who here has been surfing this week?

Discussion in 'All Discussions' started by Peajay4060, Jan 14, 2015.

  1. UnfurleD

    UnfurleD Well-Known Member

    Jul 13, 2016
    I hit up North Washout both Friday evening and Saturday morning. It was stomach to chest hi friday, took 6'9 loehr. I'd drift south, so i popped out of the water 3x to get away from a surf family crowd. Some guys seemed to be getting the goods a lil more north of me, at least it seemed that way with several guys on it. I had a few nice ones, before the fin popped up on the 3rd runaround - was calling it anyways.
    Next morning, took out the 7'2 WRV for the last of Fiona. Still not really semi-chop, but almost as the waves didn't really develop many peaks and lines so it was kinda of scramble, gamble. Still able to catch some waist hi's and get a good few in doing so.
    I think Fiona brought a good shot of juice, feel like it was on me to not get the best of it on Thursday. Glad it hung around a good bit. Don't think this Ian will provide much windows of excitement, but the forecast does give it the impression that it's a slow burn - here's a foot of rain kinda thang
     
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  2. CJsurf

    CJsurf Well-Known Member

    Apr 28, 2014
    Last night we had a crazy front pass through around 5:00. I really thought I was going to see a tornado or water spout form. After the line of clouds passed over and a brief squall the wind went offshore and then back light onshore. Had a fun session from 6:00 until Dark-30 with my son at the end of our street.

    Capture.JPG
     
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  3. Manik

    Manik Well-Known Member

    817
    Dec 25, 2015
    You are the man man Curl, come up anytime. I'm still rocking the wetsuits you sent, I'll be in that 4/3 again soon. They are holding up good brother.
     
  4. Peajay4060

    Peajay4060 Well-Known Member

    Nov 14, 2011
    Hey Dudes,
    Fiona wasn't good to my area. The wind didn't cooperate.

    We got a good swell here now with better wind direction. Head high with some real juice in it. The wind was better direction wise but stiff and accompanied by nonstop rain. Its cold too, I put a hood on. To battle the weather and the rips I rode my wider longer heavier glassed quad. It's getting a bit beat, but it still goes. Got a bunch this morning on the incoming. One was a real screamer. It was after a dud of a ride. It swung wide and came right to me. The drop was steep and sweet. My feet placed just right. It grew as it hit the inside and peeled forever across the bar. Just had the perfect wall for carving. Too hard of a cut back got you caught in the wind and off the wave so I stayed conservative and took it far and into shore. It was a longwalk back to the top.

    Got a little fat and weird as the tide got high but the swell kept growing to make up for it. Nothing better than that long one but good enough keep me in the water.

    Eventually, i stopped getting waves. Had enough raw weather by high tide and didn't want to over do it to be no good tomorrow. Got home to a pot of chicken soup and been riding the couch since feeling good.
     
    Last edited: Oct 1, 2022
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  5. UnfurleD

    UnfurleD Well-Known Member

    Jul 13, 2016
    Didn't think Ian would have produced here. We got consistent rain and winds, nothing unruly but held it down for 12 hours. Tree feel on neighbor's house, but not loud enough for them to even hear. Ian brought the cold tho, def used neoprene. Was chest plus sets Saturday late morning at south washout. Paddled at north washout but it was too sideshore and bout waist hi, wasn't getting much on the shorty. Took a slightly bigger shorty, dealt with the crowd. But i had plenty of nice long rides after winds switched. Glad i made the decision to move, otherwise prolly wouldn't have tried for the following day.
    Thought it'd be a longboard only leftovers, but took the 6'6 board and got some more before crowd squeezed me out of my position. Paddled further south and scored some more. Not crazy cane swell, but we came out of the good end of it all here in Charleston
     
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  6. Manik

    Manik Well-Known Member

    817
    Dec 25, 2015
    Where's Antoine? Hope that dude made it through the hurricane ok.
     
  7. Peajay4060

    Peajay4060 Well-Known Member

    Nov 14, 2011
    I think @antoine posted here last in April. Where are you dude?

    The same page has a pic of @curl with a snapped board. Sick!

    Been getting some. Cold, windy, but big. My usual has been messy. Another place has been pefect pitching barrels. Pros have been out. Just getting gnarley deep spitting pits. But I'm no pro and I'm not 20. Opting for a less gnarly spot. My old home break. Hardly a crowd and waves are still big. They just have a more user friendly take off. Still getting cover but then some wall to work and sometimes another little bit of cover. Something about my home spot. It's like I have muscle memory of it. My surfing fits it just right.
    Been riding the bonzer and it feels good. 3/2, hooded vest and 1 mill boots. Waters not cold. But the air is.
    More to come hopefully.
     
    Last edited: Oct 4, 2022
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  8. CJsurf

    CJsurf Well-Known Member

    Apr 28, 2014
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  9. CJsurf

    CJsurf Well-Known Member

    Apr 28, 2014
    Yesterday the water temp took its first drop of fall. Suddenly I could feel every leak in my wetsuit and the warm water wax on my board was so slick that it made for a terrible session.
     
  10. UnfurleD

    UnfurleD Well-Known Member

    Jul 13, 2016
    Gotta a good surprise this morning. It's been a while i've had one so def caught off guard. Semi chop, bit of an egg scramble out there but i'd see some chest hi waves that would run thru. Figured i'd suite up while i was there in the washout, been a min since i've been in the water. After battling thru the wash on the 6'3 alchemist, come to find out these were shoulder hi bombs. Counted 5 heads spread thru washout, very rare. Not sure what they were seeing on the cams, but clearly many of ppl were mistaken. Had bout ten rides to ride out the beers i had yesterday at buddy's grillout campfire. Last one was close to head hi, able to slide left and try for a bit of a cover up. Lil drift south, so made the walk back to the car and few more heads started showing up. I'm stoked. Board n suite in the car, hoping winds stay under 10mph. They're supposed to turn offshore tomorrow, but i can see that happening this evening.
    Side note, carolina surf film fest this wknd (in my neighborhood). Might sell a board (Barrel) to Carolina Surf Brands i've never had hi stoke for but it was a cool hundo and in great condition. Not planning on putting a price tag over $200 for it. Think it'll get grabbed this wknd if so, then i can push myself to buy something new. Quiver could use a boost
     
  11. curl

    curl Well-Known Member

    422
    Apr 30, 2013
  12. curl

    curl Well-Known Member

    422
    Apr 30, 2013
    Bummed at 7 , elated at 11 .
     
  13. Mitchell

    Mitchell Well-Known Member

    Jan 5, 2009
    A couple friends of mine ventured up into that area for the Hurricane Fiona swell. I think it was a Friday. They said midday, AC was overhead macking, while at the same time OCNJ was like half the size and straight up weak. I believe it. On Delmarva, the same thing can happen, especially on NE swells for some reason. OCMD can be overhead while 15 miles north in Delaware, waist to chest.
     
  14. Mitchell

    Mitchell Well-Known Member

    Jan 5, 2009
    10-14-2022b.jpg 10-14-2022e.jpg 10-14-2022f.jpg 10-14-2022i.jpg 10-14-2022o.jpg Haven't posted in a while. OC, MD was fun this morning. My Delaware (traitor) buddies drove all the way up to Loch Arbor and said it was worth the 3 hour drive.
     
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  15. curl

    curl Well-Known Member

    422
    Apr 30, 2013
    ahh my home Mitchel , mid day it was epic !
     
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  16. curl

    curl Well-Known Member

    422
    Apr 30, 2013
    E345B56B-BA10-4FCE-9D94-C825429DE0E5.jpeg mid day looked like this pic Mitchell , same time last yr , had a solo session for 2 hrs prior to anyone paddling out yesterday .
     
  17. CJsurf

    CJsurf Well-Known Member

    Apr 28, 2014
    I've been surfing more and shooting less. Yesterday fired all day. Surfed until I could no longer paddle then went home and rested for a while and then went back up late in the day with the camera. Was too exhausted to even edit the shots. This sequence is the only thing I've edited. Its just the first of a half a dozen sequences like this or better that I captured. Waves are still really good here this morning but I'm still feeling beat from yesterday. Once the caffeine and ibuprophen take effect I'll go grab a few.

    https://www.instagram.com/p/CjtfpjKjwOr/
     
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  18. Peajay4060

    Peajay4060 Well-Known Member

    Nov 14, 2011
    Got a few waves the last couple of days.
    Got going late yesterday morning but found some chest to head high fast movers. Didn't do so good though. Just wasn't my day and the quick take offs were eating me up. Took a lame one all the way in for the walk around and by the time I got back to the paddle out it had doubled in sized and got real nasty. The rip was putting dudes danger close to the rocks. I some how timed it right and got out without a dive but my heart was pounding. Paddled against the grain long enough to snag a set wave in the primo take off zone. A bomb too. I got in and up early, stuck my hand in the face and some how got through big wrinkles in the face and into a warping barrel for a second. But I wasted no time and got right out and just flew down the line. Cut back and set up for another run at it. Again I chickened out and raced out fast. Rode to the beach and called it a day.

    Bagged the go to today to avoid crowds. Knew I would just be watching dudes killing it from the shoulder. Went to what I thought would be a more user friendly take off but it wasn't. I managed to find a few corners and got some shade. Had to drop into 5 to make 1. Surfed till the tide killed it. Wasn't my best surf. Sucks when you come off a few good days and you're feeling you could do no wrong then el stinko for two days straight.

    I could use an easy LB day.
     
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  19. Manik

    Manik Well-Known Member

    817
    Dec 25, 2015
  20. Manik

    Manik Well-Known Member

    817
    Dec 25, 2015
    Friday got really good, I was beat from work and couldn't get myself to paddle out. Thankfully there were Saturday leftovers. I got some good ones but the standout wave was a late drop where i landed on top of our local shaper. The guy who shaped the board I was on. I felt like the biggest kook in the world. Thankfully he didn't send me out of the water, lol. Otherwise a long fun session, there was still size on set waves. My shoulders are aching. Thank god for Advil. And pot.
     
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