Why do you surf

Discussion in 'All Discussions' started by Paddington Jetty Bear, Sep 25, 2013.

Page 2 of 5
  1. Sep 25, 2013 #21
    KillaKiel

    KillaKiel Well-Known Member

    840
    Feb 21, 2012
    Haha its funny that you mention that. If I am wrong about the specific home I know it was the one on the corner a couple of years back. The guy staying there was at SandBar one night just buying everyone in earshot (like 10 people) drinks. Said he had just moved to town and was looking for a place to live. My buddy runs his mouth to him that I have an empty room at my place. Dude thinks he has me hooked and talks about how he is gonna throw around all this money and living with him would be dope, he's from SC, etc. I politely decline.

    Fast forward 1 week later...

    I'm smashed and drinkin a 40 on the corner since I'm wise like that and my buddy says dudeman lives right there, lets see what he is up to. He is of course referring to the dudeman mentioned above, we'll call him Patrice. Well Patrice's house from the front porch wreaked of crack (literally smelled the hell out of it). I don't see Patrice's truck any more so I assume he either

    1. Sold it for some stones
    2. moved like he said he would
    3. Had a heart attack
    4. Currently behind bars
    5. Misplaced truck

    The haphazard parking there with the accompanying smell was quite complimentary.
     
    KillaKiel, Sep 25, 2013
    KillaKiel, Sep 25, 2013
  3. Sep 25, 2013 #22
    DawnPatrol321

    DawnPatrol321 Well-Known Member

    17,845
    Mar 6, 2012
    I surf because...

    It's my sanctuary and is the closest I can get to God while on earth.

    I always come out of the water a better person (at least in my mind).

    I mold my mind, body, and spirit with the salt water, waves, sand, wind, sun, and the forces of nature.

    When I enter the ocean I'm just another animal in the kingdom, interacting with them in their domain, leaving myself vulnerable to natural selection in the food chain.

    It puts life in perspective, it shows me how insignificant I really am to the world and the magnitude of it all.

    It's the one place I can go and truly have solitude and time for reflection.

    It's like a best friend, always there for you when you need it, and never is too busy for you.

    I have more fun surfing than doing anything else I can do by myself, (yes even that too)

    I love the chase, the surprises, the uncertainty, the JOURNEY.

    I can challenge myself doing something few are able or willing to do

    I love paddling out all alone when hardly anybody or anything is awake and watching the sun rise from the depths of the ocean to the height of the sky, signifying a new day, a fresh beginning, another chance to change it all...
     
    DawnPatrol321, Sep 25, 2013
    DawnPatrol321, Sep 25, 2013

  5. Sep 25, 2013 #23
    Paddington Jetty Bear

    Paddington Jetty Bear Well-Known Member

    1,510
    Apr 23, 2013
    Jesus Christ.........I post this...... step away to watch black guys kill other black guys on A&E's The First 48 and there's like 3 pages already. Actually, one of the cases was a whitey murking a Mexican in North Carolina....YAY, Erock !!!

    Next thread I'm going to ax what your favorite foods are.....maybe what your favorite movie be.
     
    Paddington Jetty Bear, Sep 25, 2013
    Paddington Jetty Bear, Sep 25, 2013
  6. Sep 25, 2013 #24
    Paddington Jetty Bear

    Paddington Jetty Bear Well-Known Member

    1,510
    Apr 23, 2013
    Ok here's a test:

    You arrive at the beach. It's 2-3 foot. It's fun. There's waves as far as the eye can see(up and down the beach). One peak seems a tad more consistent, and a LITTLE bit bigger here and there. There's 30 dudes within a twenty-thirty yard area(on that peak). Do you:

    A. Join the pack
    B. Go down the beach to an empty peak

    Your friends from work scheduled a mountain biking excursion. You said you'd go two weeks ago. As the day approaches, the bubs are setting up to be classic. The bike riding day is going to be head high, from a non-tropical groundswell well off the coast. The winds are going to be dead to 5 mph West. Do you:

    A. Keep your bike riding date
    B. Tell the fellows from work to suck it....you're going surfing

    You live in Bayhead, NJ and it's good - knee high and offshore(that's for you, Fitz). All of sudden here comes Rob Kelly, Andrew Gessler, some other South Jersey F@GS, and a photogrpaher, maybe Seth Stafford. Do you:

    A. Smile and kiss their arses.
    B. Throw them a vibe and threaten prison sodomy

    It's a cold winter day. The waves are 4-6 foot and a little choppy. It's grey and moody. No ones out. No one's on the beach. You are spooked. Do you:

    A. Search for a spot where someone else is........try Ocean City
    B. Shine it all, go home and watch Teen Mom 3
    C. Suck it up, put your fears aside and paddle out. It builds character. You'll feel much better even if you only catch one wave.
     
    Paddington Jetty Bear, Sep 25, 2013
    Paddington Jetty Bear, Sep 25, 2013
  7. Sep 25, 2013 #25
    Paddington Jetty Bear

    Paddington Jetty Bear Well-Known Member

    1,510
    Apr 23, 2013
    Wow, that must have been alot of crack smoking going down.....tell-tale crack smell is gone in a few seconds......Swoosh, just like that and it's gone. Ahhhhh I love the smell of ready rock in the morning........

    757 Surfer, sorry aboot your misfortunes. Just keep going and things will work out. Stay away from 24th St. Drugs stop working after awhile and they just add more problems to your load. Just remember what Nancy Regan said.

    Lee/Killa.......where's this dude's house at?

    I love you guys......each and everyone of youse.
     
    Paddington Jetty Bear, Sep 25, 2013
    Paddington Jetty Bear, Sep 25, 2013
  8. Sep 25, 2013 #26
    Mvsurfer

    Mvsurfer Well-Known Member

    113
    Aug 27, 2013
    Nothing worse than the tourist crowd out at mv during the summer. During the winter you almost have the place to yourself though. Almost an erie feeling, but a lot better than 5 year olds getting in your way
     
    Mvsurfer, Sep 25, 2013
    Mvsurfer, Sep 25, 2013
  9. Sep 25, 2013 #27
    aka pumpmaster

    aka pumpmaster Well-Known Member

    5,487
    Apr 30, 2008
    B B B C good questions
     
    aka pumpmaster, Sep 25, 2013
    aka pumpmaster, Sep 25, 2013
  10. Sep 25, 2013 #28
    252surfer

    252surfer Well-Known Member

    1,280
    Dec 1, 2010
    haha dont worry. i dont use drugs and the farthest north ill go on a friday night is lunasea. dont get any better than lunasea

    o. and B B A C. Ive done all of the above except kiss ass and try to get pictures. Id like at least one good picture of me surfing haha
     
    252surfer, Sep 25, 2013
    252surfer, Sep 25, 2013
  11. Sep 25, 2013 #29
    ChavezyChavez

    ChavezyChavez Well-Known Member

    2,613
    Jun 20, 2011
    Surfing calms me. Keeps me from killing all the f@cking sheeple I come across every friggin day
     
    ChavezyChavez, Sep 25, 2013
    ChavezyChavez, Sep 25, 2013
  12. Sep 25, 2013 #30
    Anthonyz

    Anthonyz Well-Known Member

    63
    May 15, 2012
    I'm still working on talking to seagulls
     
    Anthonyz, Sep 25, 2013
    Anthonyz, Sep 25, 2013
  13. Sep 25, 2013 #31
    fl.surfdog

    fl.surfdog Well-Known Member

    5,513
    Dec 6, 2010
    You all know that gut feeling of...F**ck yea!!!! I made that huge drop, bottom turn and into the green room, fist pump and hoping somebody saw that...lol
     
    fl.surfdog, Sep 25, 2013
    fl.surfdog, Sep 25, 2013
  14. Sep 25, 2013 #32
    cepriano

    cepriano Well-Known Member

    4,626
    Apr 20, 2012
    i dropped out of hs and its the only job I could find
     
    cepriano, Sep 25, 2013
    cepriano, Sep 25, 2013
  15. Sep 25, 2013 #33
    waterbaby

    waterbaby Well-Known Member

    1,461
    Oct 1, 2012
    no matter how small the waves are or how cruddy the conditions are, as long as just I get some "long" rides with a few banging turns and off the lips, I'm stoked for days.

    It's really kinda ridiculous, considering the average wave is less than 10 seconds long. "Only a surfer knows the feeling" is so dead-on.
     
    waterbaby, Sep 25, 2013
    waterbaby, Sep 25, 2013
  16. Sep 25, 2013 #34
    rcarter

    rcarter Well-Known Member

    4,222
    Jul 26, 2009
    I surf because I ran out of money for hookers.
     
    rcarter, Sep 25, 2013
    rcarter, Sep 25, 2013
  17. Sep 25, 2013 #35
    Kahuna Kai

    Kahuna Kai Well-Known Member

    1,022
    Dec 13, 2010
    I surf to celebrate the joys in life and to mourn the losses. I do it to stay in shape. I agree with the post above. I just love the cold empty big messy winter swells. And yes I surf alone even when it's big and gnarly. I talk to myself, the dolphins and the birds. Sometimes I don't talk to anyone at all. **** it. I just love this game. I changed my life for it, choose jobs based on being able to surf. I'm addicted and I don't mind admitting it either.
     
    Kahuna Kai, Sep 25, 2013
    Kahuna Kai, Sep 25, 2013
  18. Sep 25, 2013 #36
    sonfollowerssurf

    sonfollowerssurf Well-Known Member

    227
    Oct 9, 2012
    My kids do it, it is part of my job, and it is a great place to tell people JESUS.
     
    sonfollowerssurf, Sep 25, 2013
    sonfollowerssurf, Sep 25, 2013
  19. Sep 25, 2013 #37
    Sandblasters

    Sandblasters Well-Known Member

    4,668
    May 4, 2013
    i surf because the ocean is my life with out it i would have no purpose and surfing brings me closer to her.
     
    Sandblasters, Sep 25, 2013
    Sandblasters, Sep 25, 2013
  20. Sep 25, 2013 #38
    cjtst11

    cjtst11 Well-Known Member

    126
    Sep 1, 2010
    I surf to see the moon set, the sun rise and the opposite.
    I surf for sloppy 2ft mush and peeling 3ft offshore perfection. Sometimes I get lucky in head high or bigger real waves.
    I surf to get salt water pounded in my sinuses or me pounded into the sandy bottom, often both.
    I surf for the quiet time to myself or to share the all around true happiness of a real east coast groundswell.
    I surf because it is the hardest single thing I've ever done and the best.
    I surf for the quiet satisfaction of a well executed cutback knowing that 99% of my friends and coworkers have no idea what I mean when I talk about it.
    I surf because it is fun.
    I surf because it is real.
    I surf for the visceral connection that it forces me to have with the natural world. Winds, tides, waves will never look the same once you start down the path.
    I surf for the journey; I can't see an end it to. I learn something each and every session.
    I surf for me.
     
    cjtst11, Sep 25, 2013
    cjtst11, Sep 25, 2013
  21. Sep 25, 2013 #39
    Mr.Belmar

    Mr.Belmar Well-Known Member

    3,824
    Aug 19, 2010
    apocalypse now - you know the movie... lance Carson or is it johnson... Idk

    When lance steals kilgores board- Kilgore says, "I will not hurt or harm you. Just give me back the board, Lance. It was a good board... and I like it. You know how hard it is to find a board you like."
     
    Mr.Belmar, Sep 25, 2013
    Mr.Belmar, Sep 25, 2013
  22. Sep 26, 2013 #40
    vbslophopper

    vbslophopper Member

    9
    Oct 31, 2012
    Because that's what you do on the internet.
     
    vbslophopper, Sep 26, 2013
    vbslophopper, Sep 26, 2013
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