Surfed this am. Was out before first light. One other guy Got a nice inside barrel on my first wave. Towards the end of the session another surfer came up to me and asked if I was the one that pulled into the barrel before the sun was up. Yup. Yup it was.
Yesterday was alright, some sets in the HH range early, kinda textured. But fun. Then the tide dropped and the bottom would drop out. Took one real good beating on a straight up and down closeout. I kinda liked it though, hadn't been worked like that in awhile. This am was pretty fun too. Maybe waist/stomach high. High tide was keeping things a bit fat but still had fun on the LB. Tide dropped a bit and things started to pick up a bit. Only me and 2 other regulars. Really beautiful morning also. Afterwards I had a banana, some granola, and more coffee
On the way to the beach I heard something sounding like water dripping on a hot surface. Tiss tiss tiss tiss tiss tiss. Turned up the radio just in time to hear " Generals gathered up their Masses". Now I'm all pumped and pull up to..... ankle high little peelers. Paddled out anyway and got an hour of those little guys riding them all the way to shore. Got back in the car to Crazy Train. Got home to chicken in mushroom sauce rice pilaf and broccoli. Not a bad way to end the day. Who else got some?
I know. Its pretty flat but,....anybody been surfing lately? Tell your story here. I had a dream last night that i was surfing a little yellow single fin pin tail. but i was inside, the water below me was hard wood floor, and the wave was like a chest high wall of solid white water. like it was made of foam. I was turning into it and ollieing up on the wall, getting the fin stuck in the foam and slicing out of it back onto the wood floor. I think it was in my house.
pretty sure you mean Sunday afternoon and yeah there were a few cracks of thunder and cloud to ground lightning strikes right before we paddled out, and the lineup was as empty as it gets for how fun it was! Still stoking on Sunday!
I got a surf in today. [email protected] seconds can produce something to ride buts it's fickle. You need to be at the right place at the right time and it will only be rideable for a little while. I thought it might work at certain spot and I was right. Knee high peelers you could get to the nose and back an even got a head dip. Even though we had snow flakes early, the wind was slack and the sun was out and I needed to take my hood off. Couple of people out hooting it up for like an hour and a half. On the way out saw a herd of deer. Came home to calamari and spaghetti. I'm feeling alright. Anybody else go surfing today?
You are a core dogg! It was flat down here the last couple days but looking forward to a weekend blast of NE Football Deflating Wind Chill to stir up some swell. Will report back. Been doing a bit of swimming yesterday to stay loose. Should be real good on Sunday.
Checked it this am hoping for a small little wave. Mid tide heading towards high, went to my go to small wave/high tide spot. Clean lines, looked fun...If it was breaking. Tide was to high, they were just kinda farting out. Did see one decent looking wave come through but only one. Decided to scope out some spots I don't usually go to, not really expecting to find a wave but just to see what's going on at the places I don't frequent. It was a nice morning, another beautiful sunrise. Even if I don't surf I like to start my days off at the beach on days like today
Yeah, its a good way to start the day for sure. Smoothes you out or something. The tidal swing has seems a little more drastic this week. It swamped the beach and marsh a little at high. With such a small swell, places you think might work at a certain tide but were completly flat when you looked could have been doing a little something an hr before or an hour after you looked at it. It might have took a little longer or shorter for the tide to hit the right spot. And if tide can make a waist high day can drop to knee high and rise to chest high it can make a knee high day rise to waist but also disappear to nothing. Cool stuff.
Like someone flipped a switch around 3 this afternoon, so fun, not too cold and surprisingly light wind. Took a few beatings as the tide dropped out, including one that blew my hood off. The worst part was knowing the hood was full of water and having to pull it back on.
Nice! I was tempted, but after my last low tide bonanza, I figured I'd wait for tomorrow. Good on you dudes for gettin out, always nice to surf with snow on the beach!
Southern NC had a wave. THink I pulled 5 hrs yesterday. it was head high in the morning, hitting an inside sandbar and jacking up. made a few, took a few. Good afternoon cleanup seshh, little round tubes, made a few of those and was super stoked. I just woke up after sleeping for a solid 10 hrs. body isn't that sore, just my neck from wearing a hood all day
Surfed for about an hour and a half and got 2 decent waves. Sometimes you get 'em, sometimes you don't. RadBrad got the wave of the day...
