This is too ridiculous to be made up. Did you say anything to him? That sounds pretty unreal, I would have been stoked!
Nice chest to head high lines, sunny and light offshores. But most important was the friendly vibe in the water. Plenty of stoke to go around. Makes me happy to be alive... and a surfer.
glad to hear ya'll scored, wish i could have. So jammed up with work, been working 12 hour days all week... Has anybody checked out the North Shore cams this week...i want to buy a one way ticket so freakin bad!
That is awesome. Not only am I jealous of this story, I am jealous of all of you that scored the last couple of days. Doesn't get much better than clean chest high fall surf and light crowds. I could tell there was something nice rolling through while on the ferry Wednesday.
Getting on the ferry early in the morning with swell in the water is probably one of the most depressing feelings ever... I missed it too. This whole "work" thing is a real *****
Amen to that. Although was out of work for a while a couple of years ago which also is a real *****. Just gotta pray for a weekend swell.
I got some fun little waves in VB. I didnt get on it until after work on Weds but i got some of the same, waist to stomach peaks. I was on it at dead high and was fun til around 6, once the tide starting going out hard the backwash was sort of closing everything out. I was still sotoked to get a few waves on my new winter shortboard, and paddling out wearing a new excel 2/2 short sleeve chest zip suit. I freaking love short sleeve fulls, I would rather have one of those on that boardshorts and a wetsuit jacket. Water still right at 70 air in the 60s, a few fun waves and a little peak just sotuh of the pier practically to myself. It was enjoyable especially since waves are few and far between for me lately.
