who here has been surfing this week?

Discussion in 'All Discussions' started by Peajay4060, Jan 14, 2015.

  1. UnfurleD

    UnfurleD Well-Known Member

    Jul 13, 2016
    Earl comin thru. Waist to plus sets this morning. Long lines, long period sets, shorty approved. Brought out the 6'9 loehr. Took to end of north washout. Had a couple nice rides, one backside left and a right to end it. At it again manana
     
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  2. UnfurleD

    UnfurleD Well-Known Member

    Jul 13, 2016
    also, the only thing crossing my mind all morning earl.jpg
     
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  3. Peajay4060

    Peajay4060 Well-Known Member

    Nov 14, 2011
    I got some today too. Got there at dawn, trying for a power hour before some obligations. It was small, sloppy and fat at 1st. As I watched a while, it started to get a little better. Was just getting to the point of good enough when my window shut. A couple dudes caught a few decent ones on middies before I headed out and all my homies were heading in as I left.
    I Got my obligations taken care of fast if not with some attitude. I was a little short with people but I got done quick and sprinted back for a long lunch go out.

    Raced up to the spot and found the lower tide helped the swell heaps. Chest high and clean. I had packed a real shorty but the word was it mushed in spots so took out the fish. There was a big sweep. Timed the paddle out right and swept into the spot as a set hit it. Turned and burned on a good one. Sweet drop in, bottom turned, got fairly vert and and cranked a good turn on the top. Had to do a wiggle after cause the fins skated out a little but got into the next section for the same set up. After, the wave slowed for a good moment and had to use that rounded v on my tail to roll in and out into the inside for another run. This time it was just a race to the floater. I honestly could've gone home after that one alone.

    I didn't though. The ride was long and the sweep was real So I walked around, timed the go out and pretty much did the same over and over for a couple of hrs. Got home, made a straight up Dagwood of a sandwich. A cup of coffee after and finished out the day. Was way more dude after surfing.

    So there are waves to be had hope you get some Earl.

    Earl: Ain't no use running, fool! I know where your momma parks your house!
     
    Last edited: Sep 8, 2022
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  4. CJsurf

    CJsurf Well-Known Member

    Apr 28, 2014
    Solid waves last night but an incredibly annoying crowd of young kids pulling back, sitting in the way on the inside, and blowing waves at the peak. Shit that never would have been tolerated years ago. Reminded me why I took up photography. Grumpy old man out. :mad:
     
  5. Peajay4060

    Peajay4060 Well-Known Member

    Nov 14, 2011
    Oh the grumps. Dudes make it hard not to have em.

    Bagged the early morning yesterday. My shoulders hurt and Figured I'd do another midday go out. Got a text about 7 that it was better than the day before but more crowded. So started working with burning biscuits in my brain. Thinks piled up. Meetings bagged the day before needed to be had. All kinds of IT mishaps. Just BS all day. Ended up getting to the beach around 5. Good if not fat with the end of the incoming. I ended up having a good surf. Crowd was annoying but not aggressive. Used the fish and caught a bunch of chest high waves with plenty of length for a decent ride. The fatness made a really user friendly ride. Had time to do stuff on it. stayed on it for a bit and took a sweet sun set ride to my home town to help out with the old church feast. serving beer for Jesus. Had a eggplant hero.

    Hit it early this morning and the insta-crowd had been informed. The full moon tides are taking a toll on this swell up here. Still kind of fat and the crowd was thick but I nabbed a couple of good ones right away. My grump face was in full effect. Today the swell had more of a pulse. You had to hurry in spots to make some sections. If you did the ride was long and had some great spots to kick up some spray. As the tide filled in the better waves became rare and I was too gassed to be hassling for waves. I left with a low wave count. Quality of quantity aside, I was not satisfied. Did my duties and headed back mid day. Low tide, not many heads in the water and still pretty good. Still a fish wave really. Just went out and upped my wave count off the outer bar. The inner bar was dry. Same type of surfing as before. Long rides but stopped short before the end of the dry bar. surfed straight in there and did the walk around. To miss it put you in a dead zone trench that was hard to paddle out of or get to the beach. Just rinsed and repeated for a little over an hr and headed back to the "office". Back to the feast tonight. I will miss the sunset session which may be good but my arms are shot. Aleve tonight and another go tomorrow. The crowd will be awful. I'm satiated so maybe I'll sit outside the main peak and wait for the bombs that swings wide. Take it shore and have some coffee, BS and try again.

    Earl the storm is been good so far. Kind of a chill. The water is tropic warm. The air is crisp in the morning and doesn't heat up much more mid day. Suited in the morning, shorts after. Would like to see something a little more death defying. Something to take a step up into.

    hope you dudes are getting waves. hope you post up too
    PJ
     
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  6. CJsurf

    CJsurf Well-Known Member

    Apr 28, 2014
    Had my camera out briefly yesterday morning. On-shore and chunky.

    306094881_10217239050127105_4988764299055472194_n.jpg

    306146092_10217239052047153_2011457548763998631_n.jpg
     
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  7. Manik

    Manik Well-Known Member

    817
    Dec 25, 2015
    Surf check in the AM, slightly underwhelming size wise but super clean and the super long period making an easy paddle, but the crowd factor is crazy and depressing. Finding a parking spot to take a look was painful. Also it seems to be hit or miss at a lot of spots, some places not showing much at all.I have my kid, going to head out to take a few pics and vids, hopefully some of the crowd thins during the day and I can make a tactical strike, just not in the mood for all the flotsam out there.
     
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  8. CJsurf

    CJsurf Well-Known Member

    Apr 28, 2014
    My son was supposed to compete in the contest up north this morning but the last minute decision was made to bail on that and surf our home break instead. Best wasted entry fee ever. Three hour morning session was the best session I've had that didn't involve airfare or an 8 hour drive in seven or eight years. Crowd thinned out as the morning went on and it really thinned out after two dickheads got in a 20 minute verbal and physical altercation over who was the bigger dickhead. Those two killed the vibe and a lot of people left or moved down the beach. After that shiotshow took it to the beach myself and a couple others had the best peak to ourselves.
     
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  9. Manik

    Manik Well-Known Member

    817
    Dec 25, 2015
  10. Manik

    Manik Well-Known Member

    817
    Dec 25, 2015
    A couple from early afternoon. I did paddle out at dead low (mid afternoon) and had a really good session with the incoming tide. My timing was perfect, really light crowd when I first paddled out but by the time I got out around 5 30 the crowd was really picking up again. I sat deep and waited for the bigger sets and got a bunch of really good ones, long rides with no hassles or slalom action avoiding everyone sitting inside. Glad I got out, I needed that.
    Where was the competition CJ? I know it was supposed to a lot bigger north of me, I think Massachusetts had some size along the Cape and I'm sure the north and south shores around Boston.
     
  11. CJsurf

    CJsurf Well-Known Member

    Apr 28, 2014
    The Belmar Pro
     
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  12. Manik

    Manik Well-Known Member

    817
    Dec 25, 2015
    Today turned out to be pretty fun, very light crowd and actually had some bigger sets roll through (there was some side shore wind and texture although, not as glassy as yesterday). I was out maybe an hour and a half and got four really good ones, super fun. Also a couple of big closeouts, the leash strap on my ankle came undone on one and had to make the swim in to get my board. And one crazy belly ride (late drop, no chance so I angled hard, didn't go over the falls thankfully). Sitting outside paid off again, not a big wave count but I am happy as hell.
     
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  13. Peajay4060

    Peajay4060 Well-Known Member

    Nov 14, 2011
    I also had a low wave count high quality surf on Saturday. Didn't see a point of getting out early as the crowd would be thick all day. Rolled up at the crack of 8 or so. Had a fairly full tank of good waves so I took my time and watched it for a while. There waist to chest high sets coming through with a high frequency that most were going for and there was no etiquette at all. Then a larger set showed on the outer bar that looked like it would swing wide but didn't. There was a big scramble towards it but everyone who went towards it missed. A few cooler heads stayed where they were and got the goods. I watched the clock until another set rolled through. Finished my coffee grabbed the fish again and stood at the paddle out and waited. Jumped in and swept right into one of the good sets. Two strokes and in. It was a long sweet ride all the way. Headed in for the walk around and just did it again. Two great set waves and I was good. I noticed on the last one I was a bit behind on the fish so after a rest and some bs with the chuckle patch switched to a longer board. I had brought a fish and a good ripper. Thinking now that my quad or even old school bonzer would have been the right board to have. A few head on proper mid lengths were having a good time. The ripper was to much. Just wasn't the right board and a I mis-timed the set. Just ended up floating with the rest of the flotsam and took a lame wave in. Rather then getting the frustration, I called it and chilled a bit before packing it up. My surf cup is full for now. This was a good run of swell.
    Next time I'm packing that bonzer.
     
    Last edited: Sep 12, 2022
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  14. UnfurleD

    UnfurleD Well-Known Member

    Jul 13, 2016
    I tried to get the last of it on Saturday but it was pretty pathetic. Friday the winds blasted all day thru, hoping for some sorta clean up. Early morning hi tide was too thick to get over the lip and even those were near waist hi. I got to the beach after hi tide, hoping things would break easily, maybe hollow out. It just dematerialized tho, breaking soft crumbly thi to waist nonsense. Had a 7'4 WRV, had a handful. Luckily there were some eye candy, notched up my entertainment value
     
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  15. Peajay4060

    Peajay4060 Well-Known Member

    Nov 14, 2011
    Just gotta say when the swell shows, and all yous surf and post, I read your stories and think about what kind of surf we would all have.

    I'd share waves with all you dudes.
     
    Last edited: Sep 12, 2022
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  16. curl

    curl Well-Known Member

    422
    Apr 30, 2013
  17. curl

    curl Well-Known Member

    422
    Apr 30, 2013
  18. curl

    curl Well-Known Member

    422
    Apr 30, 2013
    For a change Local looked the best ! Light crowds , rights , lefts and a pump that has lasted 4 days . Clean offshores and overhead sets to start the week .
     
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  19. CJsurf

    CJsurf Well-Known Member

    Apr 28, 2014
    Dang that looks good. I got good waves out of this swell but it was all lefts at my home breaks. Would have loved some good front side waves.
     
  20. CJsurf

    CJsurf Well-Known Member

    Apr 28, 2014
    Such a good morning. Got in the water around 7:00 at a spot with only two other guys out. It was a very long wait in between sets with a lot of closeouts in between but I got five frontside bombs with four absolute gems that were well overhead racetracks for a good 150 yards. A very nice change from the prior four days of nothing but surfing backside. Exhausted.