Yeah, the river north of AC was semi-doing it. Oh, y'all who think I speak too much...You'll never get it, unless you are always there. Plus, the place sketches many out. It is like The Potato Patch of Southern New Jersey, sort of. It's completely visible from the road. Sorry you didn't get out, Crew. What, your parents won't let you surf in the "winter?" Ha ha. Ah y'all up in North J always have the goods. I won one for once.
Hahaha! Yea... long story. My dad's cool with it. My dad's cool with just about anything. My mom always HATED that I surfed. It would always be the first thing to go when I got punished for doing something I shouldn't have done. I made the mistake of going surfing one Sunday morning when they came up for a visit. They went to church... I went for a surf. When I came back, they were gone. I called her while they were still on the road... she was in tears. "Son... If you don't want to visit with us, just tell us and we won't come up." And that was the end of that...
More people out on the north shore of MA than I've seen for 2-3' waves in a long time. Decided to paddle out anyways and the crowd thinned out after an hour so everything worked out. I think more people go out in marginal conditions this time of year because non-winter surfers want to get as many waves in as possible before the deep freeze hits.
Nah. Hardly. I have my moments. There are a very specific and narrow set of conditions when I come alive, but I'm a one trick pony for the most part. 35, with jacked up knees, history of back and hip issues, stiff hammys, a lousy shoulder, and sore tendons from moving furniture the previous day before... the mountains aint been kind to me... I was riding an LSD Tex, which has zero rocker. As the tide went oute it got steeper and steeper, and I got stiffer and stiffer! I had been in the water too long and was probably in need of a snack, as I was making ****tay decisions and talking to myself. Twas, my breigh. Reminiscent of Sheldonne's go-to in stature, which I'm assuming you've visited. On this particular day yes. In general, no. Nah. Im off the market. Synched up with that chica from this past summer. Good response.
Today was fun-isn. Higgins again. Dudes on longboards going frontside regardless of which direction the wave broke. Nothing like looking out of a womb hole and seeing a logger coming at you. SUPers were backpaddle swarming. Ug. Spent 4 hours in the water, which was not easy.
It's been a chop fest down here for over a week. Buoys 11 ft @ 12 sec now 9 ft @ 8 seconds. Was 20 mph with 30 mph gusts ENE, now 15 mph with 20 mph gusts out of the east. Lovely weather. Warm and sunny with a few squalls. Only a couple places worth paddling out. One very crowded chest to head high peaks, easy paddle. One not crowded, overhead chunks, but remote and lots of duckdiving. Most rides ended badly. Some were very fun. Some were painful. Cool vibe lots of kids and old locals getting good rides. I got smirked at by an 11 year old girl on my first trip over the falls. One session I only made half of my attempts for the first hour until I got into a zone. Yesterday I just did yoga, drink whiskey and watch football so I could rest up and paddle out again today. I'm happy to go to work tomorrow. Life is good.
Thats awesome! Wait, that was the end of what? Did you kill your parents? Or did that have the decency to check the buoys before coming to visit.
Friday was fun, Saturday was steep, I brought the wrong board for sure, needed more rocker. I wasn't seeing stand up barrels at my spot though (Deal). There were barrels to be had, I got punished pretty good a few times trying to make it out.
Scored some nice waist to chest on the south shore of MA Saturday. Couldn't believe the crowd at sunrise though. 15 doods in the water by 7 am. The wind was scheduled to come side shore by 9 am and it arrived right on schedule. No sympathy for the high school bruhs showing up at 9:45. Clowns!
I was out Saturday. I selected the correct board, or so I fought. With a slight tide increase the waves grew an extra 7 inches on average during a two hour period. I knew I was screwed. My rails could not handle the extra seven inches of wave size, on average. NOT AT THAT PERIOD !!! So, I was screwed. I didn't bring my other stick that could have handled the increase of size at that period. You guys ever think you make this sh!t more complex than it actually is? There's a huge difference from riding 4 foot Belmar and taking on Patrick's Point at 15 foot. There isn't much difference between four foot Belmar and 6 foot Sea Girt. Y'all, it's not the boards.
