In Waterbaby's thread? Don't be shy, claim it here. I wanna here your stories, there's gotta be some good 'uns...
no. got some PA Dutch blood tho and grew up around them with my grandpa's cigar business. Not a big fan of them.
I figured a lot of people would vote over their level...mentally, mixing what they actually are with what they'd like to be. Comments like "I'm advanced, but still working on my backside cutback" or "I can stay out for X amount of hours" bring some clarity.
Just for the record...this was not meant to be inflammatory or anything like that...just curiosity honestly, and a place for the brave souls to claim their status. I hear ya WB...and it's funny, bc I'm the type to always downplay my abilities...not sell myself short, but I avoid complacency like the plague. Never stop progressing, never relax...until irie time of course.
I'm sure very few will own it because they don't want to get torched by the nay sayers and jelous ones but i'm curious who is an expert too. More power to them if it's true.
I cant really describe how I surf cause some tool will jump all down my throat. I did not choose expert. here is my experience in a nutshell Ive surfed for 2.5 decades, on multiple continents and island chains, whole EC south of the hook, whole WC south of Astoria, surfed hollow waves, mushy waves, soft sectiony waves, and throaty screamers from knee hi to 4-5x oh I have surfed shortboards, disc-type things, longboards (performance and old school noseriders), surf mats, handplanes, fun shapes, fat fish, and big waves guns. I even rode a bodyboard when I was a child. I have most fun in a head to just about double overhead (depending on spot) hollow waves. I prefer a channel to avoid clean ups and save my strength for wave entry paddling as opposed to getting to the lineup I like the tube, dont care if I am on a handplane or standing tall. I also like putting it on rail when I can, it feels good. I love variety and some size, but I will surf knee hi dribblers for a fix I love it all, brown, blue, clear and smooth or foamy and frothy, whatever. I do not press myself if I am not feeling it. its about fun, not validation or ranking
No hate here DP. I have no problem giving props when props are due, regardless of discipline. I'm a secure man. An American man.