who here has been surfing this week?

patricks point: watch out for that one rock. Yea that one. the only one.

 

Nah it's cool, my board is all tuned-in. It knows to avoid rocks in waves up to 15 foot.

I got a custom stick, that's high performance.

 

dude thats sweet that your shaper input a RAD (rock avoidance device) in your stick. I personally dont ever surf without one. You should try to get those FCS's that make you better at airs too, then you can just ollie them.

 

Woah, I'm just getting to know my rocker and rail dimensions...

I haven't even begun to think aboot fins.

Oh so that's why I'm not busting correctly. And here, I fought it was me.

 

Head high sets in la Jolla this am. The next 7 days look solid too. Much needed!!!!

 

Toe high here in NH. Exciting, huh?

 

im december is flat until my knee heals ill be stoaked.

 

a little bit from my travels:

 

Beautiful weekend. mid 70's air, water63ish, lots of sunshine and fun stomach to chest high clean waves. Almost didn't paddle out at the best spot because of the crowd. Watched for a few and saw the same 5 or so peeps catching all the waves. Lots of bumps sporting wetsuites in the water this fall. Arms are sore but the stoke is strong.

 

I want some of pix 1

 

Hey Towlie is that indicators Puerto Rican

Man I'm not even thinking aboot tropical waves yet..I ain't broke out the 5 mill suits gloves boots lid

Oh man and I surfed a spot by myself on Saturday on that long barrier island..it's been a while since I felt that feeling of seclusion

But I wasn't alone as I got bumped aboot 45 minutes after being in the water..I'm not real anymore..I was afeared and rode the next one in

Maybe it was a fish

Maybe it was the Flakka

 

I snorted a line of fokka with my dik hasn't gone down in 20days.

 

towlie where is that? looks fun

 

Dogmans??

 

Ah Barry you don't know sheit

Dogmans doesn't have those rock slabs at the waters edge

BET!

 

Popoyo, Nica. Some pics are from river mouth tho. I've got a few from mag rock down the beach too, but gotta find good ones. That whole area is beautiful.

 

Mag rock is super sucky on a massive swell suck you around those rocks and ur done.

 

Got out late this afternoon til dusk with my oldest son (22). It was a spur of the moment thing. Glad we went. Waist-plus and clean. Very little breeze.
At one point, it felt like something was swimming around right under my board. Started to get that "sharky feeling". A few minutes later my son paddled up to me startled. Something gray and large brushed by his board and hand while he was paddling. I thought he said that it felt like sandpaper. We got out of the water.

There was one other guy in the water and it was getting dark so I went back out and told him what my son had encountered. We figured that if the thing didn't bite my boy or I, there was nothing really to worry about.
Got out again and asked my son if the thing really felt like sandpaper. He said no, that it felt smooth, UNLIKE sandpaper.
We figured it was probably a dolphin, not a shark that swim around under me and brushed against him; although the dolphins I've encountered veer away from where I'm at after swimming over to check me out.
Well, if nothing else, we got a story out of our adventure today.

 

dude u guys were " cam of the day" of course it was good.

 

Love that line.