes this.
  2. UnfurleD

    UnfurleD Well-Known Member

    Jul 13, 2016
    i took an extended lunch break yesterday to get the rest of the remaining Alex swell. From thi to waist plus. Semi textured, took the LB. Had no problems getting by and it gave an inkling that you can prolly pull a midlength into play. But as for the LB, i got deep angled and down low to catch some nice turns into and out of the break. Trying the midlength for last 20 min but it wasn't worthy. Too short to make anything of it, but i saw some ppl with em - didn't do right by me
     
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  3. LBCrew

    LBCrew Well-Known Member

    Aug 12, 2009
    small scale swell here in Jerz today. tide killed it though
     
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  4. headhigh

    headhigh Well-Known Member

    Jul 17, 2009
    Been surfing so much over the past week I was happy to take a couple days off. Hit three different islands Sun, Mon Tues. Sunday was the best. Alex sending the goods. Chest to head high and maybe bigger at the secret spot. Been riding a 5'5 CI Biscuit inspired fish that I bought a decade ago. I'm still in love with this board.
     
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  5. Peajay4060

    Peajay4060 Well-Known Member

    Nov 14, 2011
    got some of a little pulse this morning. should say a lot of little pulses from all over. Not the best surf ever got but wasn't bad. Went in with a whole pack of heads at 1st light. It was probably better somewhere else but we had a good spot to ourselves. Still on the fish, it's just doing it for me this spring. A few chest high sets came through that offered a good run. All in all it was more about making sections. Once you got through to thenextt you had to start making the run to the next. Eventually you hit deep water. Which was good cause I forgot my leash. Had to take it of the board cause the dog was yanking my stick all over the yard.
    For more on what else I forgot, check the fishing thread.
    Looks like it's the LB for tomorrow. But it might be a good LB kinda morning.
     
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  6. Peajay4060

    Peajay4060 Well-Known Member

    Nov 14, 2011
    Hey I've been getting into the water for the little swells that I would've passed by when the water was colder and the fishing was hotter. Took some fish gear out of the rig and put the LB in. Saturday was the better day with a tad bigger swell but shorter period and a lower incoming tide. Easy breezy fading take offs, a couple of drop knee turns then a racing section. No nose riding. Just middle of the board in cool crouch, back hand in the face to stay in the good spot some tweak the feet to put some gas and race through. even managed a little cover up.

    This morning looked better but it didn't have the same juice to it. Two seperate 2 ft swells at 7 and 9 seconds. both at good angles and an off shore breeze. took out the fish 1st cause once in a while a chest high set came through but not many and even then it was weak. Switched to the LB and upped my wave count. Happy I went.

    Looks like a good couple of days to get chores done, check fishing gear, wash the rig. Sandy and fishy inside and out. PU
     
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  7. CJsurf

    CJsurf Well-Known Member

    Apr 28, 2014
    Few fun days if you were on the right board at the right time. Been surfing more and shooting less. This was from my son's free surf before his heat at Boardriders yesterday. About 10 minutes after I took this shot the wind started blowing and the waves went to hell. Wish I had video of this turn. Stills didn't do it justice.

    289463450_10217008306638662_5448186709992304522_n.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jun 27, 2022 at 6:52 PM
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  8. Peajay4060

    Peajay4060 Well-Known Member

    Nov 14, 2011
    Yeah it's the summer swell season for sure. Halfway decent windswells that have short windows. Got a couple of surfs in this weekend. Sand reconne for good set ups to fish helped find isolated little nooks here and there. Just had to be there and wait until conditions got good enough and that's what they were. Good enough. Good enough to short board anyway. The water water warmed up quite a bit too.

    The deep sand marches are killing my arches. My time has come for wearing sneakers on the beach. Like snow shoes.
     
    UnfurleD likes this.
  9. curl

    curl Well-Known Member

    391
    Apr 30, 2013