who here has been surfing this week?

Life is goode!!!

 

Went out this morning in LJ - No one else out. Must have been too dirty for everyone since it's been raining here.

O well, high tide chip shots into some bowly inside sections. Fun morning!

 

A underimpressive swell here today, but I went out anyways.
As usual, all the clowns were surfing crowded together, in crappy waves, each holding on to each others d icks. I surfed at a nice quiet place, by myself, one beautiful small wave after another.
So, where did all you f,ags surf today, with your boyfriends dlck in hand??
BWAHAHAHAHAHAHA!!??

 

nice chest sets in moco today faces pretty clean (not the water). water was way too warm for the 5/4 i had on. gotta love over heating in late december

 

thunder, lightning, showers, 70 degree weather, 3/2 water temps on Christmas Eve. Crazy winter, this one. Fun little waves on the incoming tide this afternoon

 

True, and better crazy warm than crazy cold like last year. Sessions are soooo much more pleasant without the harshness of winter.

 

o barry

 

Fun surfing this morning-- 78 degree water, 80 air! It's nuts, but what a delicious pleasure

 

Delicious?? Did you not have a breakfast??

 

Life is grande! Super foggy this morning. Waist to chest and clean. 3/2 no booties and was warm. Happy Hollow days.

 

Santa swell, 49 F water, 68 F air. couldnt see sh1t. cleaned up quite a bit as the tide started to pull out, weird swell direction here though, almost westernly at times. peaks were staggered, and kinda just popped out of the fog. fun stuff.

 

Surf today (12/26) is 6-8 INCHES.
There are actually morons out there "surfing" in and on their new xmas gifts.
They all think they are going to be like Kelly Slater.

 

Ha, it's a solid choppy 2-3 foot in New Jersey.

Take that New England.

 

Boxing Day afternoon surfing. Foggy, up to waist high, semi-choppy, but still nice to get out. Helped clear my head from the Christmas cheer the night before.
Only one other person out there. Half a dozen dolphins. Hardly a soul on the beach. They must've been at the malls or movie theaters.

 

I wasn't quite sure the meaning of "boxing Day. Here it is:
"Boxing Day is a holiday traditionally celebrated the weekday or Saturday following Christmas Day, when servants and tradesmen would receive gifts, known as a "Christmas box", from their masters, employers or customers, in the United Kingdom, The Bahamas, Barbados, Canada, Hong Kong, Australia, Bermuda, New Zealand, Kenya, South Africa, Guyana, Trinidad and Tobago, Jamaica and other former British colonies. Today, Boxing Day is the bank holiday or public holiday that generally takes place on 26 or 27 December."

 

Fun ones today. Waist to belly high with some chest to shoulder high sets. Offshore wind. Surfed the fish in the morning, and switched to the log when the size started to drop.

More impressively, I could not believe what I saw today: a guy out in NJ on December 27th, no boots or gloves. And he was fine. The water actually WARMED UP over the past week. Unbelievable.

 

Yesterday my wife and I planned on going to the beach, but it was raining and squally out of the southeast. So she dropped me off and chilled for a bit, and I walked down the beach in a blinding rainstorm, I was the only one on the beach, and it was very choppy, but damn, sweet freedom!

As I got to the jetty three local kids showed up out of the mist, two with shortboards and one with a SUP. I had my fish and the plan was to catch some reform near shore. The tide was full moon high and out going a bit, so it was bowly and makeable and fun. The SUPer was savvy and went outside and got a few jumbled foam rides and that was it. The water was warm and it was good being in the ocean, nice and quiet.

Today it was sunny and a bit bigger, maybe shoulder high on the peak, and a few of the usual suspects were out. Clean warm water, a good workout, a few decent waves. My buddy showed up from Jupiter out of the blue, but got all frustrated as the lineup is tight and the wave is hard to read, so he left and went back north. All in all a blessing to get a few random lumps with some buds. Life is good!

 

I went out this morning.a lot of places were really crowded,which is rare,but idk theres always empty waves.i got so drunk last night,still felt a little woozy in the am like I shouldn't be driving.anyway I check a my few usual spots,i had my brother with me since we had to go to the mall afterwards to return some gifts and he kept *****ying saying pic a spot already so I did one last detour in nomoco,lol last spot I found was like the roughest I seen on the coast today lol,there were some good head high a frame sets breaking probably 70yards from the beach,long paddle out,i don't like being out that far alone,but I had to go out.kind of looked like a jersey version of trestles,idk the past few weeks I been seeing better lefts than rights,and its usually always rights here in nomoco.i think that afternoon windswell was mixing in with this swell ,it was breaking a little funky like to different swells colliding at once,made for some good surf.my wetsuite held up nice together,i didn't wear a hood today since it was pretty nice early.wish I could've stayed out longer....and that's why I like going to the beach alone lol,hate being rushed

 

Ah what a nice little Christmas miracle Friday was..It was nothing to pray to worship Lucifer aboot

Paddled out in that dense fog..I didn't even know there was people in the water till I was outside

I was heavy on the flakka and "thought or fought" they were seals or lost sea cows

Yesterday had it's moments...the gym was bumpin' for a minute with the combo action

Man I don't know what all these dudes in 5 mill hooded mitts are gonna do if old man winter ever shows up

 

Two sessions yesterday - chest high and clean in the morning but the high tide was fatting things out a bit.

With sunny offshore conditions in the afternoon had to go surf the low tide session. Swell was down to waist high but man....just perfect shape...SO fun.. Couldn't believe this: guy paddled out on a longboard TRUNKING it and proceeded to surf for well over an hour and get a ton of waves. I talked to him in the lineup for a while and he actually was having a blast but said his feet and nuts were cold. I guess with 70 degree sunny weather, and mid-upper 50s water temps its not that far fetched. I know I was fine in a 3/2.