who here has been surfing this week?

so stoked on ocmd lately - no wind - swells - good sandbars - nice nonwork timing for it all

 

I can't tell you how many people out west I've told that OCMD is holding...they just look at me like I just arrived from Nibiru. Whatever, I just laugh. Mitchell's pix make me jones for that joint.

 

u get some great shots man.it was a little fun this am,a lot of closeouts and inconsistent but still something,looks better there.checked the cams,down south looked better down there in ocean,should get some more Wednesday,hoping I can go straight from work in ocean

 

Would love those kinda waves right now to try out this fish I borrowed.

 

Its funny! I've paddled out at Windansea on what seemed to me like a fun dawn patrol. 4-5 foot, glassy, a-framing like it does. Maybe 15 heads out who all knew each other. People in the lineup I talked to couldn't believe Delaware gets waves, and called me into some good ones because...I think they felt sorry for anyone from such a wave starved place...which compared to north county it is! Works for me!

Thanks!

 

Perspectives can be funny. From my Pov this swell has been tricky. All I've found were close outs. Yeah, there were some fun shoulders mixed in but mostly close outs. Ratio of closeouts to decent waves was way too high for my liking. East swells can be funny in these parts. No luck figuring out the dynamics for me but seems like some of you were fortunate enough to find the right spot at the right time. Glad someone caught good surf - I certainly did not. All I have is sun burn and sore shoulders. Weather was amazing!

 

Got some waves this morning in dirty jersey

It was pretty good at the spot where i surfed. Peeling rights.

I didn't think it would have much size this morning- (I guess I didn't check the swellinfo prediction site- you know the one that Micah sold) so I thought it was waist hi- and going into hi tide- I brought my 9'6 longboard! I was surprised to see it had size when I got to the beach... Maybe Should have brought a different board and didnt have much time so o didn't want to drive a few blocks home. The outside sets where peeling nice- ended up snaging a nice one and got a little barrel and a couple of fun nose rides. A few guys out- all friendly faces. Trading waves. Great time!

 

long island was fun today but i tweaked my knee after 4 hours and had to cut my session short. oh well, wont be doing much walking the next few days i guess but i got plenty of weedbeers to heal my pain.

Also, i figured out why they call it long island,

every guy there sounds like he works for some low income landscaping swindle.

Lawn-guy-land

 

Ha good one!

 

How far down the beach is that from Cop Land?

Get better soon...use plenty of the mystical green meds

 

That place where Mitchell shoots his pics was a crapload bigger this morning than yesterday, well overhead on some of the growlers - - and closing with booming emphasis.

Lotta E in that swell, never really got to more than 101 degrees or so, favorable winds though. Saw most guys paddle, paddle, paddle, take a peek & then pull back over & over & over again. Not too many guys out this morning, actually.

The one peak that was working, whose location shall not be spoken here, had decent shoulders for sliding but still....mucho closeouts.

I guess it really was better yesterday, ergo the pics.

This morning: bailed for the-place-that-shall-not-be-named - - the trough was like a Vulcan tractor beam meaning only the SUPs & longboards punched through - - but the paddle out became easier around mid-tide as the trough shortened up. Some fun lefts if willing to take the occasional visit to heavy closeout ciudad.

 

central Florida has been fun with few out. Some descent rides from the outside to the shore.

Tired and repeating top of the morn.

Been surfing a lot.

 

Way to go Killa good stuff

 

got on it this morning at higgins and made it home in time to meet the washing machine repair guy without a second to spare. started to lose its shape at super high tide. i was in "one more" mode for an hour. i threw in the towel and got out. asked some chica on the beach what time it was, and she gave me the time, and i paused... i could go back out for one more and still make it home in time for the washing machine repair guy, if i sprint back to the car and get my suite off fast and speed the whole way home." done. 3 minutes of waiting and i got myself covered up. moral of the story: always go for one more.

a few days ago at higgins i stayed north of the rocks as the tide went out and surfed that sand bar, which sucks out and breaks below sea level, occasinally producing these super wide barrels on waist high waves. if you can make the drop you're getting pitted. had a bit of a barrelfest until, after a few free chiropractic exams compliments of the atlantic, my old manness started acting up and i lost my critical pop to make those steep drops. if i had brought a little more rocker with me it might have been a different story but i didnt have it with me. still i went over them falls every time. i hobbled out of the water pitted, content, and near crippled.

higgins is funny. most people surf south of the rocks for the most part, and its long boarder central. and i notice a lot of people hang out way to far outside, waiting for the exception to the rule set to role up. personally, ill take a set on the head if it means my wave count will be gargantuous. additionally, ill take the steeper slightly smaller stuff north of the rocks. wave count is greater than size queen. when your 5'6" you can get covered up on anything.

been on it a lot lately. since moving to the coast I'm getting wet all the time. had a career session at Old Orchard pier two weeks back in what could be described as nothing short of perfect conditions. its been the best season I've had in a long time.

 

I don't talk to myself on here.

I do in real life, all the time.

I go to the liquor store and down two or three shots and then puff and then walk around talking to myself.

Dudes, this past swell was right. Lit up a special spot. Chest-to-head(I'm sure many on here would call it overhead). Yeah pretty sure aboot that. Maybe it was. I just ride 'em I don't measure them.

The Delaware guys would have a heart attack during the 80-100 yard paddle-outs. But, yeah, long lefts and shorter quicker rights. I love rivers, man. Hell, I didn't even hear any sirens of gunshots due south yesterday, either. As Ice Cube said, "It was a good day"

I feel all surfy and shoot.

 

Dude, you shred.

How old are you?

Yeah, a different board would have made the difference. How come, all of a sudden, you couldn't make the drop after the barrel fest?

Below sea level? Sounds heavy, bru.

What, bra, you been slammed on the sand one too many times?

Did the chick mate with you...the one who gave you the time?

As I was walking down the street one day. A man came up to me and asked me what the time was that was
on my watch, yeah. And I said, Does anybody really know what time it is? I don't. Does anybody really care?

 

If so, I can't imagine why
We've all got time enough to cry

 

Yeah !

Barry, you finish it off....

Chicago kicks-arse.

 

Nah, not Barry...that wouldn't be fair. One of his previous jobs was playing one of the horns in Chicago. Probably after the whole Trooper thing.

 

Yea, Rie... I knew you'd be out... somewhere. It was good here for three days straight. Better than shots and stuff, huh? I did not surf. Had my parents up from CM for the holiday weekend... still managed to squeeze in some fall fun. Put a bunch of pheasant in the freezer... and my daughter caught her first keeper bass...