Today was a nice gift. Conflicting reports of wind, waves, and weather. I woke up early to check the cams, and there was nothing but thick fog for over an hour. Went back to bed, got up later and started doing errands. I peep the cam again, and wow, there are some decent little lines coming through, and the wind has held off a bit. Begin kicking myself for not going early. Ate a piece of fruit and ran out of the house. Arrived at the super secret break to find consistent waist high windswell, fun, but choppy. Stayed out a couple of hours, and the onshore picked up, but it started breaking better with the tide. Thunderstorm rolls in, and everyone is long gone. I took one in, thinking I'd leave too. Storm stays just onshore, and the wind goes strong offshore! I paddle back out, and it turns to grey-orange glass, and the sun comes out. It's good to be alive. Here's a pic that doesn't do it justice (snapped it before paddling back out). If you know this super secret spot, keep it to yourself. Hope everyone scores some surprise fun this weekend.
I had a fun knee-waist grovel sesh today. It was clean, the water was clean, and there were dolphins. It was a beautiful day with sun and clouds but no rain here. I think the water may have reached 50 degrees too.
got some, yes...but it was way more choppy up here with no lines - BUT - a few did come through here and there (although they'd jack up and mush out). but still, first time out in a week and a half, so not complaining with the 2 decent rides i got in an hour or so....
spot between v-land and sunset was chest to overhead and glassy till about 10am, trunks, turtles and bikinis. You asked, I normally dont brag
As far as today goes: nada, nicht. But I've had a couple surprise sessions in the past few weeks when everything said flat. Even web cams didn't show anything promising. So I head to the beach anyway for what figured to be a paddle session, and surprise!...glassy with thigh high sets and an occasional waist high rolling in. I was able to take advantage of maybe a 1 1/2 hour window of opportunity until the incoming tide got on it. Thigh to waist high may not sound like much, but with this continuing flat spell, I'll take what I can get.
I surfed through that storm as well. 2nd time in my life I've watched from my board as a front passed over head. Witnessed pretty much every type of rain Forrest Gump describes, and watched the wind completely turn 180. There was a 30 minute offshore window, not even enough time to change into a suit and get into the water. But i was already in the lineup, and with no one else around, my buddy and I were laughing like lunatics.
zagaffer, sorry homes, I wont ever post a session report again. I will answer your question and be done with it..water is pushing 78-80? refreshing at first and then perfect. it took me 12 minutes to drive to said spot from my abode. I am the luckiest guy I know who has to work for a living glad others scored too!
Slashdog, is that really you or did you have guests over this evening and someone jumped on your comp and posted on your behalf? Because this the OP was not your brand at all and reeks of the typical Facebook hijacking I see from some buds. Maybe it was you talking about the day as a gift and the piece of fruit and skipping out of the house. I'm all for it bro, I like positivity, just had 0% aggro in that post so I call shenanigans knowing your usual steeze. Thanks for caring though bro. As for my day, it was similar to yours. Planned to charge late morning but the report was up and down like an EKG and period waned to 5s til the afternoon. Hit the break about 5 and stayed out for an hour or so. Got maybe 8 rides on the 7'6 (gotta ride that more) and honestly, it was a productive session because I was focused on pumping to get through to the next section if it even had one. My best ride was probably the one where I squeezed out 10+ seconds on the most gutless knee-thigh (you like that descript spogner42?) wave ever, to the point where the next section was almost not even breaking but still got in it. Hadn't been on a wave in 14 days and this got me stoked but it was more like needing a drink and being served Johnny Black than Green or Gold. Still good. Oh and thought of SI when I caught a ride and one of the two FOGs out there at the time says something and while I'm paddling back out I say "what was that?" just for clarification and he replies "how you doing?" I give him a "Good, thanks. You?" Appreciated him going out of his way from a 30 yard distance to hollar at me and instantly laughed because it epitomized the good part of that tread the other day bout the hollaring in the lineups. No swell to speak or think of tomorrow but no prob because it's nearly pushing 70 right now and I'm gonna sleep on the living room couch with the door open listening to ankle-biters break like most summer nights. Get some rest then put in some QT with momma dukes and the sis for Mother's Day (shout out to all those MILF dimes - stay smoking) then host a wahine I socially networked with later on in the afternoon/evening because it's 75 and sunny tomorrow on this part of the EC. Even though I'm not sure if I believe that he really thinks so, Slashdog is right - it is good to be alive. Broseffy, do you normally charge with bridal parties? 30 minutes to get in the wetty and into the drink? Give me a 7/6 to throw on January 3rd in 6F air and 39F water with 38mph onshores and I'm paddling within 8 minutes tops. That's if I'm dragging azz that day and didn't use one skip stride into the water. Dose Ex - Heard that on all fronts. Spicoli used to charge every hour and lo and behold, sets would roll in. Problem is now (and I realized this today) that my standards for a wave worth charging have gone way up and 1-footers won't get me out there since I'd have no window for progression and pushing limits is what really stokes me. However, I do still subscribe to the "if you stay out there long enough you'll eventually find something" belief and need to hit the break more than I have in recent days when the radar says FLAT. Bro, no bragging assumed. Slash did ask and we were pleased to hear. Not jealous, but happy for you. Gaff I know you meant that in jest as IB sits at a balmy 63F in the aqueous form. Wouldn't that make the knee feel better? Good for you if the swelling is gone because that's an issue in itself. When's that SS supposed to hit? I heard about it a week ago and already wishing I was headed there. You won't bring one of those dolphins home Dougie. You won't. What'd you think about for the remaining 59 minutes and 38 seconds? metard wants to know and is willing to discuss.
checked the cam then hit the pool. swimming doesn't seem to help much my surfing but it makes me less fat.
Logged it for an hour or two yesterday. A few lined up nicely, but mostly it was a peak and a shoulder. Think I'll be putting away the 4/3 at this point.
Yesterday was fun, I surfed early in the crazy fog. Could barley see the shore. Winds were onshore and the waves were a bit crumbly but the right ones peeled nicely. Conditions weren't great but I was out for 2 hours with 1 other guy who was pretty cool. Today was a bit better, maybe a bit bigger. Similar type of conditions though. I don't care I was happy to surf. Today especially, I caught a whole hell of alot of fun ones. Alone, two guys paddled out hooting and hollering on the way out, which is all good, but then they left after about 20-30 minutes tops. Strange, but I wasn't complaining.
Checked it early before work, too foggy and small up here. Heard it got good towards the afternoon/evening. Went out this morning, even got into the 3/2 and wasnt freezing for about an hour with some thigh-waist sets rolling through.
Oh yeah, some dude paddled out bare-back yesterday, lol. The water was in the low 50's. He didn't last long before he turned purple and got out. I was concerned that I would have to drag him out myself due to muscle failure. I saw someone try to swim in trunks this morning too. It was a quick dip. People think because the air is 70 it's open season, and quickly realize it's way too cold for bare skin. Ding dongs.
^^^^ I have no idea why but that stuff annoys the hell out of me. People are idiots. Last year, around this time of year, spring, I'm sitting in a bar and this girl is talking to her friends. I over hear her say "it's so weird, likes it's not winter anymore it's getting nice out, but it's not summer yet". No sh!t it's called spring.
waves were good yesterday,it was one of those one for an hour kinda sessions.i was surprised how uncrowded it was it this particular super crowded spot I normally don't go to but decided so and it was super.i wouldn't go as far as a 3/2 yet water is still freezing,in the upper 40s last time I checked.4/3 boots n gloves worked perfect.hopefully we get more surprise mini swells this spring
I got a little bit yesterday/ Saturday after work. Waist hi choppyish lines, few fun ones. Best part was my 5 year old daughter saw me catch a nice one and said she'd like to get out there next time. Hey don't none of youse guys have moms?
