Who likes wiping out?

yeah I really love it especially when you bumb your head on the bottom... but I do agree that it makes you apprechaite the power of ocean

 

look forward to it, hate it, etc...

 

i don't mind as long as my board doesn't get messed up and i don't lose it. i surf longboard with no leash

 

I love when my board hits me right in the noggin...I am now the owner of a sweet harry potter scar. Thank you Kyle.

 

I did the same thing haha. It is funny as helll when you get to the surface

 

its so much fun taking a nice fall as long as your not in shallow water and crash you head on the bottom

 

if the waves are good but I am having trouble surfing, I'll go sit inside and just take off on closeout and get beat until I get my head on straight.

 

yeah sometimes wiping out is fun but on some days its not fun. but getting barreled is way better.

 

yeah getting barreled is so knarly and so real and i love thr it and wiping out is t so fun but hey what can we do about it and why not just take it snd suck it up and sometimes i like to think about mc hammer when i wipe out and it makes me calm and i live the way he says stop hammer time and when i wipe out i think stop hammer time and i have a chuckle to myself like leadzepefreek said and its so fun especially at crystal where a the good waves barrel.

 

I like going over the falls on bigger days on purpose. Its fun sometimes

 

There was a swell about 3 or 4 weeks ago paddled out caught a nice first wave just carving up; and down and pulled out in front just before it closed out. I felt that I was in the wight wash so I laid back to just bail out to go back out. Just as I laid back the wave caught up to me, wipped my head forward, cracked my neck and back. I knew it was going to hurt later on. A guy on the beach actually hear my bones poppin. I hurting for about a week ppritty bad and sore for another. Now I am good to go waiting for a good swell to come in. Been pritty bored!

 

i remember once i wiped out on a bigger swell we once had got the late drop and nose dug into the water for some strange reason and i went head over heels it was funny but hurt pretty bad. some guy on the beach that was taking pictures got a pic of that and i have it sitting in my room framed and everything. But i hate it when your in the barrel and it closes out on you thats fun sometimes until you get the saltwater in your mouth and cant get rid of it for the rest of the surf session.