Hey dudes what's happening? dropped off from surfing at the end of last year to drop into the gym to see what condition my condition was in. Started paddling out in March. Paddling feels good. No problem getting through sets to get outside andI'm getting some waves. My surfing got ugly but that's OK I'm having fun. let's get some waves!
If it was only that easy! LOL! Glad you're back in the water, Peajay... Were you out for medical reasons, or just taking a break?
Thanks LB! I got a bum shoulder. In the fall I made a decision to concentrate on fishing and surf less. I got the fish bug and it would let the shoulder rest more between sessions. But casting a surf rod in a rough sea took it's toll also. Then the winter set on, daylight got scarce, my family actually likes having me around, work was busy and I put on a few pounds. So I made another life decision that I would leave it till March, watch my diet and exercise. Also, as I get older, when I'm cold looking at the Ocean, I'm finding it hard to get motivated to suit up to go into the ocean. Got my self reasonably fit. Doing 6k everyday in 42 minutes and the average BPM isn't high at all. Plus weight training. Shoulder feels good. Can't hold on to my nose rider when a wave wants to wrench it away so I finally got a leash. After a very humbling fishing weekend for opening day (see fish thread) I had a great surf. 3ft glassy and classy on the longboard. The old fade right go left, a little work from the tail, a little racing through at the mid section, and some tip time. One wave got really glassy and I got low in the middle of the board, dragged my hands in the wave face and looked behind me to see the eye of the waves just churning a few feet from my face. A sick view. I'll be checking in more now that I'm at the beach more. Hope you dudes get some too. if you do post up!
Sunday was a stellar day of surf in my hood. Waves lasted and the wind cooperated all day. Surfed for several hours without the gloves and hood. Took the camera out late in the day and got about 20 good shots.
Had a little swell hit the island this morning. Thigh high, clean little long board waves. Easy peasy, got my fill in an hr. The sun was shining and the wind was calm so no gloves or hood felt good. Been fishing so much it was a nice change of pace.
Great day of surf yesterday. Insane crowds. Managed to find a peak with only four guys for my second session. After seeing the pictures from North Jersey I probably should have drove up there instead of staying home. Probably the last or next to last day of surf before the long summer flatness sets in.
Hey now got myself a couple o surfs the last few days. Waist to chest both times and clean. 1st was the same day @LBCrew pulled that monster on the boat. I blanked that morning on the new moon tide the building swell looked clean and easy. Rode a short board that isn't great that goes into the rig anytime I'm on the beach for permit requirements. It's a board i had made but just never clicked with. Got a few rides and it's been a while so it felt very good. Missed the Sunday swell altogether. just couldn't get there. But Monday Monday. So good to me. Clean and easy with the same size and a good angle for Longboarding. The tide was rushing in bringing some fatness that just called for it to me. Got a couple of good rides. Then saw dolphin and osprey getting theirs so went in and did some fishing before heading home. Taking a break now enjoying a leftover bluefish cake and a cup a joe. Hoping the swell sticks around a couple days. I'd like to try that short board again and see if older me will click with it after a couple of decent ones.
Got a session in this morning. Waist to chest again almost identical to Monday. So long board again. I can feel the rust coming off more and more each wave. My feet were just right when I got up today which led to better control and longer rides. Got some time up on the nose on the steep sections, and got back to do some descent turns to get back in the pocket and try for the next section. Made for a couple of long rides. The water is warming up. The sun was out. Did I feel like I was missing fish. Oh yeah. Hope the swell continues,
