who here has been surfing this week?

Discussion in 'All Discussions' started by Peajay4060, Jan 14, 2015.

  1. zach619

    zach619 Well-Known Member

    Jan 21, 2009
    That is a score. A disco was my magic stick for about 5 years. I had always gotten shapes from Plus One, then from my buddy Micah (Addict Surf).... Anyway, on a whim, I saw an add on craigslist (15 years ago) and it was a brazillian dude who bought the board brand new for his girlfriend, but it wasn't suitable for her and they were flying home. $250 if I recall. Mint condition....

    This was back before "liters" and volume was discussed on a regular basis, so there are no indication of that. It is a 5'9", which is a couple inches shorter than I would ride in San Diego mostly.... At any rate, from the first time I rode the thing, it was on. First wave, big slash with a little air reverse on the end... I used to mess around with different sized fins on it... It was SOOOOOO damn fun... More versatile than any shortboard I have ever owned. It rips 2 foot OB Pier slop in the summer all the way up to overhead barrels at blacks.....

    Unfortunately, since my move to SC damn near a decade ago, the beautiful thing just sits on brackets in my garage. Last time I rode it in good surf was Sandy, to put it in perspective. I rode it in Irma also, but I was in Myrtle Beach and the board just sucked in the wild ass conditions....

    Anyway, GREAT board.... I had a few beater Sharpe Eyes back in the day that held up pretty well, but the DISCO model was best in show, for sure.

    Now that I got back into my 20's shape again, I give her the eye once in a while and let her know that her day will come.... Probably with the first legit TS swell of the year.

    I remember during Sandy, my first big swell back on the east coast, the offshores were so strong and I had to fight may ass off to paddle in. Fresh of a truck from CA, it was no problem, but even hitting top turns, the things was basically trying to blow out the back....
     
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  2. CJsurf

    CJsurf Well-Known Member

    Apr 28, 2014
    Got in the water this morning and should have turned around and biked home for a full suit. Paddled out anyway and froze my ass off. Water where I was had to be flirting with the 50s. Within 15 minutes I wasn't functioning anymore. Rode one chest high two turn backside wave and went home.
     
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  3. dave

    dave Well-Known Member

    448
    Dec 11, 2008
    Today is the halfway point from Memorial Day to Labor Day.

    The great thing about summer is I'll surf no matter what. I don't care about conditions, if its rideable, I go.

    Paddled out today at the best showing and also most crowded spot I checked, because really, who gives a fuck. There were soft waist to chest sse swell, and if you got into a good one and you had the right board (in my case a custom Thom Eadon, "inspired" by a classic Yater Spoon noserider shape) you were rewarded with long 150-200 yard rides. After a few I moved to the inside to avoid the hordes and traded off knee-thigh peelers with 1-2 others, one after the other. Saw dolphins, and now going to eat fried chicken and down beers on my friends boat while he tries to fish.
     
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  4. LBCrew

    LBCrew Well-Known Member

    Aug 12, 2009
    I got some yesterday, too... middle of the outgoing tide, offshore winds, and like Dave said, clean waist to chest high surf. Thought it would be a lot smaller, so I only had the log... but I had a lot of fun. Only two other local guys out. Which was nice.
     
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  5. curl

    curl Well-Known Member

    422
    Apr 30, 2013
    swell is coming up LB, should be a good push on the tide . The bars have been improving fyi
     
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  6. curl

    curl Well-Known Member

    422
    Apr 30, 2013
  7. Peajay4060

    Peajay4060 Well-Known Member

    Nov 14, 2011
    Hey What's Happening?
    Came back from the mountains and found my island full of heat hate and surrounded by sharks.

    Got into some nice ones yesterday at my usual place. It was forecasted early Chest to head and semi clean so I rode a crowd killer board. 6' packed w a lot of volume. I was the 2nd man in but the crowd was there and watching. Once a few were ridden they swarmed. The tide put a wonk in it that shortened the rides a bit. The swell had juice and the drops were steep. With this board you could get in easy and early. That gave time to set right into the 1st maneuver. The chance at two hits before getting shut down were slim. Make it through to the next section sometimes by racing at take off into what seemed like forever foam climbs. Then into a deep spot that you had to pump through to get to the inside. If you got in there was a short wall to hit maybe twice. Then it was either a gruel of a paddle back out or a slog through a dead zone and walk around. On the walk arounds you had to wait a bit for a lull and then scramble out. Tried both and the walk out was better. You could hydrate and rest the shoulders.

    Started to just put everything into the 1st hit. Some of them were beauties. Some of them, well, you know. If it looked hinky at all after that 1st one, I kicked out. Not my usual thing as I like to go for a long ride but the get back from inside was killing me. I felt old.

    And the water was cold! Everyone was wearing full suit! Even then I felt chilly. I Started feeling a bit more drained after a while and started to cough. Caught one in as I had to get to work. Get a text from my special lady friend that she is ill. Then I realized I was ill too. Got home feeling down and wouldn't you know I gots the rona. Whole family. Feel like poo.

    But hey that was a pretty good surf for July.
     
    Last edited: Jul 23, 2022
  8. CJsurf

    CJsurf Well-Known Member

    Apr 28, 2014
    Put in 2 hours on a longboard this evening. Had the spot to myself and got a ton of thigh high runners. Doing my best to be in paddling shape for hurricane season.
     
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  9. Manik

    Manik Well-Known Member

    817
    Dec 25, 2015
    "Heat hate" love it PJ, hope you and the fam get better soon. Got out yesterday morning for a while. as soon as I got out a nice chest high plus rolled through, I turned and went last second, late takeoff and drop, arms windmilling, no control, about to run over the guy who shaped my board, hard bottom turn and a sigh of relief when I found my line and legs. Lots of fun throughout the morning light crowd to say the least and a dying swell that still sent some nice ones if you waited. Last one was great, lots of turns into the inside then on the nose slaloming through the rocks. Put another ding in the nose, I should have pulled out sooner but it was too fun.
    This heatwave is nuts. I can't even take the beach for too long. Praying for rain for my poor vegetable garden.
     
    Last edited: Jul 24, 2022
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  10. CJsurf

    CJsurf Well-Known Member

    Apr 28, 2014
    Paddled out in a short arm full suit this morning. Was too cold to function. Caught a chest high wave and went in. Biked home and switched to a 3/2 with boots and went back. Was still cold. Could have used my 2mm gloves. Waves were getting worse by the second. WTF!!!! Off to work now.
     
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  11. UnfurleD

    UnfurleD Well-Known Member

    Jul 13, 2016
    feelings mutual, CJ, different scenario: Surfline put our Washout cams on premium last week, but my buddy hasn't updated phone so he can still check. I'm out the door this morning, mid length fish in tow, couple miles down the road when my buddy texts it's flat to shin hi. So i busted the u turn and got some more sleep before heading to work. Was a bit suspicious when surfline had 2-3ft poor to fair. Waited til ocean surf shop report, and they had it at the best it's been this week which was thi to waist. I laughed it off, of course texted my buddy giving him sht about it. But surfing brings me mental relief, and this work started sucking about 10 minutes in. Kinda funny, kinda f'd up
     
  12. Peajay4060

    Peajay4060 Well-Known Member

    Nov 14, 2011
    Back out of isolation today and at the spot I found dolphins. Missed good waves yesterday as the fatigue is real. I too went with reports of just some summer waves but turned out it was better than that. Oh well. Still not 100%. Got out this morning and caught some glassy, soft buttery ones on the long board this morning. The tide was high and the bigger sets were pushing chestish. Easy fading drops, arms dragging to stay in the pocket and then some half assed foot work. I moved my fin from midway to all the way up. Noticed the difference definitely. Got out before I tuckered out. I needed that kind of surf.

    I also felt the cold. Wore the fullsuit. What the heck?
     
    Last edited: Jul 27, 2022
  13. LBCrew

    LBCrew Well-Known Member

    Aug 12, 2009
    Glad your back in action, Peajay... It took me about a month to fully get my wind back.
     
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  14. UnfurleD

    UnfurleD Well-Known Member

    Jul 13, 2016
    got my somewhat redemption swell run this morning. Took the bigger NSP, didn't know what to expect but that board rides everything. Turned out to be some waist plus sets in a build up sideshore variety. Grabbed only a handful.Short sess but it was nice to get some lines to swing the board around. Shortyz were out there without problems. Decent July for swell, nothing major but something to ride for most of the month here in Carolina
     
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  15. CJsurf

    CJsurf Well-Known Member

    Apr 28, 2014
    Fun little waves for the Chip Miller Surf Fest today in Ocean City.

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    Last edited: Aug 9, 2022
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  16. Peajay4060

    Peajay4060 Well-Known Member

    Nov 14, 2011
    Got some waves this weekend. The smallish buttery longboard waves continue.
    Lumps of happiness. A clean shoulder. A slow fade in against the grain, put your hooks into the wall for a sharp turn and glide through and kick out. Some times there was some foam to climb and come down with some speed. Some tip time but not a lot. Mostly just slicing through all arched up in the middle of the board. The sun was warm and the water clear.

    Too clear almost. Lots of bait, lots of birds, there is all too present knowledge of big fish with teeth are around. They are everywhere. Believe the hype cause I've seen them.

    Moved my fin all the way up. It's looser for sure. the pivot is great on the drop in but I'm loosing something on the cut back. It is going 1 inch back until it feels rightly balanced.
     
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  17. dave

    dave Well-Known Member

    448
    Dec 11, 2008
    Clear water is the best thing if you're worried about sharks. The better that they can see what you are - or rather, what you aren't (i.e., tasty food) the less of a risk they'll want to check you out up close.
     
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  18. Peajay4060

    Peajay4060 Well-Known Member

    Nov 14, 2011
    That's a good point. Thanks dude.
     
  19. CJsurf

    CJsurf Well-Known Member

    Apr 28, 2014
    Been goofing around with a 9' foamy in the glassy knee to waist high waves at the end of my street the past few days. Gotta say these things are a freaking blast. Determined to be in good paddling shape when/if some decent hurricane surf ever shows up.
     
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  20. Peajay4060

    Peajay4060 Well-Known Member

    Nov 14, 2011
    no big thing but caught some dribblers this weekend. Good way to cool off and my special lady friend paddled out on the foamy. the life aquatic was dense. many big rays gliding through. Like over a hundred. Dolphin just outside. Wading along the tide pools is like an aquaruim