who here has been surfing this week?

boys the world is empty cold dark and meaningless without surfing. Its been since the 28th and my knee pretty much feels fine but the doc wants me to wait till january. Playing metal getting high and doing calisthenics ain't cutting it anymore, the lack of salt is starting to get to me.

 

Oh boy. I understand. But hey man, your shelf life for surfing is limited. Everyone's is. I regret focusing too much of my young life's time and efforts to surfing. Don't get me wrong, surfing and the ocean in-general are the best things that ever happened to me. But, in some ways, it's the worst thing that ever happened to me...Ya dig? I wake up every day in pain from all of the hours beating the crap outta my body surfing and trying to keep fit enough to do it. Plus, I could have gotten a friggen PhD in whatever or went to med school with all the time I spent surfing, and tracking swells, etc. It's a blessing and a curse. Whatever. Better than heroin, I guess.

 

I agree with you first line above. But not with the second--it can be worse than heroin, as well.
Merry Xmas.

 

If u logged in that much time doing heroine youd be dead. Nows the time to starting indulging in the heroine to keep the pain at bay.

 

Found some surprisingly clean shorebreak nugs saturday. Had it all to ourselves. Well, us and the seals.

 

Ha, I say the same thing about sex.

 

Oh, and let yourself heal-up, you ding-dong. I am the mutha fuqin Ghost of Surfing Future letting you know that you will wind-up all jacked-up if you don't heal-up proper.

 

Then the question is asked would you rather get your **** wet or surf a epic 5-7Ft day with 10sec barrels and the longest lines you have ever seen?

 

Whoah, whoah, whoa, whoaaaaahhhhhh. This question is missing a lot with the sexy time piece. It would have to be some crazy sh*t...Some serious porneau stuff going down. You know, like skeet skeet skeet all over the place, doing ill stuff, etc. That's the only kind of sexin' that could compete with an epic session as you describe. Otherwise, my diq can always get wet, I'll take the toobs.

 

porneau

 

Seals?? Then you also surfed with Great Whites........
Apparently, they found you....well....repulsive, inedible.

 

o barry you got no seals in da shire?

Maybe the sharks thought i was hot, and watch me like a porneau

 

il chose the 5-7footers anyday.girls aint going anywhere,but the swell always disappears..plus my d1ck usually gets wet while surfing.2 for 1 lol

 

i agree i will always most certainly choose surfing over sex.


unless i surfed alot recently and havent been laid in awhile

 

We got seals up the ying yang....and the great whites as well. I have never seen a GW, thank god, but I have encountered seals aplenty. Some seals too close for comfort (mine, not theirs).
Merry Christmas Seldom!!

 

friday had some fun ones


went snowboarding at blue mountain yesterday. 6 trails and 2 lifts open. it was nice getting my snowboard legs back... for now

 

O barry, Merry Christmas to you as well friend!

 

Not this week but two weeks ago-

Where: Southern Baja, at a few well known (and one not so well known) pacific side spots norte de SJD.

What: Clean and fun chest to head high beach and reef rights for a couple of days and then BOOM, overnight a new and big NW swell hits and it goes DOH on the sets which were probably about 10-12 minutes apart with 7-8 per.

How: Big for me (not Belmar big obviously but I surf OC so what do you want?) but manageable with the long period and lulls and the fact that the best wave was a right off a point and it was relatively easy to wait for your opportunity in the shadow/shelter of the point.

I managed only one wave in over an hour and a half that first day, taking a few on the head in the process of getting up the ballz to just go on one. But I did go (eventually) and it was a bomb. I wasn't fast enough off of the bottom turne and made it only about 50 yards before the sections in front of and behind closed and me blew me up in some kind of sick, wave based pincer maneuver. I got washed at least another 50 yards underwater / in the foam and finally was able to belly the next one into the beach. I spent the rest of the day in that sort of "post-fear but it wasn't that bad in reality you lived and it was fine I think I can't wait to do this again" bliss. It was just great.

Swell dropped in size the rest of the week but was still firing OH waves on the less frequent sets three days after it first showed up. We scored.

Add to that the 82 degree (clean! no weird staph infections on my leg or nasty ****e in my ears like you can get in CR) water, whales just outside of the line up, cheap and fresh local seafood, produce and beer and what else do you want? The only negative was that there were some of the invisible jellies that sting like hell for a minute but the worst part is that the itching later that day.

Great trippe by all counts.

 

2-4 footers this afternoon at the local jetty. mediocre a-framey conditions that were easy to take with the 60 air 55 water temps and sparse crowd.

 

Got a pre dark session in at a jetty. Chest hi on occasion it was fun to get wet and then a drone hit me in the back of the head and then when I surfaced I had a gun (it was a 7'6" Lightning Bolt) in my hand that I found on the bottom. Then it got dark and I went home.

There were a bunch of people on the beach all in white tee shirts in a group and my buddy asked me if they had just drank cool aid. Then when Danny got a good one Dougy yelled look look!! so they all looked and then we laughed at them. And then we laughed at Danny when he paddled back out. I did not make this up. We are ****s.