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Discussion in 'All Discussions' started by Peajay4060, Jan 14, 2015.
Damn, brother... that sucks. You Irish? Seems to be a lot of Irish people get that.
Hey dudes what's happening?
dropped off from surfing at the end of last year to drop into the gym to see what condition my condition was in.
Started paddling out in March. Paddling feels good. No problem getting through sets to get outside andI'm getting some waves. My surfing got ugly but that's OK I'm having fun.
let's get some waves!
If it was only that easy! LOL!
Glad you're back in the water, Peajay... Were you out for medical reasons, or just taking a break?
I got a bum shoulder. In the fall I made a decision to concentrate on fishing and surf less. I got the fish bug and it would let the shoulder rest more between sessions. But casting a surf rod in a rough sea took it's toll also. Then the winter set on, daylight got scarce, my family actually likes having me around, work was busy and I put on a few pounds. So I made another life decision that I would leave it till March, watch my diet and exercise. Also, as I get older, when I'm cold looking at the Ocean, I'm finding it hard to get motivated to suit up to go into the ocean.
Got my self reasonably fit. Doing 6k everyday in 42 minutes and the average BPM isn't high at all. Plus weight training.
Shoulder feels good. Can't hold on to my nose rider when a wave wants to wrench it away so I finally got a leash. After a very humbling fishing weekend for opening day (see fish thread) I had a great surf. 3ft glassy and classy on the longboard. The old fade right go left, a little work from the tail, a little racing through at the mid section, and some tip time. One wave got really glassy and I got low in the middle of the board, dragged my hands in the wave face and looked behind me to see the eye of the waves just churning a few feet from my face. A sick view.
I'll be checking in more now that I'm at the beach more. Hope you dudes get some too. if you do post up!
Sunday was a stellar day of surf in my hood. Waves lasted and the wind cooperated all day. Surfed for several hours without the gloves and hood. Took the camera out late in the day and got about 20 good shots.
Can't belive that little groundswell hung in there all week! Monday should be fire.
Had a little swell hit the island this morning. Thigh high, clean little long board waves.
Easy peasy, got my fill in an hr. The sun was shining and the wind was calm so no gloves or hood felt good. Been fishing so much it was a nice change of pace.
Great day of surf yesterday. Insane crowds. Managed to find a peak with only four guys for my second session. After seeing the pictures from North Jersey I probably should have drove up there instead of staying home. Probably the last or next to last day of surf before the long summer flatness sets in.
got myself a couple o surfs the last few days. Waist to chest both times and clean. 1st was the same day @LBCrew pulled that monster on the boat. I blanked that morning on the new moon tide the building swell looked clean and easy. Rode a short board that isn't great that goes into the rig anytime I'm on the beach for permit requirements. It's a board i had made but just never clicked with. Got a few rides and it's been a while so it felt very good. Missed the Sunday swell altogether. just couldn't get there.
But Monday Monday. So good to me. Clean and easy with the same size and a good angle for Longboarding. The tide was rushing in bringing some fatness that just called for it to me. Got a couple of good rides. Then saw dolphin and osprey getting theirs so went in and did some fishing before heading home. Taking a break now enjoying a leftover bluefish cake and a cup a joe.
Hoping the swell sticks around a couple days. I'd like to try that short board again and see if older me will click with it after a couple of decent ones.
Got a session in this morning. Waist to chest again almost identical to Monday. So long board again. I can feel the rust coming off more and more each wave. My feet were just right when I got up today which led to better control and longer rides. Got some time up on the nose on the steep sections, and got back to do some descent turns to get back in the pocket and try for the next section. Made for a couple of long rides. The water is warming up. The sun was out. Did I feel like I was missing fish. Oh yeah.
Hope the swell continues,
Good run of swell continued through the weekend. Nothing spectacular waves wise but it was waist high and clean and fairly uncrowded. I went when I could and longboarded mostly. Twice watched what was pretty meh turn into pretty fun. I was in a wetsuit. yet a caught no waves. I had surfboards ready. I was having too much fun messing around with my littlest one to care. She has had a little fear of the surf in the past but went for it this weekend. Just in a shorty too. On Monday she joined me on dawn patrol. Didn't even need a wake up shake! We blanked on the fish then surfed until the wind went from 0 to 30MPH side shore in a snap. Both of us were zonked before nightfall. The left over american fare of leftover chicken bucket, hot dogs, ice cream and more high-life helped some. I even slept in today. Enjoyed the long weekend and thank those who sacrificed so I could.
We had waves over the weekend but a ton of current made it more work that it was worth. 3/2 with no boots though and my son trunked it for a half hour on Sunday.
Got a good surf in this morning. The main swell was 3ft @ 7 with a secondary swell less than a foot but @ 20 seconds! Both swell angles were just about the same and perfect for this piece of my island. The wind was very light off shore and the tide was just right. Made for chest high glassy goodness. The crowd was on it too. Picked the long board and sat off to the side and further out. Waited for the bigger sets that swung wide. Got a bunch of long rides without any hassle. Was fading into the wave on the drop then a quick turn and burn through the glass. not much turning after that. Just raced through sections going from the tail to the nose and back.
Some of the short boarders were getting real primo rides but most were getting caught behind. I would have been one of them. Felt like my get up and go just wasn't up for it today.