who here has been surfing this week?

I had to duck under to periodically to cool off in a 3/2. Was wishing I had brought a springer. 4 days of glassy waist to chest here. Little funky at times depending on how the wave and the backwash effected the break. Super foggy in the mornings was kinda surreal. Air was 80 and water must still be aboot 60. Back to the grind stone for a couple days.

 

Florida Military Surf Club heads out pretty much every morning in St Augustine if anyone is interested.

 

Scored some fun lil OCMD nugs on the last afternoon of 2015. Happy New Years Everyone!!

 

Looks good! I was out this morning, before the drive down to MD for bourbon and fireworks. What a fun session! Small 2-3's but lots of fun and a good 4 people crew out. Couldn't have asked for anything else today. Happy new year everybody!

 

Ah Mitchel we had a little something sumpin here this morning..faded quick it was

Oh I am not RR Martin neither..MIS needed to hear that

Happy New Years dawg

 

Got up early to find some lines coming in. Was hoping for a little more juice. A bit chilly (Air ~33-37), 3mm gloves not cutting it --time for an upgrade. A tad bumpy and off-shores were a bit stern, but ride-able & fun nonetheless. A good way to start 2016.

Happy New Year Swellers!

 

3 times in past week. Last Tues afternoon was best. Chest high. Was able to squeeze in times after work until almost dark. Air temps were in 70s, water in mid 50s. Cold fronts arriving.

 

Got some long waist high very long lefts on the longboard today. Tune up for the winter swell liners due to arrive any day now at overhead range just in time for massive work load. Flex schedule is key. It's on like donkey kong! Life is goode!!!

 

Jan 1 @ OCMD, first day of the new year, in the morning, before high tide swept in @ noon, mixed NE blah swell with SSE swell which changed to E swell & thus dumpy closeouts.

But hey, in the ocean, surfing, on the first day of 2016. Nothing but smiles.

 

I thought it was fun for a very small day...I was on a bar that was lining up both left and right. Thigh high max peelers.

 

Whoo-hoo! Scored twice! Saw the backs getting blown off from the top of my street yesterday afternoon and drove down to **w **t** to see what was up.

It was bombing! The long-period swell arrived early. Rising tide had a rare left-hander spalling off the sandbar outside the jetty. Haven't seen it like that since '06, but that's because I don't surf there much. It's kind of a mission to check, so there was only one other guy out for the afternoon surprise. Solid OH+ sets with sick takeoff right into the barrel. 3-4 seconds of tube time then a workable face on the good ones.

I hadn't been out in anything decent sized in a long time, so I paddled across from **u** *e**y like a pansy. Caught the first one dry-hair, got shacked, then sailed off the shoulder STILL dry haired! Awesome day at a usually sub-par spot.

The north side ***v** **r**d was bombing this morning in the typical spot right off the jetty. About the same size as yesterday afternoon, but that spot picks up more swell, so it's on the increase. Offshore and OH+ with some short barrel sections. Fun stuff!

Hope conditions hold for one more DP tomorrow before the storm hits.

 

tues afternoon in nj was pretty crazy.i went to the beach around 2 and it was still waiting to clean up,too much north in the wind,but shyt I havnt seen waves break so far out since hurricane bill at the inlet in 2009.i didn't paddle out,i was skerred lol.3 guys did paddle out,this one dude really knew wtf he was doing lol,he paddled out and the sideshore current probably took him,no joke,atleast 200 yards north,probably more,out like 300 yards all by himself.my cojones aint that big lol.i got some crazy pics but theyr on my digital camera,gotta figure out how to get em online.lol the shorebreak was a solid 6ft no joke

 

I'm happy I got to surf the last day of the year.forecast said it was like 2 ft but it was head high where I paddled out,perfectly groomed sandbars.i got to surf a lot over my Christmas vacation,it was pretty cool.i even went out on the small days and bodysurfed,wetsuites are amazing lol,it was warmer in the water than on land

 

Saturday, 1/2 in La Jolla - Had it to myself for 1.5 Hours before the next guy paddled out.
Sunday was the same but a few more people.

 

today was cold when i surfed. One of those frozen new england days that make you cough if you breathe in too deeply. The thermometer on my car said 13 degrees when i left my house but with the wind chill and couple inches of hard packed snow/ice around the beach i think it must have been in single digits.

The water wasnt bad though, and the waves were also pretty good. Only about waist high with some + sets but clean with icy offshore winds. Deceptively sunny. It was the perfect conditions to get myself back into the water after tearing up my mcl last month. After the first ride on my fish produced a familiar tweak in the right side of my knee, I decided to throw on the funky knee brace over my wetsuite, and eventually switched over to an oldschool 6 foot something retro board with a glassed on single fin shaped in 1970 (or maybe even 60) something.

The old school single fin was a halfway hand-me-down christmas present from my dad's old college roomate. I was given it 2 years ago but never got the chance (or ambition) to hop of my short board and try it. I can't remember a more mellow and enjoyable surf, then today when I was slowly gliding down the face on the old behemouth. I entirely respect the capabilities of singlefin surfboards now and the effortless glide they produce. While the local shredders out there on there shortboards were grovelling from rail to rail and throwing in a rushed maneuver or two before the wave shut down, I mellowly floated down the face standing in the prime spot towards the middle of the board, letting the fin drag and stall me out in some of the heavier sections, and the extra foam power me through the lazier sections.. Injuries suck, but im glad this one taught me to appreciate the art of the glide on some vintage equipment. Surfing a relic allowed me to glimpse into a totally different realm then the one modern surfing has become. In some ways its nice to take a break from the short-board/maneuver oriented perspective I developed growing up in modern times.

 

Dis tread has to be the best ever SI tread for stoke and longevity. Nice work peejay.

Great post tre. Making your dad's bros proud with the single fin with mad introspect. Good stuff.

 

Anybody surfing the west coast during this el nino 'event' that the weather media is frothing over? Spicoli, you out there...?

 

Ya bud, I'm full-time out here now. I've barely had time to surf with the whole transition lately but this week and next week, surfing is the priority it needs to be. Forecast looks grand for the next 10-14. It's not near hit or miss like many of my trips were out here the last couple winters. Seems if you hit most any break you are scoring. Look at the maps.

 

super jealous, if i had the opportunity to do my westcoast trip this fall i would have scored so hard. Oh well maybe the engine will still be running in the spring when i finally get out there and my knee is all healed up proper.

 

Not sure where you're at, but i would 100% give it a few days. The videos of the TJ River flowing with crap are...uninviting! We got buckets dumped yesterday.