Getting chilly. Might have been my last rubber-free session yesterday. The sun and the sand were the only warm things. Air was high 60's with strengthening offshores. Water was probably the same temperature. Didn't feel too bad after a few minutes out, but I noticed my hands wouldn't warm back up for the rest of the afternoon, so I probably lowered my core temperature pretty good during the session. Moderate offshores at my lunch spot with a nice combo NW/SW swell running. Still walled, and the refraction was barely there today, but I managed to find a couple of barrels and a few workable corners. Nobody out, as always. Maybe Chest-hi sets. Nothing real exciting. With the strong winds and low air temperatures over the last few days, say bye-bye to the bizarrely warm water we've had. Might try skinning it for the rest of the week, but my 3/2 is standing by for winter... Lucky I've got a hot shower just steps away from the break!
Today I surfed for the 5th straight day in a row. Only other time I have surfed this many days in a row I believe is on vacation to Puerto Rico a few times. Usually I get 1-3 days per week in the water, so it's a treat getting in the water each morning before work. As far as waves go It's been fun at the right spot at the right tide with the right board and good attitude. I was getting some chest / shoulder high waves on day 1 & 2 and the swell slowly faded down to knee - waist with the inconsistent stomach / chest set this morning, more knee / waist than anything but if you were patient you could get some larger ones. More swell on the way, so long as the wind cooperates to a reasonable degree. Many mornings say onshore and choppy on forecast / report but the report from the water, at least where i've been, has been a tad better. Not going to complain there. It's funny if you drive down the road 5 seconds to another spot it'll be completely garbage, or if you aren't familiar with the tides for a spot and show up at the wrong time it could be flat or too deep. Gotta love getting waves with nobody else in the water too, or maybe a couple people within eye sight but different peak. Ahhh
Busy day today. 3 other guys out, knew them all. Hard offshores and a chunky NW windswell with plenty of corners. Very pretty blue water groomed by offshores. Fun to know that everywhere else on the entire coast was blown out. Too cold with the wind and upwelling, so I went with the 3/2. Glad I did. Got a sick little DK right-hand barrel at one point. Preview of winter. Waist-to-Chest+. More fun stuff to come!
fun waist high waves this afternoon on Delmarva...surfed a while and then swam out with a waterproof point and shoot... No idea who this guy is. the sky was amazing as a little front rolled in.
got to surf first beach in ri today after checking out saliva v*gina and URHIGH. pretty mellow waist to chest high crumbly waves. i wish i brought my fish or a log rather than my shortboard because i was pumping my arse off on almost every wave, still got a couple carves in though oh yeah, salve is 65% chicks and 35% guys. WHAAAAT!!!
Got some fun little liners this afternoon. It was small, waist maybe chest- but peeling and funner then it looked. Rode the 10'4 Phillips - nose ride city! Only one other dude out- he was from Rutherford... I thought since he was from north jersey that he would throw my stuff, that was on the beach, into the water. But he was a cool guy- fun time and good vibe! #bradpitted
should of stuck to westerly man. A certain sandy beach break that will not be named was pumping (relatively speaking considering its the eastcoast and rhode island) got there at first light and was greeted with some chest high barrels, pushing head high on the sets. Only guy out for a bit, until the kook patrol showed up and they left me alone on my right sand spit while they took the close out sections off to the left. Next hit up the south side of point judith, which was trying to mimick a left point break with noone out, with some choppy head high crumblers. Finished the day off at the beachie again and got one memorable shack that i got completely covered on and backdoored at the last second. waves were small, but my wave count was high and I got some conditions worthy of christening my new 6-0 flyer merrick so im stoaked. I know where im going wednesday....
I surfed jesterday and today-both days small, but glassy with light offshores. Only one person out....me. Nirvana
not a bad gig getting to surf new england in the fall AND get to stand in for a rock group as a career.
Saturday morn Delmarva, HH sets with user-friendly ramps & shoulders. So many great waves. That SE well & light W wind, which went glassy at times, was a fantastic combo platter. Size faded as the day progressed. Spent 3 hrs surfing in town. Then to the wild side & chilled out with food, bevvies & rest. Watched one guy (dark red Jeep, Del plates, good surfing by you bucko) riding dozens of peeling, chest high rights on his longboard. He literally had 10 miles of breaks all to himself - - not another soul in the water. This time of year is great. Cool pics Mitchell.
I went today. I had fun. I was off from both jobs so I could take my time. Sorry you were stuck at work Yank.